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Post by joseb on Nov 1, 2015 23:37:23 GMT -5
Does anyone have any info on this scooter, specifically looking for info on the engine and body.
It's a 2009 that my buddy bought new. I have worked on it before (mostly just oil changes, tire changes and such), but recently he had an issue with the exhaust, it keeps coming loose and losing the studs from the head. I think we've replaced the studs 4 times now, they seem to be in there good and tight, I even loctited them last time. They lasted for almost a year but now they are gone again.
Anyway, he and his wife decided to get rid of it and it landed in my garage haha, so now I'm looking for a solution to the exhaust issue. I would just order a new head, but the scooter is a 170cc and a normal 150cc head won't fit on it (compared it to my other 150cc). I guess if I could find a suitable head, I'd just as well replace it.
Otherwise, could I just pull the current head, fit new bolts in and have a shop tack-weld them in place?
Thanks for any info / advice.
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Post by joseb on Apr 21, 2015 10:10:42 GMT -5
I'm not familiar with the alarm / auto start, but doesn't the brake need to be applied before the engine will crank? Or you saying that by connecting directly to the solenoid you can bypass the brake requirement?
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Post by joseb on Apr 21, 2015 8:52:55 GMT -5
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Post by joseb on Apr 21, 2015 8:50:53 GMT -5
Buy this one with the straight side . I bet it will fit even with the 2 small cruved parts on yours . it will slightly stretch if it has to , and after its on , seal just fine. m.ebay.com/itm/180982882106?nav=SEARCHThanks! I ordered that one and will try it out. |
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Post by joseb on Apr 19, 2015 19:36:14 GMT -5
I have a 150cc scooter with engine code 157qmj, but it has a 2-bolt valve cover instead of the normal 4-bolt. Well when I went in to adjust the valves last weekend, as I pulled the cover, a good chunk of the gasket / oil seal broke apart. I did what I could to save it but it's leaking pretty bad at this point. Does anyone have any leads on part number / where I can find this gasket / seal? eBay so far has not been useful. I've attached some pictures in case that helps.  Valve Cover by joseb552, on Flickr  Valve Cover by joseb552, on Flickr |
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Post by joseb on Sept 3, 2014 17:48:10 GMT -5
I'm a little confused as to how the brights are working OK with 6v. They would be barely visible. So that makes me question the testing procedures.
Some scooters use a DC feed from the battery for the low beams and use the yellow AC feed for the high beam. The "I'm passing" button is almost always DC off of the battery. That's why you were getting a battery voltage when you hit that button.
Do your brights come on with the engine or the ignition switch? If they come on with the start of the engine they are AC and are energized by the stator. If that is the case set your multi to AC and test the feed to the brights at some RPM. You should get around 12v AC. If not we have a stator or R/R problem. Can you look at the wires coming from the stator? If there is one yellow and one white then you have some AC lights, probably the brights.
Now where is the feed to the low beams coming from? Do the low beams flash when you hit the "pass" button? The gauges are a DC feed so if your lows are off along with the gauges it makes me think it's supposed to be a DC feed. You'll have to get some plastic off and trace the source of the lows. Either the yellow runs to them or a source from the battery. Do you have a light switch? If you do that's probably the source of our problem.
Ok, So I had time just now to go and test some things. A) Turns out the headlights are in fact AC, not DC as I thought before. I turned just the ignition on and wasn't able to get low or high beams to work, only the "I'm passing" lights. I then turned the scooter on and connected the multimeter on vAC to the low beam wire (white, I believe it was) and was getting a solid ~15-~17v, I switched over to the high beam, connected the multimeter to the blue wire, and was reading the same voltage. B) I was getting those voltages even though the low beam was turned off. I also noticed that if the headlight assembly is not connected to the scooter, and the scooter is running, the gauge lights work all the time. Almost as soon as I connect the headlight assembly, the gauge lights go off unless I have the high beams on. Once or twice as I was shutting the scooter off and turning it back on I would get the low beams on, but if I switched to high beams and back to low beams, the low beams would not turn on again. Could this be the switch? I'd be happy to swap that little guy out if it'll fix the issue. Also, is there a way to switch the headlights from AC to DC? Would that even be beneficial in anyway? |
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Post by joseb on Sept 1, 2014 7:12:03 GMT -5
Have you recently replaced the light switches or done any work on the bike? No work on the light switches. I changed the ignition (CDI and coil) but the headlight issue existed before that. I just bought the scooter used two weeks ago, issue with headlights existed when I bought it. |
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Post by joseb on Aug 31, 2014 10:35:09 GMT -5
Hi!
I have a couple of questions about the headlights on my Tank 150cc scooter:
1) My regular low-beam headlights don't work (nor do the gauge lights) at all. I pulled the headlight assembly and checked the harness to see if there was anything wrong, all the pins and wires looked OK. I changed the bulbs and it did not make a difference. Anything I should check? The high-beams work OK.
2) While I had the assembly off, I checked the voltage coming from the battery / scooter side to the harness, and noticed that the low-beam (white wire) and high-beam (blue wire) are only getting ~6v with the engine running, when I hit the momentary flash-to-pass switch, I saw a full 14-15v. Anything I can check to see why the voltage is so low for low and high-beams?
The scooter is a 2008 Tank DS-08 150cc
Thanks!
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