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Post by dyoung1167 on Nov 9, 2024 13:37:48 GMT -5
cool deal, glad to be of some help
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Post by dyoung1167 on Jun 20, 2023 16:59:56 GMT -5
thinking your float adjustment was the wrong way and does not stop flow when float bowl is full
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Post by dyoung1167 on Jul 12, 2022 11:32:16 GMT -5
check pulley alignments. I had a terrible time with belts on my first scoot seldom lasting more than 2 months. after dealing with it for about 18 months i got another and they were parked side by side that caused me to notice the pulleys on the old were not directly in line with each other and the belts are of course not meant for that kind of wear/use
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Post by dyoung1167 on Sept 5, 2021 14:19:46 GMT -5
I have had a similar type of deal where i noticed thee jets being shorter aand very hard to get a good tune. is there a given length that I should be looking to use on a typical factory 150cc carb (not jet size itself as i know to play around that way). I've ordered a feww diff carbs and finally a set of jets but now i don't which was which from the originally good running carb after a couple yrs of this and that and i tend to just get by before trying again. even the pilot jet seems short.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Apr 4, 2021 15:23:39 GMT -5
they are a shitty design but the easiest way is to simply remove the dangly screw piece and fold the line over to pinch the line shut and use some tape or twist tie or even a zip tie, what ever floats your boat to keep it folded
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Post by dyoung1167 on Dec 5, 2020 16:26:37 GMT -5
it is a ground but where it's grounded does not really matter. just use the easiest point you can find, which probably would be with the one on the valve cover. The one already on the valve cover simply grounds the engine to the frame because of the rubber mounts isolate it and definitely needs to stay.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Dec 16, 2019 14:49:00 GMT -5
Yeah, I know lean gets to popping (backfire) and it's more the low end so I'm thinking my idle jet is a touch small and ran fine (still with backfire) for a couple of weeks with just open pipe where the muffler flange broke off while waiting the muffler and new header, this started about 3/4 days after the new exhaust that actually adds zero more backpressure than it was without. Seems oddly missfiring or something as it is not an even/steady sound, not counting backfire. also seems nice and even when first started though not necessarilly after giving throttle but a little irregular after warmed up even at idle. I've had pick-up coils go, but they just go as in runs then doesn't. no inbetween for me yet but that doesn't mean it isn't possible. Maybe I'll pull the flywheel and give it a look see as I have heard (long in the past) about dust and crap fouling the magnet or something to that effect. Going to try one the (high tech/performance though probably not really with the oddly even good bad reviews) cdi's I just received today.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Dec 7, 2019 16:26:46 GMT -5
I really really hate the style of boot that comes with these that only has the little spring wire to grip the tiny threaded end of the plug. I am having a hard time locating one like a car style (snap on) cap so i used one from a car ( and yes I added the hourglass style adapter to the plug). seemed great at first but I was also dealing with cheap crap muffler that fell apart after a week so the first bit of use of the plug wire was with straight header exhaust without muffler and seemed ok, now the new muffler wich really has no more resistance or backpressure (just takes the loud cracking sound out but doesn't really muffle the overall loudness) anyway, i now seem to have a bit of inconsistent spark/firing that i now hear and feel but didn't when no muffler at all. is the style of wire on my new plugwire ok or possibly a different resistance than the coil normaly expects to see or something? I know i need to address a bit of running lean but......?
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Post by dyoung1167 on Jul 7, 2018 16:33:30 GMT -5
use the pressure that works for you. the back tire needs to stay "full and round meaning barely any squash effect" while sitting on it and the front not carrying the weight of the rear will usually take a few pounds less. enough to again stay round but not so hard that its like just riding on the rim. Mine for instance are 13's - rear at 34psi and front around 28. remember those tires are considered part of the suspension.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Apr 20, 2018 22:20:44 GMT -5
sounds to me like you have too little slack in your throttle cable keeping some tension allowing it to sort of retract slightly
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Post by dyoung1167 on Apr 1, 2018 11:39:31 GMT -5
I had one and it was basically junk. I suppose there is a chance it was ok but the only thing I could find out is charging is different between the two kinds so our regulators aren't meant for lion and so not really compatible, but oddly enough I haven't seen anyone selling a r/r meant for them either so it is confusing.
Maybe the good ones have the needed circuitry built in and it doesn't matter much, but mine didn't take a charge from day 1. lasted about 3 days, just long enough to use up what charge it came with. I did get a good lead acid replacement free from the seller without hassle but my dumbass forgot to ask for the difference in price be also refunded. Oh well.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Dec 12, 2017 13:40:20 GMT -5
nothing even close to a 50 style starter clutch unfortunately, else it would have been tackled easily, even a normal 150 is relatively easy compared to this water cooled engine. In the end it may turn out easier than I think but it is definitely much much more involved.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Dec 11, 2017 22:46:21 GMT -5
don't weld it, that happens to need to come off when putting fresh rubber on. worst comes to worst if trying to drill it out and you mess up the threads yadayadayada, through bolt it with a self locking nut and a bolt just long enough to make use of said nut.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Dec 11, 2017 22:28:20 GMT -5
I get all you say fully, but these aren't on the drive side accessible and seen by just taking the belt cover off. these are on the right side in the oil with spring loaded roller pins that wedge themselves (with the help of springs) when the starter turns and like when you stop pedaling a ten speed, the starter stops turning, they disengage.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Dec 9, 2017 19:50:10 GMT -5
yarr, I have my meter and could very well do that. I've only been an electrician for going on 30 yrs. duh to me, haha.
now you mention it, since the starter would actually become a generator I could get a reading on both ends of this problem. Any voltage on the starter lead after running will at least confirm if it is spinning.
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