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Post by bashan on Oct 10, 2014 23:54:00 GMT -5
You do NOT need a harness. Go to the auto parts supply and get some connectors that approximate the size of the ones you need to replace. Use a wire strip tool and carefully strip and then crimp new connectors on. That will probably fix your problems. Some of your lights like the tail lights come on with the key. Some of them come on when the bike starts, usually the headlights. Repost if you're still having problems.
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Post by bashan on Oct 10, 2014 23:41:32 GMT -5
Use a magnet and see if it sticks. Sometimes the gaskets will degrade and leave some crap in the screen. After that stops appearing I would go with an oil change every 500 miles. Remember, these engines run at 200+ F so oil breaks down quickly. Also, your cam chain tunnel helps cool the engine by oil running down after it reaches the rockers. So your oil is part of the cooling mechanism in addition to lubrication. It loses it's ability to transfer heat as it breaks down. 500 miles on an engine that runs as hot as a GY6 is 3K on a water cooled.
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Post by bashan on Oct 4, 2014 23:33:23 GMT -5
Don't waste your money bud, use the Honda Helix manual, your bike is a clone of it. I'm sure Jack has it on this site. Also Google CN250 tech tips for a great reference site for the Helix and clones. The CF Moto engine version is the CF250 or 172mm engine. It's the same thing with minor variations. Bill Lauderman used to do the tech sites for the bike but he passed the torch to Randi Pozzi. The CH250 is technically the Elite but the engine is very similar.
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Post by bashan on Oct 4, 2014 23:22:22 GMT -5
You don't need a tach to set your idle. Put the bike on the centerstand and set the idle so that the rear wheel has just stopped moving. That's with the A/F screw out to 2 1/2 turns if the mixture is right. Alley may have already touched on that.
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Roketa 150
by: bashan - Oct 4, 2014 23:15:08 GMT -5
Post by bashan on Oct 4, 2014 23:15:08 GMT -5
I agree with everything Alley said, also there have been complaints about that seller. I would tread very cautiously.
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Post by bashan on Sept 23, 2014 20:51:27 GMT -5
You let it idle 15 to 30 minutes!? That's not normal. Alley's right, it needs adjustment and you might have a vacuum leak. You mentioned a dealer, if it's under warranty this is a repair, not a service visit, and don't let them talk you into anything else.
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Hose sizes
by: bashan - Sept 18, 2014 22:03:42 GMT -5
Post by bashan on Sept 18, 2014 22:03:42 GMT -5
Vacuum lines are all 3/16". You can use fuel line for them if you want. Usually from the tank is 1'4". The bugaboo is the carb inlet is 3/16". So you can force 3/16" onto a 1/4" filter with some WD-40. I use mower filters from Tractor Supply or Lowes. You can make a 3/16" to 1/4" adapter from brass fittings at Lowes if you want. Use the pink teflon tape on these fittings as the pink is specifically for fuel.
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Post by bashan on Sept 18, 2014 21:53:42 GMT -5
When your headlights worked did they come on when the bike started up or with the key?
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Post by bashan on Sept 13, 2014 21:26:05 GMT -5
Check for vac leaks and intake leaks, that will lean it out. There are tons of places for leaks on that engine. Your system may be similar to the link I provided. |
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Post by bashan on Sept 13, 2014 21:15:07 GMT -5
Righty tighty lefty loosey on the flywheel 17mm nut as Scooter pointed out. But your flywheel puller is reverse thread into the flywheel well. Yes, they use the bizarro Chinese white loctite and sometimes heat is needed to get the nut off the first time. I just use a barbeque lighter, one of those long jobs and it seems to do OK. A small butane torch works good too. The idea is to expand the nut but not the shaft so don't heat it up too long. An impact is pretty much a required tool.
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Post by bashan on Sept 13, 2014 21:02:34 GMT -5
That is called a boss, I don't know why. The purpose of the shorter boss is to force the belt out farther on the pulley and give you a higher top gear ratio. Some guys actually cut the boss down to shorten it (Alley's pic):
However, the diameter of the boss MUST match the inner pulley or disaster awaits. |
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Post by bashan on Sept 13, 2014 20:45:57 GMT -5
Todd is correct, the gasket does distort just like on the "real" engines you mentioned when they are torqued down. They will lose the seal if reused and it may seem to run OK if you're lucky but you will lose some degree of performance and burn some oil. It's not worth it, replace it.
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Post by bashan on Sept 6, 2014 22:29:22 GMT -5
I didn't read all of this but I'd like to throw out there it sounds like a bad main spring. It happened to me. Alley diagnosed it for me about two months ago. JMO, Rich
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Post by bashan on Sept 2, 2014 0:09:16 GMT -5
I'm a little confused as to how the brights are working OK with 6v. They would be barely visible. So that makes me question the testing procedures.
Some scooters use a DC feed from the battery for the low beams and use the yellow AC feed for the high beam. The "I'm passing" button is almost always DC off of the battery. That's why you were getting a battery voltage when you hit that button.
Do your brights come on with the engine or the ignition switch? If they come on with the start of the engine they are AC and are energized by the stator. If that is the case set your multi to AC and test the feed to the brights at some RPM. You should get around 12v AC. If not we have a stator or R/R problem. Can you look at the wires coming from the stator? If there is one yellow and one white then you have some AC lights, probably the brights.
Now where is the feed to the low beams coming from? Do the low beams flash when you hit the "pass" button? The gauges are a DC feed so if your lows are off along with the gauges it makes me think it's supposed to be a DC feed. You'll have to get some plastic off and trace the source of the lows. Either the yellow runs to them or a source from the battery. Do you have a light switch? If you do that's probably the source of our problem.
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Post by bashan on Aug 24, 2014 0:36:40 GMT -5
John is 100% correct, a stator by definition only creates AC current. As the magnets approach the coils they push the electrons one way:
When the pass they create the opposite flow of electrons:
Together they give you the classic AC current waveform:
That is AC current plain and simple. If it was creating DC current it would be a generator and the mechanism of action there is completely different. If they said it was a DC stator that is wrong, there is no such thing. They may have meant that it was a three phase stator that converted all of it's AC energy to DC via the R/R and then everything including the CDI ran off of DC. A stator produces AC energy and scooters do not have generators. Rich |
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