Freshman Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
Joined: Jul 27, 2013 19:40:42 GMT -5
|
Post by sickopsycho on Aug 30, 2013 23:12:21 GMT -5
FTR- I have a 50cc bigbored to a 72cc ("80cc" bbk). It is plenty for me- I weight 180lbs and can ride 40 uphill no problem. I live at the beach and the hills arent mountains, but before the bbk install the hills I'm referring to would bog me down to about 25 going up. I went the whole 9 yards and upjetted my carb, installed proper rollers (sliders) and a contra spring to match. Also a high flow air filter topped it off. It may be that a 2 stroke is good for you... Keeyway makes a 50cc 2 stroke that runs ~50mph bone stock and gets there in a hurry. If I was gonna shell out $2000 on a bike it would most likely be a 125 or 150 though. In my area (NC, USA) You can drive a 50cc on the roads without license, tags or insurance and the cheap factor is the reason I ride my small bike. If I thought I could get away with a 150 I would but instead I just upgraded mine as best I could. As far as parts are concerned- if your motor is a gy6 - 139qmb then all parts are easy to find for that bike. Ebay- it's the way to go and MUCH cheaper than any local dealer around here (who would just order online anyway). Hope that helps...
|
|
Freshman Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
Joined: Jul 27, 2013 19:40:42 GMT -5
|
Post by sickopsycho on Aug 7, 2013 19:38:08 GMT -5
Ten inch wheel scoots have 15 51 I reccomend 18 46 or 16 50 they both work well the 18 46 did better and the rumors about the hoca sets being too tall of a gear is false Ok but what do these numbers refer to? Number of teeth in the pinion gear and other gear or what? What is one step "up" from the stock gearset? When I say "up" I mean towards a higher topend... |
|
Freshman Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
Joined: Jul 27, 2013 19:40:42 GMT -5
|
Post by sickopsycho on Aug 7, 2013 19:35:37 GMT -5
[replyingto=ramblinman]ramblinman[/replyingto]Well- thanks for the link. I already ordered the magnets (they were $8 shipped for 2 fairly strong ones) so I'll try them and see. Reading the link you supplied, though, I found that it is LEGAL in North Carolina to run a redlight if it's not triggered. I'll do a little more research to make sure but I thought that I could get pulled for it. Thanks for the info!
:edit: If the magents dont work I'll stick them to the oilpan to trap any particulate metal. They should work REALLY well for that =)
|
|
Freshman Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
Joined: Jul 27, 2013 19:40:42 GMT -5
|
Post by sickopsycho on Aug 7, 2013 17:52:28 GMT -5
guess i'll be the tester. I'mm gonna order some and will report back with my results. =)
|
|
Freshman Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
Joined: Jul 27, 2013 19:40:42 GMT -5
|
Post by sickopsycho on Aug 7, 2013 17:51:33 GMT -5
yeah I tried stopping directly over wire- no dice. Also in my town at night on the smaller streets I could wait 4 hours and not see a car.
|
|
Freshman Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
Joined: Jul 27, 2013 19:40:42 GMT -5
|
Post by sickopsycho on Aug 7, 2013 17:45:02 GMT -5
Ok- So i did a ton of performance upgrades to my taotao 50cc- pretty much everything I can do without getting into much heavy stuff (porting head, big valves, etc). The ride is running sweet- but I still want more speed - isnt that always the case? I installed a bbk first (72cc), bought and installed a new keihin carb and upjetted. Put a performance air filter in place of the old airbox, installed an A9 cam (made a big difference), 6g sliders, 1500 rpm clutch springs and contra spring and a kevlar belt. She goes from a dead stop to speedo needle pegged in no time- even climbing lighter hills she pegs the speedo- so i have plenty of power to work with. I put a performace cdi on and hot coil as well. I think the only thing I can do to reliably get more speed at this point is final drive gears, but I dont know what the ones I have in it are and what to go up to. I'd only like to step it up one notch, I really dont want to lose MUCH low end power. Any advice? Where do I find the measurement of the gears I have? Do I need to open the case and count the teeth?
Also how restrictive is the stock exhaust on these bikes? I have a tachometer on the way but I dont think I'm getting too high in rpms... just wondering if my exhaust has now become a restriction from higher rpms and more speed. Like I said- I get up to 42-43 QUICK but then it seems to top out there...
|
|
Freshman Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
Joined: Jul 27, 2013 19:40:42 GMT -5
|
Post by sickopsycho on Aug 7, 2013 17:38:43 GMT -5
In order to test the cam to see if its good you would need to test for taper in the lobes, out of round in the shaft and the bearings. In order to do this you would need a dial guage at the very least that checks for this with a tolerance of something like 0.0001". Needless to say these measurements are extremely small so anything you can physically see or feel means it's way toast, not just bad. For this application your best bet is to just try it. Like what was said above, though, the 2 bearings should rotate with no resistance and you should feel no bumps or anything when you spin them- if you do, you might want to look at replacing them or the cam. The bearings are pressed on and CAN be replaced- but it might be more economically feasible to replace the entire cam if you experience this problem.
