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Post by sickopsycho on Aug 1, 2013 22:13:14 GMT -5
No worries- glad to help and thanks for all the pics. These engines can seem confusing but on a basic level are extremely simple. Once you start working on them you can get a hang of it quickly. =)
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Post by sickopsycho on Aug 1, 2013 22:08:17 GMT -5
[replyingto=nwhicks21]nwhicks21[/replyingto]You need to put the chain guide back in (long black piece). It's important or it wouldnt be there. It sits UNDER the gasket in a little notched area with the two stubs sitting in there- if that makes sense. Make sure you reset the chain tensioner- you push the little clip in and slide the toothed piece all the way in, install it THEN screw the spring in. Check this link out, read it carefully and see if you missed anything. ebay.globaldc.com/scooterparts/borekits/100ccGY6/install/bbk.htmlDid one of the compression rings have ANY silver on it? even just the edge? This one needs to go on top with the edge thats silver facing up (if it has a "side"). This is important- the writing should be facing up, too, but the silver ring actually helps to "wear in" the rings to the cylinder and while it may work or run improperly installed, it might suffer in the long run. Also were the end gaps installed opposing each other on the piston rings? VERY IMPORTANT! The timing shouldnt matter as long as it is assembled in time. Make sure you hand crank it (just spin the flywheel or variator by hand) before you put the starter or kickstart to it. If there is interference you wont mess it up hand cranking it. |
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Post by sickopsycho on Aug 1, 2013 21:57:11 GMT -5
[replyingto=skuttadawg]skuttadawg[/replyingto]This should work for you. Assuming you have a good battery- unplug your ignition wiring harness. You dont have to jump any wires- Remove the fairing in the front enought to just get behind the ignition... there is a short pigtail with 4/5 wires coming from your ignition. Unplug it (your ignition from the wiring harness). Now take a screwdriver and jump the terminals of your starter relay. It should turn over (and hopefully start). Don't tell your friends about this, this is OUR little secret. =)
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Post by sickopsycho on Aug 1, 2013 21:33:07 GMT -5
[replyingto=skuttadawg]skuttadawg[/replyingto]Yeah what he said about the overflow line leaking. Let us know what you find out- I'm really curious now. =)
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Post by sickopsycho on Aug 1, 2013 21:30:06 GMT -5
[replyingto=paulgendek]paulgendek[/replyingto]I have always read that you should go 1g LIGHTER with sliders to get similar performance to rollers. e.g. 5g rollers and 4g sliders SHOULD behave similarly. Can't confirm it but I have read it in numerous places and a lot of online retailers say the same thing.
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Post by sickopsycho on Aug 1, 2013 21:25:32 GMT -5
[replyingto=nwhicks21]nwhicks21[/replyingto]If it did anything at all when you sprayed starter fluid in (stumbled, tried to start, ran for a sec then cut off)- then it's not your ignition causing the problem. When you spray in starter fluid you are mimicking a perfect fuel air mixture so you're essentially doing the carbs work for it. Check all fuel hoses, vacuum hoses, carb cleanliness. You're not getting fuel if what I just described is true. This could be due to a clogged carb, clogged fuel filter, even a bad petcock. Did you suck the vacuum hose that connects to the petcock to "prime" the carb? Sometimes it takes a while for the carb bowl to fill up... I'd try removing the fuel line to the carb and sucking the vacuum line to see if gas comes out of the fuel line... if so then it's somewhere in your carb...
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Post by sickopsycho on Aug 1, 2013 21:19:45 GMT -5
[replyingto=sickopsycho]sickopsycho[/replyingto]Last post- If your hoses are all correct I'm pretty sure it HAS to be the petcock. Thinking about it that's really the ONLY thing it could be. The symptoms will be exactly as I described- thanks for posting all the pictures, it makes it MUCH easier to tell whats going on.
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Post by sickopsycho on Aug 1, 2013 21:18:12 GMT -5
The only thing I could think of if your hoses are all properly connected is a bad petcock. Looking at the diagram you posted it appears that a vacuum line comes from the intake, for some reason T's to the carb and runs to the petcock. If the diaphram inside the petcock is torn, gasoline could be sucked through that vacuum line into the engine. In this case when you drain the oil it should be more like gasoline, not oil. you might can confirm a bad petcock by removing the vacuum line from where it connects to the intake and carefully sucking on it- gasoline will come into your mouth. if you suck the hose and nothing comes out (but you create a vacuum and cant suck harder) then the petcock is good.
