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Post by joseb on Aug 31, 2014 10:35:09 GMT -5
Hi!
I have a couple of questions about the headlights on my Tank 150cc scooter:
1) My regular low-beam headlights don't work (nor do the gauge lights) at all. I pulled the headlight assembly and checked the harness to see if there was anything wrong, all the pins and wires looked OK. I changed the bulbs and it did not make a difference. Anything I should check? The high-beams work OK.
2) While I had the assembly off, I checked the voltage coming from the battery / scooter side to the harness, and noticed that the low-beam (white wire) and high-beam (blue wire) are only getting ~6v with the engine running, when I hit the momentary flash-to-pass switch, I saw a full 14-15v. Anything I can check to see why the voltage is so low for low and high-beams?
The scooter is a 2008 Tank DS-08 150cc
Thanks!
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Post by scooter on Sept 1, 2014 1:19:59 GMT -5
Have you recently replaced the light switches or done any work on the bike? |
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Post by joseb on Sept 1, 2014 7:12:03 GMT -5
Have you recently replaced the light switches or done any work on the bike? No work on the light switches. I changed the ignition (CDI and coil) but the headlight issue existed before that. I just bought the scooter used two weeks ago, issue with headlights existed when I bought it. |
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Post by scooter on Sept 1, 2014 9:13:51 GMT -5
Have you recently replaced the light switches or done any work on the bike? No work on the light switches. I changed the ignition (CDI and coil) but the headlight issue existed before that. I just bought the scooter used two weeks ago, issue with headlights existed when I bought it. I'm sure someone will come along who can help you. The other day I replaced my broken switch, the one that goes off/running/on, on the right side. It has two sets of wires that plug into it. I had them plugged in wrong. One was upside down or in the wrong socket. I had running lights and then when I hit the full lights the dash light would go out. I'd turn the lights on and they'd be off, but when I hit the momentary switch for passing lights on the other side, the lights would come on. It took me several tries at switching the two plugs on the on/running/off switch and flipping them upside down until I had the correct plugs in the correct socket and both plugs correct side up. Fourth one from the left with two sockets.  |
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Post by bashan on Sept 2, 2014 0:09:16 GMT -5
I'm a little confused as to how the brights are working OK with 6v. They would be barely visible. So that makes me question the testing procedures.
Some scooters use a DC feed from the battery for the low beams and use the yellow AC feed for the high beam. The "I'm passing" button is almost always DC off of the battery. That's why you were getting a battery voltage when you hit that button.
Do your brights come on with the engine or the ignition switch? If they come on with the start of the engine they are AC and are energized by the stator. If that is the case set your multi to AC and test the feed to the brights at some RPM. You should get around 12v AC. If not we have a stator or R/R problem. Can you look at the wires coming from the stator? If there is one yellow and one white then you have some AC lights, probably the brights.
Now where is the feed to the low beams coming from? Do the low beams flash when you hit the "pass" button? The gauges are a DC feed so if your lows are off along with the gauges it makes me think it's supposed to be a DC feed. You'll have to get some plastic off and trace the source of the lows. Either the yellow runs to them or a source from the battery. Do you have a light switch? If you do that's probably the source of our problem.
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Post by joseb on Sept 3, 2014 17:48:10 GMT -5
I'm a little confused as to how the brights are working OK with 6v. They would be barely visible. So that makes me question the testing procedures.
Some scooters use a DC feed from the battery for the low beams and use the yellow AC feed for the high beam. The "I'm passing" button is almost always DC off of the battery. That's why you were getting a battery voltage when you hit that button.
Do your brights come on with the engine or the ignition switch? If they come on with the start of the engine they are AC and are energized by the stator. If that is the case set your multi to AC and test the feed to the brights at some RPM. You should get around 12v AC. If not we have a stator or R/R problem. Can you look at the wires coming from the stator? If there is one yellow and one white then you have some AC lights, probably the brights.
Now where is the feed to the low beams coming from? Do the low beams flash when you hit the "pass" button? The gauges are a DC feed so if your lows are off along with the gauges it makes me think it's supposed to be a DC feed. You'll have to get some plastic off and trace the source of the lows. Either the yellow runs to them or a source from the battery. Do you have a light switch? If you do that's probably the source of our problem.
Ok, So I had time just now to go and test some things. A) Turns out the headlights are in fact AC, not DC as I thought before. I turned just the ignition on and wasn't able to get low or high beams to work, only the "I'm passing" lights. I then turned the scooter on and connected the multimeter on vAC to the low beam wire (white, I believe it was) and was getting a solid ~15-~17v, I switched over to the high beam, connected the multimeter to the blue wire, and was reading the same voltage. B) I was getting those voltages even though the low beam was turned off. I also noticed that if the headlight assembly is not connected to the scooter, and the scooter is running, the gauge lights work all the time. Almost as soon as I connect the headlight assembly, the gauge lights go off unless I have the high beams on. Once or twice as I was shutting the scooter off and turning it back on I would get the low beams on, but if I switched to high beams and back to low beams, the low beams would not turn on again. Could this be the switch? I'd be happy to swap that little guy out if it'll fix the issue. Also, is there a way to switch the headlights from AC to DC? Would that even be beneficial in anyway? |
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Post by alleyoop on Sept 3, 2014 18:21:53 GMT -5
15+ volts sounds like the R/R is bad and not regulating the voltage. Test what it is putting out to the battery for charging.
Alleyoop
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..BAD TO THE BONE..