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Yeah. That wasn't it. When I took the valve cover off I set the crank to TDC and the cam matched time. So, I went to check the valves to see if they were too tight or what and low and behold... the damn adjustment screw on the exhaust valve was MISSING! So, there is a screw and a nut floating around my crankcase somewhere. I dumped the oil, found nothing intact. Bear in mind this engine has run for about half an hour since it got gone and any severe damage that is going to be done is probably done. What are the chances that this thing just got pulverized into shavings and came out with the oil? slim to none, probably. Crap. Well, short of tearing apart the entire engine looking for it I think I'm just gonna replace the offending rocker and roll with it. Any suggestions?

So I was riding down the road, at full speed, and a belt broke. I replaced the belt on the side of the road and when i cranked the motor back up it sounded like garbage. No power, sputtering, wouldnt take full throttle. Had to ride home at a top speed of 10mph. Im looking at it and I think the timing might have jumped a tooth when the belt broke. The bike is running poorly. It will start and idle, but the carb is spitting fuel vapor out of the intake and it still wont take much throttle. Does this sound like a likely scenario? I have a performance (no rev limit) cdi so it probably wound up pretty high before i let off the gas when I was riding at full speed and the belt broke. And the problem only started after that. Anything else to check before I tear into the timing chain?

I have a TaoTao 50cc bike. I put the 72cc bbk on it, big valve head, A9 cam, slider rollers, hot springs, etc. The entire big is built for performance- and it will fly when it runs right. So my bike sat for a while and the gas gelled up inside the carb. I cleaned it out- jets and all- but it kept cutting off on me. I swapped carbs to see if that was the problem and it fixed it. Only thing is the carb I stuck on there is a 150cc carb. It took a little finess to get it in there but man does it scream with this carb. So I want to keep the carb but have a question about tuning it. I don't know what size jet it has in it but it's visually got a larger hole than the # I had in my 50cc carb so I know it's probably running rich. I have not done a plug chop to confirm, but when the engine is not at full operating temp it hesitates real bad on acceleration. If I give it WOT I get dead missing. Would this be a result of a lean or rich condition? I would think because it has so much more space for air to move through then potentially at WOT it doesnt have enough vaccum to pull fuel through the jet... but that's why I'm asking. It's real confusing- because when then bike is hot it runs like a banshee. Runs great, no hessitation on acceleration... pulls like a horse. Will even break the rear wheel free now (if I hold the front brake and ram down the front, obviously). Anyway I dont know if anyone else has tried this, or has any input. It would be greatly appreciated- any help.
Ok question #2- charging. It's not. I want to say that before my bike sat I tried replacing the diode rectifier but it wasnt with a new one so I don't know that I accomplished anything. I have a 3 wire stator- I ohmed out the 2 wires to the green one and they are fine (~1ohm each). I did a running test and got ~25va/c at each one. I did not get much of an increase when I snapped the throttle but I didnt wind the motor up much either. It is outputting voltage though. Does it need to be putting out more voltage or should i test further? Or should I look elsewhere? Another symptom is that as my battery dies all my lights start dimming (other than the a/c powered headlamp). Should I disconnect my battery while the bike is running I will have NO LIGHTS at all except for my headlamp. The brake/rear lights, the entire dash (guages and all) go out and my turn indicators dont work. I have a dc cdi- is this normal or is this indicitive of a bad charging system? I obviously checked for voltage at the battery while it is running and I DO NOT have charging voltage (which I would assume to be ~13-14v D/C). Any help on EITHER of these 2 issues would be GREATLY appreciated. I'm a do it yourself kinda guy but I'm broke and can't afford to just buy a new stator and see if that fixes the problem. Thanks!

Good question- I dont know. Think I have a 4 wire stator... I think, I'd have to check... why whats up?

or put the bike on the center stand and see if the back wheel spins freely (derp)
You say that you know the clutch is fine- how did you test it? if the engine bogs down before it engages you probably wouldnt get an accurate test. Can you get the rear wheel to spin when the bike is on the center stand and the rear wheel is off the ground? It takes a lot less power for the engine to move the wheel under no load - it might not bog down when its on the center stand. If this is the case it might clear a few things up...

Pardon my ignorance- R/R is the rectifier/regulator?

[replyingto=scootnwinn]scootnwinn[/replyingto]Damn right. I'm one of them. Put a $1000 dollar bike in front of me and tell me it's $100? Give me a bill of sale so I'M legal and I have 0 problems. I just buy a better lock for it.