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[replyingto=pmatulew]pmatulew[/replyingto]I didn't know there was a way to remove this nut OTHER than a large vise grip - lol.
Or you could try what I usually do which is throw it across the yard and curse at it. That might do the trick...

woah woah woah- I don't know if you have money to burn or are just ambitious for taking on a project but I think it would be A LOT EASIER to simply replace the stud than the head. I know, it probably snapped off near the head but before you spend money on something I dont think you need take a close look at the stud. Completely remove the exhaust first. If you have even a quarter inch of stud exposed you can remove it. Take that plastic off your engine- it's a cooling vent (of sorts) so be sure to replace it when you're done. Next spray a ton of PB Blaster, wd-40 or any other penetrating lube on there. I think PB blaster works best IMHO. Wait 15 minutes. Repeat. Now grab it with some vise grips (don't grab it stright on but come at it from the side so that the teeth on the vise grips can bite it)- really tight- and give it a turn. if it doesnt move don't tear it off, spray some more lube on and wait. It will come out. If the stud is broken off flush with the head THEN you might be better off going the new head route. Once you buy an extractor kit, penetrating lube, etc you might as well have bought a new head. Keep in mind, though, that if you plan on buying a bbk now is the time to do it- and you might also want a head with larger valves to improve performance. Just a thought. Aside from removing the head you shouldn't have to pull the motor to get the stud out. You can probably get under the bike while it's on the stand to do it. I have done a bbk install without pulling the motor but in hindsight it would have been less of a headache just to remove it. =) Edit: if you rethread you shouldn't need to pull the head either- just saying. The only reason I'd pull the head (and hence, the entire motor) is if I was going to replace the head. Remember- if you replace the head- CLEANLINESS is next to godliness. Don't get any dirt in your motor and make sure all the parts you put in are clean and the mating surfaces are free from oil, debris, etc. Keep a bottle of brakeclean on hand to spray off any parts, screws, etc you might drop during reinstall.
Studs with end nuts and a new washer ring can be had on ebay shipped for ~$8. I have some on the way now, I currently have the same problem.

After installing a bbk you'll really get the most performance gain out of CORRECTLY tuning your CVT. Sliders and a torque spring are the way to go. I put 1500rpm sliders (not rollers) and a yellow 1500rpm torque spring on mine along with yellow 1500rpm clutch springs and man does it run like a champ now. Your milage may vary- variator weighting and torque spring tuning has a lot to do with the weight of the rider and the rest of the engine tune but I'd start there and it's fairly inexpensive.
2. Performance cdi is only really gonna help if you have everything else tuned right. If you're not hitting your rev limiter then theres no reason to remove it. The "spark advance" thing is only up near top rpms...
4. Hot coil supplies a stronger spark. Questionable as far as performance gain- I think it'll just supply a more reliable spark. I have one in mine- a stronger spark is always good.
6 KeiHin is a good Tiawanese made carb (not cheap chinese). You need to get it properly jetted for your engine size and mods though. There are plenty of sites online to help with this but it's a tricky thing to do (but doable). I rock a stock size one with my 72cc (47mm) bbk. It works fine with a # main jet for me. I also have a k&n style short ram air filter.
7. I'd get your final drive trans gears last- once you have the enigne tuned and are simply looking for more top end then you can fit some quicker gears in.
8. The only performance cam that i'm aware of (and granted I havent searched extensively) is the A9 cam. This just has more aggressive lobes for more top end performance. I'm about to throw one in mine in the next week or so, I'll report back. Make sure you find a taiwanese made one, not a no name. Scrappydogscooters sells a good one.

Finally- I have had nothing but good experiences with Scrappydogscooters. Their prices are good although you can find some of their products cheaper elsewhere if you look. Sliders are actually cheaper if you buy them from scrappydogscooters on ebay rather than the webstore. By like $8- ebay store doesnt charge shipping. go figure. Anyway they shipped my stuff fast- their tech email responded in less than an hour and was helpful and when they shipped something I ordered to the wrong address (my fault) they shipped another one out the day i called even though they hadnt gotten the first one back. I have had nothing but good experiences with them- ftr.

Why are you saying that it is not in time? Does the engine turn over but it will not start? Are you using the electric start or the kick start? Once you install a big bore kit you not only have more engine to turn over but more compression to fight against it. If you're using the electric start then the battery could be too weak to start the motor- it may have started it fine with the smaller cylinder but with the increased compression it might be struggling. Did you remove the stator? You shouldnt have had to remove anything on that side of the engine to install the bbk- if it was good before it should still be good now... If you have the brass wheel with the timing marks lined up so the "T" is lined up with the notch on the case and the cam is lined up so that the 3 holes are at the top- the big one pointing straight up and the two little holes lined up witht the top of your head- then you should be in time. If you install it even one tooth off then the holes will not line up correctly and you would notice that it is wrong.

**Please note** in the picture scoots posted the engine DOES NOT appear to be at TDC- you want the notch on the case that sticks out (the part circled) lined up with the "T" that is printed on that black wheel. I dont know why the arrow is pointing at an "F" but that is not the correct mark for top dead center. Also the flywheel does not APPEAR to be lined up with anything in that picture so reference it only to get an idea of what marks we're talking about. =)

I need help testing my stator- anyone have experience? I have a TaoTao 50cc (72cc bbk installed) and it won't start. I don't want to just buy a new stator, cdi and coil just to find out that a wire got cut somewhere... I downloaded the 139qmb manual at the top of this forum but the wire colors don't match up. Just need to know where to look for output and what I should expect to see... I had a spare cdi and coil and replaced both but still no spark- I think the stator might be bad but (like I said) want to test it first before I replace it. Any help would be appreciated.

[replyingto=jeepsteve92xj]jeepsteve92xj[/replyingto]geh3333- I literally was just looking at this same tachometer. Hows it hook up? 12v power and a signal wire to the spark plug wire? How does the signal wire read the plug wire? Sit up next to it or do you have to splice it in or what?

[replyingto=gatekeeper]gatekeeper[/replyingto]Now that I read over your post again I have to agree with gatekeeper. When the bike dies coming to a stop it's usually valve adjustment related. Factory service manual wants valves adjusted every 1k miles or so- I do mine about 2k or as needed (you learn to start hearing them if they're loose but yours are probably too tight.). I'd check that too- it's easy, inexpensive and once you've done it once or twice you can do it in 10 minutes. All you'll need it a feeler gauge (cheap), an 8mm socket and ratchet and a little patience. Maybe a pair of pliers and a phillips head... no real tools required. The key is to make sure you get the valve lash correct. I normally insert the feeler guage of appropriate thickness in and tighten down the adjusting screw then tighten the lock nut with the feeler still in there. When you pull the feeler out you should feel *slight* resistance but you shouldnt have to yank on it. Do this for both valves and you should have set it correctly. Check the manual for correct valve lash... Report back and let us know what you figured out. =)