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Post by nwhicks21 on Aug 1, 2013 14:08:19 GMT -5
I just got my new 50mm airsal kit and it didn't have very good directions, I looked on YouTube and can't find a video reference with sound so can someone please direct me to a video that can help me with assembly in my new kit that had sound? My main concerns are the poison rings which aren't marked, and getting the timing right.
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Aug 1, 2013 15:25:04 GMT -5
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Post by sickopsycho on Aug 1, 2013 20:43:51 GMT -5
If you can post CLEAR pictures of the rings I can help. Timing is easy. My bbk can with NO directions- but ring installation is fairly universal. There should be 5 piston rings. 2 compression rings (the thick ones) and 3 oil control rings (2 thin ones and a wavy one). The oil control rings all go on the bottom slot. Be careful installing all rings, they can break easily. The wavy oil control ring probably has notches on the inside where the thinner oil rings sit on it. It will install with the 2 thin ones outside the wavy one (like a sandwich where the thin rings are the bread). First put some assembly lube (or 2-cycle oil, or clean motor oil if all else fails) on the rings and the piston grooves. Next install the oil control rings- making sure the thin ones remain outside the the wavy one. Next install the compression rings- IMPORTANT! there should be one compression ring that is either silver or that has a silver edge, or has some writing on it. This one MUST BE THE TOP RING! If there is any writing on ANY of the rings make sure the writing is installed facing UP (towards the top of the piston). ALSO VERY IMPORTANT! make sure when you install the piston into the cylinder that the ring gaps (the space where the ring is open) are 180 degrees apart. One compression end gap should be on one side, the other on the opposite side. The oil control ring doesnt matter so much. Now- timing- Before you disassemble the engine set it to Top Dead Center (TDC). Remove the valve cover and the flywheel cover (the cover opposite the variator). On the flywheel (the brass thing with a fan over it) there are some marks- some lines with one having a "T" next to it. Rotate the flywheel by hand so that the "t" mark lines up with the notch in the engine casing that sticks out at approximately 9:00 on the case. Look at the cam sprocket- there should be 3 holes in it- one big one and 2 little ones. The big hole should be facing straight up and the 2 little ones should be lined up with the top of your head. Boom- you're at tdc. When you reassemble simply make sure that the brass wheel is in the same place (T mark lined up) and the cam sprocket is lined up the same way. If you are even one tooth off with your chain it will be obvious. Rotate the engine by hand before you start it to make sure there is no interference and you're good to go. =)
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Post by nwhicks21 on Aug 1, 2013 21:31:52 GMT -5
Ok well I got anxious and went ahead and put it together, I know I did the rings right except I may not have put the writing facing upward, how well that effect my engine if one or more of them are upside down? And I didn't pay attention to the timing marks or anything when I took it apart but I put it back together with all the marks lined up correctly, I took the bottom plastic piece that was just like the top part of chain tensioner but the bottom(long black piece) took it completely out because it didn't want to go back in and didn't seem that important. So what kind if trouble am I looking at from piston rings, taking apart without timing lined up, and removing bottom plastic timing chain piece?
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Post by sickopsycho on Aug 1, 2013 22:08:17 GMT -5
[replyingto=nwhicks21]nwhicks21[/replyingto]You need to put the chain guide back in (long black piece). It's important or it wouldnt be there. It sits UNDER the gasket in a little notched area with the two stubs sitting in there- if that makes sense. Make sure you reset the chain tensioner- you push the little clip in and slide the toothed piece all the way in, install it THEN screw the spring in. Check this link out, read it carefully and see if you missed anything. ebay.globaldc.com/scooterparts/borekits/100ccGY6/install/bbk.htmlDid one of the compression rings have ANY silver on it? even just the edge? This one needs to go on top with the edge thats silver facing up (if it has a "side"). This is important- the writing should be facing up, too, but the silver ring actually helps to "wear in" the rings to the cylinder and while it may work or run improperly installed, it might suffer in the long run. Also were the end gaps installed opposing each other on the piston rings? VERY IMPORTANT! The timing shouldnt matter as long as it is assembled in time. Make sure you hand crank it (just spin the flywheel or variator by hand) before you put the starter or kickstart to it. If there is interference you wont mess it up hand cranking it.
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Post by nwhicks21 on Aug 1, 2013 23:32:03 GMT -5
There was a thick silver one I put on top, the dark one second, and then the thin/spring/thin rings all in that order, I started with the ring opening in the side of piston (not by wrist pin hike) and went 180° every other ring. Im pretty sure they're in correct order, just don't know if it matters and how much that I may not have put them in with the letters facing upward..btw the only ones that had an imprint were top two rings which each had a single R printed on them. so is it really worth me tearing all the way back apart to put in the bottom chain guide and make sure to rings are facing up? How important is that
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Post by pmatulew on Aug 2, 2013 5:34:31 GMT -5
D8 Yes, the chain guide is that important. Put it back where it belongs.
The rings? maybe. Some rings are manufactured with the inside edge beveled so that when the combustion gasses hit the bevel from the top side, it will actually force the ring outward so that it seals better. If it's upside down it can't work like it supposed to.
The manual I was reading when I assembled my motor actually said the ring gaps should be staggered at 120 degree angles and never aligned with the wrist pin. As long as they are spread out they're probably fine. It's a BBK anyway. You're going to be blowing it up and rebuilding it before too long anyhow.
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Post by geh3333 on Aug 2, 2013 5:46:52 GMT -5
your right 120degress not 180 . the gaps lined up like the edges of the top of a V with the pin lined up fron ledt to right. if u understand that
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Post by pmatulew on Aug 2, 2013 11:45:26 GMT -5
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Post by pmatulew on Aug 2, 2013 11:51:55 GMT -5
The pdf of the manual is posted right here on this very forum.
itistheride/50 to 200/50 to 200 air cooled/"help for air cooled" (it's a sticky even)/service manuals/50cc 139qmb gy6/page 64
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Post by nwhicks21 on Aug 2, 2013 17:41:10 GMT -5
So the oil rings only go 30 degrees apart?
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Post by sickopsycho on Aug 2, 2013 20:12:27 GMT -5
If it was my bike, and I hadnt started it or turned it over excessively yet, I would tear it down and do it again. Look at it this way- however long it took you to do the first time it will probably take a little more than half as long the second =) The chain guide is a must, though. The rest you can probably get by with-
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