|
|
Post by wutzthedeal on Mar 2, 2014 22:58:44 GMT -5
Hey guys, my TaoTao 49cc 2012 (VIP) didn't like sitting all winter. I had put a little seafoam in the fuel, and when it had problems on a test ride, I put some more in it (it wouldn't go over 15mph; just would die if I gave it too much gas). I know the general things to check but I figured that we could shorten the hunt for this problem by knowing that the only change was inactivity. I did go ahead and change oil, belt, rollers. I have not replaced carb (this one I have on it is upjetted and I'd like to keep that but may have to swap out for original one that I have). I did mess around with the battery as my 12v lighter sockets panel had a broken wire so I had to remove it and fix that, then replaced it. The starter mechanism sometimes spins or clanks but it did that last year, too. I have not replaced the fuel filter or lines this year (did last year). Haven't checked spark or compression. Did clean air filter. Adjusted fuel/air to 1.75 turns out, idle to make it (when it was running) about 2,200 rpm. Thanks for help, as always!
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Mar 2, 2014 23:22:19 GMT -5
You probably need to clean your carb. After sitting for a winter, even with Sea Foam, the ethanol could have gelled inside of one of the jets or an air passage. Pull the carb off, take it apart and use carb cleaner in every hole you can find, might be a good idea to watch a video on it to see where to spray.
BTW- 2200rpms is a bit high for an idle. I'm surprised that your rear wheel doesn't spin at that rpm, and if it does then you definitely need to re-adjust your a/f idle speed screw or you will end up glazing your clutch pads. Suggested idle speed is around 1700rpm.
|
|
|
|
Post by millsc on Mar 2, 2014 23:26:46 GMT -5
Did you start it every once in awhile this winter and let it run a bit? In most cases of the it won't run right after it sit all winter I drain the gas,oil, clean the carb or put in new jets,adjust the valves, and change the plug. I call it after winter tune up.
|
|
|
|
Post by PCBGY6 on Mar 3, 2014 2:22:22 GMT -5
I was lucky. Mine has sit outside without a cover for the winter (3 months) and started right up with a jump. Last year i had to clean the carb just to get it to start.
|
|
|
|
Post by wutzthedeal on Mar 3, 2014 9:45:09 GMT -5
Ok that's probably what it is then. No I didn't start it, I mean I may have started it once in December for 10 minutes. Before, I would just bundle up and ride through the winter but now the arthritis is winning that battle. I need to get some carb cleaner.
|
|
|
|
Post by wutzthedeal on Apr 12, 2014 18:18:08 GMT -5
Update: the issues continue! What I've done:
1. Replaced carb with the same type that was in there (the upjetted one I got last year that ran great); no difference
2. Cone style air filter: does not like that much air, even when I load the fuel in using a/f--had to cover it with a cloth glove or some duct tape around part of it to slow airflow
3. Swapped fuel filters.
4. Swapped spark plug.
5. Checked and re-checked tire pressures; replaced front tire, haven't replaced rear yet.
After replacing carb, at least it will run. But now I max out at 30mph, but it is smooth, just not as responsive as it used to be low and medium end (it has no high end, far as I'm concerned). The Frawg is a sad, sad scooter, and requires even more of your expertise! Are we now at valve adjustment, or have I missed something?
