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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jul 23, 2017 12:01:43 GMT -5
In 10,000 miles you had to at least replace the variator and probably the belt. oh, i had to replace more than that, and i had to put a lot of labor into that scoot. i replaced the intake manifold at least 3 times. my pontiac montana has 232,000+ miles on it, i just replaced the OEM alternator a couple months ago. the oil is still an amber color when i do the scheduled oil changes, something i'm totally amazed at. i probably could have gotten at least 100,000 on my OEM clutch shoes, and i'm talking about a chinese ride. i don't see how a variator can operate without rollers (or "sliders"), although it seems we could use a "gear" type of roller to reduce wear. one of the redeeming qualities of the variator is its simplicity. making the variator more robust would mean increasing its complexity. the twist and go design is probably as simple as you can get and still be effective. i doubt if i'll ever own a "real" motorcycle, although i drool whenever i see one. it seems servicing a manual gearbox on a bike would be a real PITA compared to the variator/slip clutch design. but yeah, it's 2017, and we have the ability to machine parts to much closer tolerances than before. break in procedures are practically unheard of with todays automobile engines |
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jul 22, 2017 17:53:58 GMT -5
I've read, seen the evidence and heard the chatter. Most, if not all, scooters have much shorter life expectancy than even the cheapest motorcycle. Scooters are not cheap to maintain and need a lot to stay alive. i can't say much about longevity, but my scooter was relatively cheap to maintain dollar wise. but then again i'm beginning to wonder if i actually had a rebranded genuine honda engine. the only things i did to the engine was installed an iridium plug and adjusted the valves. the clutch shoes showed hardly any wear in 10,000 miles. i replaced the variator twice, once because of my screwup. the OEM rollers were garbage which destroyed the variator innards. i would definitely get another like it if i could. all in all, it was a pretty economical ride, everything i know about scooters i learned from it. |
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jul 17, 2017 18:39:16 GMT -5
well, in any event, an honest 300cc scooter (not some 257), sounds pretty good.
personally, it would probably be all the engine i would ever need.
the price is pretty decent too.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jul 11, 2017 17:48:32 GMT -5
worn valve guides will cause the engine to burn oil as will defective piston rings.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jul 9, 2017 20:10:42 GMT -5
these scooters are pretty simple in design.
i could service my entire bike with a 2 handfulls of tools (probably weighed 4 or 5 pounds)
things you need to be aware of are these are aluminum engines, CVT/ final drive.
both my wheels required a spacer, and it matters which way it goes back on.
my 244 had an external oil line and the bolts that hold it on MUST go back into the same hole.
these are the bolts on the head and stator casing.
when i changed my oil i did it thru the fill port, tipped the bike over enough to drain the oil.
i didn't want to break loose the drain plug because it was underneath the engine.
always check your lights and wear your gear.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jul 9, 2017 0:09:40 GMT -5
this is one of the reasons you check your bike, and check it often.
preferably before every ride.
i always checked my oil and water.
i usually checked my lights.
stay safe and be seen.
now that i mostly drive a cage i find myself specifically looking for bikes, because i'm now aware how they can be hidden in traffic.
this is the kind of thing drivers ed classes needs to stress.
yeah, i know, i talk too much.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jul 8, 2017 14:01:38 GMT -5
brake switches are located on the master cylinder.
check out the lever near the pivot bolt for the exact location.
the switch should show continuity when pressing the switch (squeezing the lever.)
these switches are wired in parallel, meaning both would have to fail before you would have no brake lights.
also remember, you gotta squeeze the brakes to start the bike.
i agree with rocky, an unplugged cluster is probably the fault.
you would have no lights at all back there, tail or brake.
