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Posts: 25 
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Joined: Jan 25, 2017 14:53:18 GMT -5
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Post by sirtokesalot on May 23, 2017 15:24:01 GMT -5
i have a gy6 vip scooter that might be a 2011 but unsure as it was built out of like 4 bad scooters but it does have the gy6 engine in it. i have an 80cc kit racing cam new carb pod filter 5 gram sliders new fuel filter and pair system removed. the scooter runs very well once warm runs fast accelerates good idles nice but when the engine is cold and you try to start it it wont kick over and requires a few minutes of ither pushing the electric start witch i know is not good for the starter or what i have been doing is kick starting it. i have to stand there kicking it over for a couple min it will start to at first sputter then a few kicks after the sputtering starts it will fire up but wont rev unless i allow it to run about 30 seconds first. if i try to rev it before that time it will stall back out.
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Post by cyborg55 on May 23, 2017 19:34:19 GMT -5
Sounds like the auto choke isn't working,,,
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Post by toddmaples on May 24, 2017 2:03:54 GMT -5
Sounds like the auto choke isn't working,,, Agree, autochoke is most likely culprit. |
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New Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Joined: Jan 25, 2017 14:53:18 GMT -5
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Post by sirtokesalot on May 24, 2017 11:30:52 GMT -5
how likely is it that the new autochoke that was on the new carb is bad though it is brand new only been on the bike maby 3 months and only been ridden about 100 miles its prety much been that way since it was installed.
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Post by toddmaples on May 24, 2017 16:15:52 GMT -5
how likely is it that the new autochoke that was on the new carb is bad though it is brand new only been on the bike maby 3 months and only been ridden about 100 miles its prety much been that way since it was installed. Still got the autochoke from the old carb? Two screws, swap it out, and try it. Theyre pretty universal. Ive had new ones faulty from factory before myself. |
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Post by cyborg55 on May 24, 2017 17:16:37 GMT -5
Go manual choke after you sort this thing out,,, I had problems with a new vespa et4 with a little over 100 miles on it ,,, this bike is north of 5gs out the door so new " bad happens",,,all my machines are manual fuel tap and choke,,, problems are a happy mammary
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Post by toddmaples on May 24, 2017 17:24:36 GMT -5
Boobies what?! Man those scooter clubs know how to party!!! Lol. |
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Post by onewheeldrive on May 24, 2017 22:23:47 GMT -5
It also sounds like the valve gap/gaps are too tight. Seems to always take forever to start cold when that happens.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on May 24, 2017 23:02:41 GMT -5
Still got the autochoke from the old carb? Two screws, swap it out, and try it. Theyre pretty universal. Ive had new ones faulty from factory before myself. the above may be true for a 50cc, but for my 244, autochokes come in 2 flavors, 12VDC, and the one that runs off the stator. these 2 autochokes cannot be interchanged. sure, they look alike, and even fit. but interchanging a stator model with a 12 volt model will soon burn out the 12 volt model. my solution was to gut one of the burned out chokes and render it inoperable in the no choke position and then reinstall it. i manually choked the engine with my left hand over the airbox intake. i had no problems starting the engine in temps as low as 45F or so, i never tried it in lower temps because i rarely rode when it was colder than about 45F. like i said, the above might not apply to a 50cc. |
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Post by toddmaples on May 25, 2017 2:47:06 GMT -5
Still got the autochoke from the old carb? Two screws, swap it out, and try it. Theyre pretty universal. Ive had new ones faulty from factory before myself. might not apply to a 50cc. As far as I'm aware all 50cc chokes work off of 12vdc from battery. Easy enough to check, turn key to on and check for voltage at connector. Had a bike that would never start until the key was on for a few mins due to the choke. Promptly replaced with a manual. |
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