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Man I'm so glad I live in a state (NC) where you dont have to register a scooter. 50cc and under, that is, but a 150 with the "1" taken off is a 50cc as long as you arent doing 60mph on it. =) I would buy it, stolen or no- get a bill of sale to prove you bought it and be done with it. =) That's me, though. I've had several scooters stolen from me- and while yes, it sucks (and I would NEVER go steal one myself) I have 0 problems riding a scooter I purchased "for a great deal".

no. OK so I'm not being clear apparently. When I take off the trans cover- I have 2 pullys. The frontmost pully is the variator. I'm not talking about this. The rearmost pully has the clutch over it. Behind the clutch (under the clutch) there is another V type pully that seperates LIKE THE VARIATOR that the contra spring pushes against. What is this assembly called? It's bad and I need to replace it...

While all of the above is "technically" true- You would have had to be running hella lean to begin with for performance to decrease with a temp drop like that. The air does become denser- with more oxygen in it- in cooler temps but IDK if that is your issue. Adjusting the air/fuel on your carb should be a simple process- I would definately try that first. There are instructions on this forum (and all over the internet) on how to do it if you dont know. If that IS your issue- you should be happy because you may have just saved your motor from an untimely demise. =) I usually run mine just a hair rich and cool mornings my bike flies- probably because the mixture is running correctly. =)
On the sport exhaust issue- If your bike needs a new exhaust, I'd absolutley go for a performance replacement. They are as cheap or cheaper than a factory type replacement. You most likely wont notice any performance gains, but it might sound cooler and you'll feel cooler and hence- it will seem to go faster. =) If you want more pickup but the cops are stingy in your area go for variator weights. They are dirt cheap, albeit a pain in the to install if you dont have the correct tools. Lighter weights plus maybe a stiffer contra spring can get you up and moving quite a bit faster.
Back to the exhaust- a lot of "performance" exhausts you find online DO require light modifications to be done to install them. This would most likely consist of drilling a hole or holes into your frame for a mount. Not a big deal but you should just know in advance if it's a direct replacement or what.

Yeah the any machined parts like that- cams, cranks, etc can only be tested or measured with an outside micrometer. The differences are thousanths of an inch- definately not noticable to the naked eye. =) The A9 cam lobes open just a hair more, and not only that but more importantly at different times and for a longer time. This allows for more air to get in at higher rpms.

I wouldnt think larger than a #92 but try your # and see if it runs lean first... Do you have a high flow air filter? High flow exhaust?

[replyingto=alleyoop]alleyoop[/replyingto]not sure what an acv carb is but I know for a fact that the diaphram is good in the top (*edit* I just looked up an acv valve and yes I believe my carb has one- I have not inspected that diaphram but like i said the carb is brand new so it SHOULD not be bad... I thought that was a pump to squirt gas in when you hit the throttle as there is a rod connected to it I believe? Like the accelerator pump of a carb?. I've had it off several times since I've experienced the issue and it's in good shape. It's brand new (like 3 months old) too. I will check the line running from petcock- i read that suggestion a couple minutes ago in another of your posts. Also do you know what controls the enricher? Is there a temp sensor or something? The enricher itself is also brand new with the carb so if it's self contained I would not imagine it to be bad- it's a keihin carb so it's of higher quality... I'll leave the needle alone, though, thanks. How does that plug look to you? I ran it at WOT for about 30-45 seconds and hit the kill switch, slowed to a stop and pulled that (seriously HOT) sucker out and that's what it looked like. Little lean looking, no?

[replyingto=geh3333]geh3333[/replyingto]Well, I could be entirely wrong, but I think that the screw adjusts the amount of fuel that is delivered, rather than the air delivered. I'm also pretty sure that tightening the air/fuel mixture screw clockwise leans it out while counter-clockwise richens the mixture. If I'm wrong, please let me know as it would be as simple as upjetting but I think I remember experiencing the same problem with the # jet which is one size larger...