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Post by xxwoodmanxx on Sept 30, 2013 19:10:59 GMT -5
old school Helix/Fashion/Commuter looking scooter? I have one as well. I can go and look for you if so.
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Post by xxwoodmanxx on Sept 30, 2013 16:08:14 GMT -5
The links you provided help a TON! Thanx, spandi! Now I just need to determine if I have an AC or a DC CDI.  EDIT: Would that be determined by whether or not I have "square'ish" plugs in my CDI, or "round'ish" plugs going into it? |
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Post by xxwoodmanxx on Sept 29, 2013 22:57:27 GMT -5
Man,....performance parts for this is quite a bit more than my old GY6 150cc. Whew.
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Post by xxwoodmanxx on Sept 29, 2013 16:11:19 GMT -5
Looks good, but I cannot click on attached image. Fails to enlarge. But nice job!
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Post by xxwoodmanxx on Sept 29, 2013 15:54:26 GMT -5
Looking to see what are some of the best upgrades for my water-cooled CN250 motor. Thx!
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Post by xxwoodmanxx on Sept 29, 2013 15:42:30 GMT -5
Thx! Yeah, I felt I had to drill out the stock muffler a bit to get a little more sound out of it. It was whisper-quiet, and the only way I could really tell I was accelerating as hard as I was is because of how much harder the wind was blowing. lol Good news is, I got a TON of new parts with this thing, too. an entire new set of CF Fashion plastics, brand new starter solenoid, fusebox, 30mm keihin carb w/ elec enricher circuit, new mirrors, new left and right handlebar switch assemblies. Gotta say, I made out like a bandit on this trade |
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Post by xxwoodmanxx on Sept 29, 2013 11:10:36 GMT -5
WOOHOO! Figured it out. It was the side-stand switch got pulled off in the wreck. I pulled the center plastic off over the gas tank, and there she be! The side-stand plug was sitting there with nothing to it. Shorted and soldered the ground wire that leads back to the solenoid, and she purred to life!! After sitting for 4-5 months, she's ALIIIIIIIIVE!!!!
((*
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Post by xxwoodmanxx on Sept 29, 2013 10:00:35 GMT -5
Recently traded for a 2005 CFMoto Fashion 250 w/ only 180 miles on it. Got it from a woman who was cut off and landed the bike in a grass ditch @ 20mph. lots of dirty/cracked plastics but the bike is in great mechanical condition. But she's not firing the starter. All the connections that lead down to the starter relay look OK. When I turn the key on, the lights and dash light up, I can head the fuel pump kick on, and she's ready to go. But when I press the rear brake down, and hit the start button, all lights go out, telling me there's some sort of short? There is also no "click" coming from the starter solenoid, so it's not getting the sending voltage from the start button? The giant connection block under the dash looks like a real PITA to troubleshoot if I have a bad wire somewhere. It was dropped in a ditch, so I will inspect and see if the side-stand switch was busted/sheered off. Any ideas would be appreciated. Again, cliff notes: - Ignition ON turns on all lights and fuel pump - starter solenoid LOOKS good. Have replacement if need-be. - hit start switch, all lights go out and nothing happens -  ?? |
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Post by xxwoodmanxx on Sept 15, 2013 8:58:26 GMT -5
Here's the video. Some of you are probably very familiar with this, and do it all the time, much like myself:
I purchased a large adj. wrench from harbor freight for $16 or so, and it's all I ever use. Breaks it loose every single time. My recommendation is to wear gloves tho when u hold the wrench over the clutch nut, as you might get pinched when you smack it. (rookie mistake, will NEVER do that again. lol)
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Post by xxwoodmanxx on Aug 4, 2013 7:48:03 GMT -5
I don't see where you would have an issue. I have used it in oil on autos to free sticky lifters. Jim Sounds good. And with that, I'm going to throw a little in there and take it for a spin before the oil change later today  |
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Post by xxwoodmanxx on Aug 2, 2013 21:41:10 GMT -5
The 'hygroscopic' nature of ethanol pulls moisture out of the air(in your tank, in your gas can, etc) which is why I add some to my tank, as well as to any 5 gal cans in my garage.
My big question is, has anyone here added any to your oil before changing your oil, much like recommendations for autos? I'm going to change my oil in my scoot this weekend, and was thinking on adding just under an oz. (for a 750ml sump) and take it for a spin for a few miles to get it generously ran through the entire case.
Negatives? Any reasons why I should not?
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Post by xxwoodmanxx on Jul 23, 2013 20:25:39 GMT -5
No. If you were rich, your electrodes and ceramic would be black/brown and caked-on soot. Lean would have white-ish electrodes, showing that you are actually burning the metal.
You are currently a tad-bit lean.
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Post by xxwoodmanxx on Jul 21, 2013 14:42:46 GMT -5
Honestly? I would just get a can of Starter Fluid and look to getting it to roll over first and foremost. Just remove the air filter inlet from the carb and spray directly into the carb throat. Not TOO much vause you don't want to burn up your rings or cylinder wall. Just ensure your A/F screw is set 2-2.5 turns out, and adjust your idle accordingly. THEN if it doesn't start, troubleshoot accordingly.
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Post by xxwoodmanxx on Jul 15, 2013 16:44:23 GMT -5
Hard to tell, really. I just dremeled and polished both ends of the carb, taking it all the way out to the casting's edge, while still maintaining it's strength. Probably didn't do a thing, seeing that the butterfly on the carb is still the stock diameter. heh
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Post by xxwoodmanxx on Jul 15, 2013 4:49:36 GMT -5
Yup! I used the blue ones in the attached pic. How does yours run with the 120 jet??? Is yours a 'P' motor?? I've been wondering if I should go up in size just to see... though I'd think I'd have blown up long ago if I was that lean!! What size jet are you running right now? I actually moved down to a #115 main jet and re-tuned my A/F back to 2.5 turns. |
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