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Post by bashan on Aug 23, 2014 0:54:34 GMT -5
I can answer a few of your questions. Most scooter electrical systems are a combination of AC and DC. Some of the lights are DC and come on with the key such as the tail light. Some are AC and come on when the stator starts spinning. These stators have the white wire that is dedicate to the charging circuit, and the yellow AC wire that is center tapped on the white wire. They also have a magneto coil that supplies AC to the AC CDI:
The white terminates in the R/R and does not split off. The Yellow splits and supplies AC current to many of the lights around the bike. But you may have a three phase DC system in which the stator has three yellows that run to the R/R. The DC output of the R/R supplies the entire bike and everything essentially runs off of the battery including the DC CDI:
Some three phase stators have a magneto coil and it supplies AC to the CDI. So how do you tell?
If your stator has a white, yellow, and green wire in the pigtail, and then a red/black and a blue/white wire, it is an AC system with mostly AC lights and an AC CDI. Some of the lights are DC as mandated by the DOT.
If the stator has three yellows and no red/black, it is a pure DC system and the CDI is DC fired.
If the stator has three yellows but also a red/black, the system is all DC except for the CDI which will be AC fired. It gets a little confusing. |
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Post by bashan on Aug 3, 2014 16:29:51 GMT -5
Respectfully disagree on the jumping non-theory with the jump vehicle running. It doesn't happen everytime because the jump vehicle's regulator is working. If you're lucky the voltage stays low enough to not trash your R/R. Your R/R is not offline during a jump, electrons move from negative to positive. So they flow through the ground of the scooter's R/R, THROUGH the R/R, and out to the red wire. When you jump your putting electrons through the negative terminal of your battery, through your R/R like they always do, and out to the positive terminal like they always do. That's not a problem when you just jump from a battery, it takes what it needs. But if the jump is running, THAT alternator R/R can spike in response to the draw and send a surge through your R/R...poof. That's great you never had any bad effects from that. But I know more than a few that have. It's not fair to tell young members that it's OK when you're basing your comments on just your own experiences. There's a lot of folks that have had trouble jump starting with the jump vehicle running, a quick Google brings up volumes. Here's a chart of the electron flow:
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Post by bashan on Aug 2, 2014 22:25:11 GMT -5
If you are getting a nice blue spark when you kick the engine over it means you have a good power feed on the red/black from the stator to the CDI, a good trigger feed from the pulse coil to the CDI, a good CDI to send the spark down stream, and a good coil to send it on to the plug.
Did you check the fuse? If it's a 50cc you probably only have one near the battery. It will be in the thin red wire in a holder.
So what is it doing? It won't turn over, no lights, won't start with the kick? Did you make sure the killswitch is set to run? Sometimes if you bump them they will shut everything down. Probably not the starter, doesn't sound like it, but possible if it's shorted.
You could put a truck battery in your scooter and it will not harm it, so you did no damage there, don't worry about that. A bike's system draws what it needs, the electrons from the battery do not force themselves into a system, they are simply there for the asking of the bike. What DOES torch a bike is jumping it while the jump vehicle is running! Poof.....new regulator. |
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Post by bashan on Jul 13, 2014 0:35:19 GMT -5
There is no bushing. The boss does two things, at idle it provides a roller for the belt to ride on. Then it provides a guide as the inner pulley moves out. It has to be a little sloppy because of the dramatic heat differentials that Alley alluded to. Otherwise the inner pulley would freeze up on it. Crud would also freeze it up. The weights release their own lubricant on the ramp plate. But the effect of that black substance is like oil, it absorbs dirt and turns into grime. Clean your parts with ethanol which is rubbing alcohol. It's a good solvent but not caustic. You can even clean weights and sliders with it. Do NOT lubricate the ramp plate, weights, or outside of the boss. Where the inner pulley rides and turns I use a little hi temp grease but not much. Remember, grease gets runny with heat and goes out with the spin of the variator.
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Post by bashan on Jul 13, 2014 0:08:50 GMT -5
Hey Alley, how about sliders? I'm fixing to try them in the wife's Puma. Noneshere, JR has suggested to me to try 1 gram lighter sliders than my rollers. He says you get better acceleration, hill climbing. and preserve your top end. They're an inexpensive mod too. Also, I've had good success with a stiffer main spring. It holds you in the lower gears longer for better take off but eventually the RPMs and variator weights overcome the resistance and you reach your old top end, maybe a little longer to get there. Stiffer tensioner springs give you a better hole shot because the clutch engages at a higher RPM. Alley da man on the CVT issues...I dabble.