|
|
Freshman Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
Joined: Jul 27, 2013 19:40:42 GMT -5
|
Post by sickopsycho on Aug 7, 2013 17:25:31 GMT -5
Has anyone successfully used neodymium magnets on the bottom of their scooter to trip the stoplight sensors? I've heard it works and the science suggests the same (stoplight sensors sense the magnetic fluctuation of steel going over them to trip the light). Just looking for a confirmed users story- my bike rarely if ever trips these things and I hate running lights at night =)
|
|
Freshman Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
Joined: Jul 27, 2013 19:40:42 GMT -5
|
Post by sickopsycho on Aug 3, 2013 19:37:44 GMT -5
[replyingto=scootnwinn]scootnwinn[/replyingto]What he said. a backfire on decel means you're running too lean.
|
|
Freshman Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
Joined: Jul 27, 2013 19:40:42 GMT -5
|
Post by sickopsycho on Aug 2, 2013 20:18:06 GMT -5
Since the part you're describing isnt a "journal" meaning it isn't bearing that the cam rotates in you should be ok. I'm not sure how big the gouge is but if it's protruding at all it might keep the cam from seating properly leading to problems. If there is a part of the gouge that sticks up higher than the seat for the bearing I would look to smooth it out. Go to an auto parts store and get some crocus cloth or emory cloth. Ask them if you dont know what it is. DO NOT use sandpaper as it's not only too abbrasive but you dont want the $h1t to get inside your engine (the grit that comes off- even if it's fine fine fine and you clean it well). Rub the gouge with the crocus cloth and slowly but surely the ridge will come down. It may take an hour to do depending on the size of the ridge...Spray the assembly off with brake clean when you're done to remove any dirt or debris.
|
|
Freshman Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
Joined: Jul 27, 2013 19:40:42 GMT -5
|
Post by sickopsycho on Aug 2, 2013 20:12:27 GMT -5
If it was my bike, and I hadnt started it or turned it over excessively yet, I would tear it down and do it again. Look at it this way- however long it took you to do the first time it will probably take a little more than half as long the second =) The chain guide is a must, though. The rest you can probably get by with-
|
|
Freshman Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
Joined: Jul 27, 2013 19:40:42 GMT -5
|
Post by sickopsycho on Aug 2, 2013 20:05:44 GMT -5
Most of the 50cc bikes mount the starter relay under the seat pan on the frame. If you remove the seat follow look for a round box with 2 wires (black, red) and probably a rubber boot over it. It will have two screw studs holding the wires in place with nuts.
|
|
Freshman Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
Joined: Jul 27, 2013 19:40:42 GMT -5
|
Post by sickopsycho on Aug 2, 2013 20:03:31 GMT -5
[replyingto=scoots]scoots[/replyingto]sailracer is right- set your multimeter to ohms on the lowest setting and touch the two leads with the wires unplugged. You should get maybe 1 ohm of resistance (0-4 is ok). Another check you could do (what i always do) is pull the plug (or use a spare) and ground the plug to the valve cover then look for a spark arcing over the plug. Just make sure your valve cover isnt greasy or too dirty (so it's truely grounded)- just touch the threads of the plug to the valve cover. If you're not getting spark the next place I would look would be the cdi- I've gone through a ton of these and no coils... the stator is another thing i'd think of as last resort...
|
|
Freshman Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
Joined: Jul 27, 2013 19:40:42 GMT -5
|
Post by sickopsycho on Aug 2, 2013 19:58:06 GMT -5
I'm not sure if the coil can "overheat". It's a solid state device and they tend to either work or not work. I would look towards trash in carb or possibly wiring issue. Since you have a spare coil it wont hurt to try swapping it out. Those things are pretty powerful, though. Even with a loose connection that spark in the secondary ignition will simply arc over and still reach where it wants to go. I would think that if it's working at all then it's working properly. Again- trash in the carb, maybe? Does your bike have a fuel pump? Possibly it's going out?
|
|
Freshman Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
Joined: Jul 27, 2013 19:40:42 GMT -5
|
Post by sickopsycho on Aug 2, 2013 19:50:53 GMT -5
Here's what you need to do- ride a few miles and change the oil again. You most likely have some gasoline still in there but on the bright side have a REALLY clean engine internally. =) Doesnt sound like you did too much damage but hopefully you didnt wear the bearings or anything too bad. From what you're describing it sounds like you had the gas line connected to where a vacuum line SHOULD have been. It was sucking gasoline directly into the engine, hence why the engine was full of gas, not oil. The oil you drained- did it seem like there was too much? Was it a lot lighter than motor oil should be? Was it VERY thin? With the gas line running to the wrong place your carb wasnt getting gas- which would explain why it wasnt running well- it sounds like when it did run it was running entirely on fuel that slipped by the piston rings. YIKES! Let us know how its going...
|
|
