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Post by sickopsycho on Sept 2, 2014 21:25:43 GMT -5
I have a TaoTao 50cc bike. I put the 72cc bbk on it, big valve head, A9 cam, slider rollers, hot springs, etc. The entire big is built for performance- and it will fly when it runs right. So my bike sat for a while and the gas gelled up inside the carb. I cleaned it out- jets and all- but it kept cutting off on me. I swapped carbs to see if that was the problem and it fixed it. Only thing is the carb I stuck on there is a 150cc carb. It took a little finess to get it in there but man does it scream with this carb. So I want to keep the carb but have a question about tuning it. I don't know what size jet it has in it but it's visually got a larger hole than the # I had in my 50cc carb so I know it's probably running rich. I have not done a plug chop to confirm, but when the engine is not at full operating temp it hesitates real bad on acceleration. If I give it WOT I get dead missing. Would this be a result of a lean or rich condition? I would think because it has so much more space for air to move through then potentially at WOT it doesnt have enough vaccum to pull fuel through the jet... but that's why I'm asking. It's real confusing- because when then bike is hot it runs like a banshee. Runs great, no hessitation on acceleration... pulls like a horse. Will even break the rear wheel free now (if I hold the front brake and ram down the front, obviously). Anyway I dont know if anyone else has tried this, or has any input. It would be greatly appreciated- any help. Ok question #2- charging. It's not. I want to say that before my bike sat I tried replacing the diode rectifier but it wasnt with a new one so I don't know that I accomplished anything. I have a 3 wire stator- I ohmed out the 2 wires to the green one and they are fine (~1ohm each). I did a running test and got ~25va/c at each one. I did not get much of an increase when I snapped the throttle but I didnt wind the motor up much either. It is outputting voltage though. Does it need to be putting out more voltage or should i test further? Or should I look elsewhere? Another symptom is that as my battery dies all my lights start dimming (other than the a/c powered headlamp). Should I disconnect my battery while the bike is running I will have NO LIGHTS at all except for my headlamp. The brake/rear lights, the entire dash (guages and all) go out and my turn indicators dont work. I have a dc cdi- is this normal or is this indicitive of a bad charging system? I obviously checked for voltage at the battery while it is running and I DO NOT have charging voltage (which I would assume to be ~13-14v D/C). Any help on EITHER of these 2 issues would be GREATLY appreciated. I'm a do it yourself kinda guy but I'm broke and can't afford to just buy a new stator and see if that fixes the problem. Thanks!
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Freshman Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
Joined: Jul 27, 2013 19:40:42 GMT -5
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Post by sickopsycho on Sept 3, 2014 23:06:00 GMT -5
No interest in this thread, huh? Think I have Tue carb tuned as well as I can. Still hesitates a little cold. I'll chalk it up to just having to warm the bike up first. Wondering about my stator still, though. Unhooki g my battery every night to put it on the charger sucks. =(
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Post by alleyoop on Sept 3, 2014 23:41:10 GMT -5
If revving it up and the stator is not putting out more than 50+VAC then your stator is bad, also not charging can also be that your regulator/rectificer is bad but you won't know that until the stator puts out, then you can test to see if the r/r is putting out at least 13+ volts to the battery to charge it. And you say your CDI is DC how do you know that, MOST are AC CDIs? Do you know how to find out if your CDI is DC or AC? To find out test the bottom wire on the 2 plug of the CDI with a multi meter or a 12V light tester, if with a multi meter if it registers 12volts you have a DC CDI if NADA you have a AC CDI, if using a 12v light tester if it lights up it is a DC CDI if it does not light up you have a AC CDI. Alleyoop
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Post by geh3333 on Sept 4, 2014 18:57:36 GMT -5
Keep the bigger carb , I've always said a bigger carb will improve performance if done right . And your another one to prove this . I use a 32mm pumper carb on my 150 and it takes the performance up another notch . Way to go .
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Post by alleyoop on Sept 4, 2014 20:41:06 GMT -5
The 24mm carbs usually come with a #35 Pilot jet and a Main Jet anywhere from 103-107. Alleyoop
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Post by geh3333 on Sept 4, 2014 21:35:28 GMT -5
I have a TaoTao 50cc bike. I put the 72cc bbk on it, big valve head, A9 cam, slider rollers, hot springs, etc. The entire big is built for performance- and it will fly when it runs right. So my bike sat for a while and the gas gelled up inside the carb. I cleaned it out- jets and all- but it kept cutting off on me. I swapped carbs to see if that was the problem and it fixed it. Only thing is the carb I stuck on there is a 150cc carb. It took a little finess to get it in there but man does it scream with this carb. So I want to keep the carb but have a question about tuning it. I don't know what size jet it has in it but it's visually got a larger hole than the # I had in my 50cc carb so I know it's probably running rich. I have not done a plug chop to confirm, but when the engine is not at full operating temp it hesitates real bad on acceleration. If I give it WOT I get dead missing. Would this be a result of a lean or rich condition? I would think because it has so much more space for air to move through then potentially at WOT it doesnt have enough vaccum to pull fuel through the jet... but that's why I'm asking. It's real confusing- because when then bike is hot it runs like a banshee. Runs great, no hessitation on acceleration... pulls like a horse. Will even break the rear wheel free now (if I hold the front brake and ram down the front, obviously). Anyway I dont know if anyone else has tried this, or has any input. It would be greatly appreciated- any help. Ok question #2- charging. It's not. I want to say that before my bike sat I tried replacing the diode rectifier but it wasnt with a new one so I don't know that I accomplished anything. I have a 3 wire stator- I ohmed out the 2 wires to the green one and they are fine (~1ohm each). I did a running test and got ~25va/c at each one. I did not get much of an increase when I snapped the throttle but I didnt wind the motor up much either. It is outputting voltage though. Does it need to be putting out more voltage or should i test further? Or should I look elsewhere? Another symptom is that as my battery dies all my lights start dimming (other than the a/c powered headlamp). Should I disconnect my battery while the bike is running I will have NO LIGHTS at all except for my headlamp. The brake/rear lights, the entire dash (guages and all) go out and my turn indicators dont work. I have a dc cdi- is this normal or is this indicitive of a bad charging system? I obviously checked for voltage at the battery while it is running and I DO NOT have charging voltage (which I would assume to be ~13-14v D/C). Any help on EITHER of these 2 issues would be GREATLY appreciated. I'm a do it yourself kinda guy but I'm broke and can't afford to just buy a new stator and see if that fixes the problem. Thanks! Sorry sicko I didn't answer your carb question , you def need to check the plug . A little rich is ok and I doubt your running lean , but you do not want to be running to rich . If your not bogging down at wot then you may just need to get the carb tuned in correctly . When it hesitates on acceleration , do you wait for the auto choke to disengage ? As for the dead spot , do you mean the scoot cuts out or there's no more throttle pickup ? There is a little trick you can do that may solve both the hesitation when cold and the dead throttle pickup . When it comes to your bigger carb , it will actually pull more fuel at wot then a smaller carb . Let's say you have the same main jet in your stock carb and the bigger carb . The bigger carb will pull more fuel through the main jet then the smaller carb at wot . Keep us posted
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