|
|
Sophomore Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 163
Likes: 15
Joined: Aug 20, 2013 13:54:34 GMT -5
|
Post by phssthpok on Apr 12, 2014 19:19:33 GMT -5
Update: the issues continue! What I've done: 1. Replaced carb with the same type that was in there (the upjetted one I got last year that ran great); no difference 2. Cone style air filter: does not like that much air, even when I load the fuel in using a/f--had to cover it with a cloth glove or some duct tape around part of it to slow airflow3. Swapped fuel filters. 4. Swapped spark plug. 5. Checked and re-checked tire pressures; replaced front tire, haven't replaced rear yet. After replacing carb, at least it will run. But now I max out at 30mph, but it is smooth, just not as responsive as it used to be low and medium end (it has no high end, far as I'm concerned). The Frawg is a sad, sad scooter, and requires even more of your expertise! Are we now at valve adjustment, or have I missed something? Inspect your intake manifold for cracks. You may have induced a crack in the process of swapping carburetors. I chased my tail for days with 'too much air' symptoms, and it turned out to be a cracked rubber manifold. If it *is* a cracked manifold problem, slathering the outside with RTV silicone will work as a stop-gap repair until you get a new one.  |
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Apr 12, 2014 21:10:52 GMT -5
I would definitely do a valve adjustment. Once that is done, you should follow alleyoop's carb tuning instructions. Once you think you have it tuned as well as you can, put in a clean spark plug and do a WOT run for at least 5 miles. Now pull the spark plug and look at the porcelain inside the threaded area, you want to see a nice brown coffee color. If it's white, you are running too lean and may need to upjet the carb. If it's dark brown, you are running too rich.
|
|
|
|
Post by wutzthedeal on Apr 12, 2014 23:55:55 GMT -5
Thanks guys; those will be my next moves. Forgot to mention, if it matters, that compression was at least good enough to blow my finger off easily as I tried to keep it pressed in.
|
|
|
|
Post by wutzthedeal on Apr 17, 2014 16:51:39 GMT -5
Update: Adjusted valves; no help except slight increase in acceleration. Still stuck at 20-25 mph (and it takes forever to get there from about 18mph) then if I give it more gas, it drops in power/bogs (but won't turn off or anything). My intake valve was slightly off, sitting around .006, so I got it back to .004 and other valve was correct at .005 from my last adjustment. I did notice a TINY bit if pinging/tapping; not sure if it's always been there or if I made it happen. I don't think it's related, but my throttle was sticking, too, about half open when I would let off; I WD40'd the cable and I think it's ok.
SO, to add to my list of things above, I've done everything EXCEPT: a plug chop, swap/replace exhaust, CDI, clutch stuff, put newer variator back in, put old air box back on. Since I put on the old variator early in troubleshooting, when i replaced carb and air filter could I possibly be having some issues with the plastic guides? I'm guessing, since I'm running out of ideas. My Dr. P. sliders still look good... if anything, they might have worn down to 6g. Would the plastic guides cause this? Anything else like clutch stuff or maybe a bent back wheel getting stuck on brakes or? I'm out of ideas. If I just keep doing what we used to call "swaptronics," I think my next purchase would be a new performance variator with new sliders. Idle sounds great; followed all of your instructions on a/f and valves.
|
|
|
|
Post by alleyoop on Apr 17, 2014 17:13:33 GMT -5
From all you have done, It appears the Variator is not closing and is binding so YES check the plastic guides they may be binding and not allowing the variator to move out more and the belt will sit at a certain point in the pulley and will cause the bogging with the thtrottle wide open and the belt not allowing the motor to rev up.
Alleyoop
|
|
|
|
Post by wutzthedeal on Apr 17, 2014 17:19:43 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by alleyoop on Apr 17, 2014 17:33:06 GMT -5
WOW!! Sameo Sameo, put a little grease on the metal guides to help the plastic guides slide up and down not a lot just a little all around them. Know if the metal guides on the variator are chipped or missing some metal put a different variator on.
Alleyoop
|
|
|
|
Post by wutzthedeal on Apr 17, 2014 17:46:11 GMT -5
Ok but I just found out that the symptoms are also occuring while on the center stand, unlike last time where it performed fine on the center stand but started off very slowly when I put a load on. Now, it has decent acceleration but bombs out when i get up to 20 mph or so (or when I turn the throttle to much). Are we talking about a case of the plate sticking on the way back vs the way out?
|
|
|
|
Post by alleyoop on Apr 17, 2014 19:16:02 GMT -5
Best thing to make sure what is happening is take the CVT cover off and watch what it is doing.
Alleyoop
|
|
Main Jet
..BAD TO THE BONE..