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The fall
by: dollartwentyfive - Jul 5, 2017 21:29:28 GMT -5
Post by dollartwentyfive on Jul 5, 2017 21:29:28 GMT -5
CVT rattle:
make sure the CVT cover bolts are secure.
i'm not sure if a flip roller would cause a rattle, but check those too.
check the heat shield between the variator and the engine.
one of the mounting holes on mine broke and allowed the shield to contact the variator.
the ramp plate guides could be broken.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jul 1, 2017 20:54:34 GMT -5
i have to agree with everybody else.
get a 250, preferably something closer to 300.
my 250 could cruise all day long at around 70mph.
i found increasing my roller weight to 120 grams (total) gave me better acceleration at top end, off the line acceleration sucked though.
yes, you probably can mod your 150 to get a pretty good top end, but remember that you are still on a 150 frame, with 150 brakes.
you need to make sure your frame was designed for the speeds you are going to go.
believe it or not, we were all noobs at one time or another.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jun 29, 2017 13:25:52 GMT -5
you would almost certainly have to relocate the brake caliper.
this means you need to weld a mount for it.
this will not be as easy as you think, because the caliper must ride parallel to the rotor and be positioned so both pads contact the rotor at the same time.
also, you need to be sure the clearance accounts for the tire mounted on the wheel.
you might have the clearance for the wheel, but when you mount the tire, it won't fit.
also, it's likely the axle bolt won't fit, and on some scoots you need spacers and these would probably need changed too.
since it's a modified design, these parts might not be available unless you happen to find a set that matched what you need.
you will also need to account for shock compression.
personally i would have both front and back within an inch diameter of one another.
this would mean relocating the front caliper too, that is if the front wheel could be increased (making for front shock compression)
as for affecting the stability of your ride, i wouldn't know.
i do know i wouldn't be screwing around with the steering head bearings.
scooter oscillations are a deadly thing.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jun 27, 2017 22:20:21 GMT -5
when a fuse blows, it's all or nothing, it doesn't "sometime work".
my 250 only had one fuse, and when it blew it removed all power, no lights, horn, signals, nothing.
electrical problems can be a real bear to diagnose, especially intermittents, like you are experiencing.
my guess is one of the many connectors is at fault, or you might have a frayed wire that is intermittently grounding, but not enough to blow any fuses.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jun 24, 2017 17:45:03 GMT -5
kat, odd, that. even with completely bald tires, you shouldn't have slid off the road, IF you were going slow enough to make the turn. but then again i haven't dealt with a horribly misaligned front end either. the only reason for tread is to help prevent hydroplaning. race car tires do not have tread, and traction is a MAJOR requirement in this application. I'm thinking w650 is right and they were just hard no-tractioned. Like I said, they could've been sun-baking for a while behind the shop. >'Kat there is definitely differences between tires. i noticed this with bicycle tires. i swear, some seem to "roll easier" than others. you don't notice this with cycle and auto tires because you aren't the one applying the power, the engine is. as for hardness, all of my scoot tires seem pretty well able to handle my style of riding, and i've had a few people tell me i was going to ditch my ride. there seemed to be a fire where ever i was going. all of them were chinese to my knowledge. |
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Cvt help
by: dollartwentyfive - Jun 23, 2017 17:02:26 GMT -5
Post by dollartwentyfive on Jun 23, 2017 17:02:26 GMT -5
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jun 23, 2017 9:32:48 GMT -5
8,000 miles from a ten inch tire? I have 6,000 on my 150cc rear tire right now and and it's bald. My best mileage on a scooter rear tire was from a $70 Bridgestone ML-16 on the Fashion @ 6,300. Tires today suck. My OEM tire on my 1979 Kawasaki went 19,000 and I regularly got 14,000 from a rear tire no matter the brand. Fronts lasted 35,000 usually. NOT TODAY! My bikes blow through rears in 8,000 and fronts at 12,000. My 2000 W650 used the rear OEM by 6,000 and the front at 8,000. I ride like an old lady and the temperatures here rarely exceed  ninety degrees. BTW. My front 10 inch tire on the 150cc is nine years old, has 9,700 and looks just fine. The rear OEM only lasted 3,000. Maybe the front has age hardened but it's not dry rotting. I'll keep it on there until it balds out in another 10 years or so. If I have to plug it, well so be it. wow. i never measured my tire mileage, but my guess is my scoots rear tires lasted about 3,000 miles, and the front about 6,000 it's very rough estimate though. i replaced my rear tire 3 times and the front once in 10,000 miles. |
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jun 23, 2017 9:26:59 GMT -5
kat,
odd, that.
even with completely bald tires, you shouldn't have slid off the road, IF you were going slow enough to make the turn.
but then again i haven't dealt with a horribly misaligned front end either.
the only reason for tread is to help prevent hydroplaning.
race car tires do not have tread, and traction is a MAJOR requirement in this application.
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