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Post by bashan on Jul 12, 2014 23:56:37 GMT -5
Yeah, I'm just curious who told you to jack the throttle? It's a CV carb with no accelerator pump. Some 250s have a pump but very few 150s. But I digress, I'm assuming you set your valves?
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Post by bashan on Jul 4, 2014 23:46:05 GMT -5
Agreed, it is steep. We had many folks use bicycle speedos as aftermarket devices. I'm not sure how they adapted them as far as wheel size but apparently they were adjustable. Some of them were under $30.00. I just put the TT out there as an option. I've used a couple of their products in the past and they are bulletproof. The quality and tech support is beyond great.
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Post by bashan on Jul 4, 2014 19:54:06 GMT -5
Sprocket, possibly the smartest man on any scooter forum, always recommended this aftermarket speedo and scorned you if you had a factory Sino speedo:
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Post by bashan on Jul 3, 2014 23:51:38 GMT -5
I rode a Kawasaki 1500fi for years and the speedo was off 5 to 10. My Chinese scooters were always 15 off. Bikes tend to be off like that, I'm not sure why. My SYM 300i is pretty close although I haven't GPS'd it. However, it comes back to, what did you pay for the scooter? I know I paid squat for the Sino scooters. If the speedo is off, I just feel I got to suck it up and adapt like bnc did. If I paid a price like I did for the SYM, I expect more, and I got it. You don't get something for nothing. Chinese bikes are a steal, accept the paybacks.
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Post by bashan on Jul 2, 2014 23:36:47 GMT -5
My impression would be there's very little holding the valve spring in place. I'm amazed you've got this far without catastrophic results. If the retainer let's loose that valve is dropping and you'll be replacing more than the head. No, I've never seen what you described happen and, from what you described, you've been incredibly lucky so far.
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Post by bashan on May 14, 2014 0:13:16 GMT -5
The first test is to put the multimeter on the battery while the bike is running and see if it's charging. That will tell you a lot about the stator and R/R. If you're 13+dc the charging circuit is probably OK. That's the white wire. Now, take the yellow wire off of the R/R. Put one probe of your multi in the end of that wire, it doesn't matter which probe. If you have three yellows that's a three phase which is a different animal but with a 125 I doubt it. Ground the other probe to frame. Start the motor and see what you get on AC. If you're getting 25v AC or so the stator is probably OK and it's probably the R/R. The yellow on your bike handles most of the lights, unless it's three phase. If you don't get squat on the battery or the yellow, it's probably the stator. The battery won't affect the charge rate a lot unless it is REALLY toast, but usually it won't affect it enough to throw up a huge red flag, but there are no absolutes. If in doubt, take your battery down to Auto Weinie and get it "load tested", that is a completely different test. You also may have had a ground come loose from the lighting circuit. If the other test are negative, you'll have to pull some plastic and start tracing wires.
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Post by bashan on Apr 25, 2014 5:32:31 GMT -5
Sorry, I actually wasn't specifically talking to you although it did sound like that. I was talking to people that this time of the year roll their bike out and think that Seafoam is the holy grail of protection against the elements. Especially with ethanol in the gas nowadays it is even more important to drain them. Also, your bike has a CVT, your lawn equipment doesn't. However, I was rude and I apologize. Rich
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Post by bashan on Apr 24, 2014 23:11:11 GMT -5
I have a CF 250....you have to get that exhaust leak off of the table. These engines are funny in that they have reflux into the combustion chamber from the exhaust. This is because Honda detuned them so they would last forever...and they do. The CFs will last about as long with some TLC. People think that the exhaust just continually pushes out..it does not. There are pressure waves that set up in an engine and there are actually negative pressure troughs that will pull atmosphere back into the engine through the exhaust port. That is how a PAIR unit works, pressure waves. So Honda overlapped the cam a bunch which makes for a loping mild mannered engine. It also lets the screen door open for bugs to come in. Fix the leak. Next, set your valves. The Honda people have a specific gap but all of the mechanics use the push the adjuster up against the mechanism while it's running. It's fun! I'm sure Jack has that video from Mike at BPNW somewhere on this site. Kissy wissy Jack. :-*Rich
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Post by bashan on Apr 24, 2014 22:55:40 GMT -5
SYMs are high...I ride one. The 125 is going to be about 170 PSI. Go to Auto Zone...they will usually loan you a tester. The finger thing does NOT work. Make sure the adapter doesn't go too far down in the jug...ow. I bet it's the compression. Rich |
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He was a pillar of the scooter world, built race cars, and I miss him a lot.