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Post by sickopsycho on Aug 1, 2013 21:13:25 GMT -5
 !!!1 Thats no good, dude. Are you sure thats where it's coming from because the only way gas should be getting into your engine is though a tiny pinhole of a jet in your carb and theres no way it could suck in so much (not to mention it wouldnt run at all). Pull the dipstick and see if it smells like gas or oil. If gas, drain the oil- you should have about 1 quart, a little less maybe of oil. The ONLY way straight gasoline could come out of your crank vent is if you have straight gasoline in your engine (where oil should be). Check your hoses carefully- make sure a vacuum line isn't mixed up with a gas line? |
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Post by sickopsycho on Aug 1, 2013 21:02:49 GMT -5
[replyingto=paulgendek]paulgendek[/replyingto]I wouldnt ride without the bracket- there is another member on here now that is dealing with what will probably happen. The exhaust studs are crap and will easily break- leaving you with a headache. Are these the only things holding your exhaust on? If so I wouldnt ride it at all until you secure it (somehow). As far as the lower acceleration- that's the price you pay for heavier rollers. Try mixing the 4 and 5g rollers to get effectively 4.5g. Just install them 1 4g then 1 5g then 1 4g etc. Or get sliders- they kind of offer the best of both worlds. Remember- get 1g lower than you need with sliders, though. If you're running 5g rollers 4g sliders would be similar.
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Post by sickopsycho on Aug 1, 2013 20:43:51 GMT -5
If you can post CLEAR pictures of the rings I can help. Timing is easy. My bbk can with NO directions- but ring installation is fairly universal. There should be 5 piston rings. 2 compression rings (the thick ones) and 3 oil control rings (2 thin ones and a wavy one). The oil control rings all go on the bottom slot. Be careful installing all rings, they can break easily. The wavy oil control ring probably has notches on the inside where the thinner oil rings sit on it. It will install with the 2 thin ones outside the wavy one (like a sandwich where the thin rings are the bread). First put some assembly lube (or 2-cycle oil, or clean motor oil if all else fails) on the rings and the piston grooves. Next install the oil control rings- making sure the thin ones remain outside the the wavy one. Next install the compression rings- IMPORTANT! there should be one compression ring that is either silver or that has a silver edge, or has some writing on it. This one MUST BE THE TOP RING! If there is any writing on ANY of the rings make sure the writing is installed facing UP (towards the top of the piston). ALSO VERY IMPORTANT! make sure when you install the piston into the cylinder that the ring gaps (the space where the ring is open) are 180 degrees apart. One compression end gap should be on one side, the other on the opposite side. The oil control ring doesnt matter so much.
Now- timing-
Before you disassemble the engine set it to Top Dead Center (TDC). Remove the valve cover and the flywheel cover (the cover opposite the variator). On the flywheel (the brass thing with a fan over it) there are some marks- some lines with one having a "T" next to it. Rotate the flywheel by hand so that the "t" mark lines up with the notch in the engine casing that sticks out at approximately 9:00 on the case. Look at the cam sprocket- there should be 3 holes in it- one big one and 2 little ones. The big hole should be facing straight up and the 2 little ones should be lined up with the top of your head. Boom- you're at tdc. When you reassemble simply make sure that the brass wheel is in the same place (T mark lined up) and the cam sprocket is lined up the same way. If you are even one tooth off with your chain it will be obvious. Rotate the engine by hand before you start it to make sure there is no interference and you're good to go. =)
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Post by sickopsycho on Aug 1, 2013 20:28:08 GMT -5
IDK if you read my previous post but YES YES YES wd-40! spray wd on it, wait 15 minutes. repeat. repeat. the more you spray and longer you wait the easier it will be to come out. also make sure you grab it with the vise grips so that the teeth can bite it. Dont grab it straight on, bite it from the side. Remove the plastic engine wrap thing if you need more room, it comes off pretty easily. If it were me I'd spray it a couple or 3 times tonight then attack it first thing in the morning (after spraying again). You might only get one or shots at grabbing that thing so dont waste them.
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Post by sickopsycho on Aug 1, 2013 20:24:39 GMT -5
I posted on one of the other thread but I'll write it again- 105 sounds way too big for a 72cc motor. I have a very similar setup to yours and am running with an  #. Same bbk, same intake but stock carb. an  # was too much gas for my bike... ymmv. |
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Post by sickopsycho on Aug 1, 2013 20:16:16 GMT -5
yeah the pic looks like there is a protrusion there- is this the case? can you feel or see a piece of the old stud sticking out? That's what it looks like...
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Post by sickopsycho on Aug 1, 2013 20:12:55 GMT -5
weights are definitely too heavy. Odd that it should hit 31 then only do 20 something, though. Have you tried kicking it and cursing at it? That usually doesn't help anything with my TaoTao 50 but it makes me feel better sometimes. When you cleaned the jets did you remove both the main and the pilot- running a fine piece of wire through all the holes? Check your gas line all the way from your tank, through the petcock and to where it connects to the carb. Replace any inline filters that are there (mine had 2- I assume 1 is aftermarket). Make sure the filter is installed going the correct direction inline- mine experienced a similar high speed issue and a new fuel filter solved the problem (and the old one was installed backwards- I didnt do it!).
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#. Same bbk, same intake but stock carb. an 
# was too much gas for my bike... ymmv.