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Post by dyoung1167 on Mar 31, 2017 8:28:04 GMT -5
get a small oil pump can, don't know the name but has a trigger and small tube, makes getting the gear oil in that damn small filler hole quite easy.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Mar 31, 2017 8:23:38 GMT -5
cdi would be the next culprit in line for no spark, but i have had problems with the coil on the stator that feeds the cdi go bad. not in a position to get into diagnosing but you should find a vid to show you pretty easy.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Mar 5, 2017 10:33:31 GMT -5
and i forgot to mention that your idol is too high. the rear wheel should not turn when on the center stand while idoling. this will glaze the pads that act as your clutch, meaning that when not on the stand the wheel can't turn yet they are still in contact with the bell and create unwanted heat, wear, glazing and give you a very jerky start after a while because they won't be able to grip as effectively as intended.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Mar 4, 2017 11:58:18 GMT -5
3 carbs, huh. that is confusing, as i have had the e-clip somehow come off of my needle and of course would not lift on throttle and try to die. all air no fuel. that said the first bit (say about a quarter or so) of throttle is all idle or low speed jet and with no load on the engine it seems to rev well as in your vid, after that the vacuum operated main jet needle gets in the picture. something to do with vacuum such as the one line that goes to the carb clogged or broken, or main jet/needle is not allowing the fuel needed for higher revs. so 3 carbs later i'm leaning toward a vacuum issue.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Mar 4, 2017 11:39:39 GMT -5
I went through it the reverse. I'm thinking your original uses an ungrounded stator and the new one is grounded. this blew all and i mean ALL of my bulbs after running it a few minuntes (again, the reverse of yours as my original was a grounded stator) and attempting figure out why my headlights would go on only at first then dim down to nothing. after a few trouble shooting starts no lights at all. look up diagrams for the two styles and use a meter to check grounds. on one you will get a few ohms between the 2 power windings and the ground wire on the connector to the stator, the other style will read open (no continuity) to ground. also be sure to replace the the r/r with the one that came with your new engine to ensure they match, something i did not do because they looked the same but the grounding circuit for the ungrounded stator is in the r/r and that was ultimately what blew my bulbs.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Dec 30, 2016 14:56:15 GMT -5
are they regular headlights or the "projector" style, having a small dome type lens? if so they are "projected" at different angles to get high and low beam and are meant to be only one or the other.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Dec 10, 2016 14:33:20 GMT -5
try a tractor/agricultural such as "agrisupply here in nc" best selection of grade 8 stuff anywhere (metric and standard) and way cheaper. ford wanted something along the lines of 15 bucks a bolt for my mustang and found them them there for 4 or 5 something and change
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Post by dyoung1167 on Nov 6, 2016 22:46:32 GMT -5
i like both thoughts and may do it, but it isn't broken. i know the pic may look a bit dirty but it is chromed, the center flat and the sides perfectly angled and not a single scratch, grove or tool mark.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Nov 6, 2016 14:01:58 GMT -5
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Post by dyoung1167 on Nov 6, 2016 13:46:52 GMT -5
this is all to find why i cannot get more than maybe three fires and it stops dead. just wanted to have a look at the cylinder but talking with the guy i bought ti from (not sure he is giving me the straight goop considering he didn't say anything about this when i bought it) but he said maybe it was in the starter clutch and i guess it could very well be. i hate to close it up without replacing the gaskets but right now it is my only choice until i can get that off. meaning i am going in the side and checking the starter clutch, another post mention a peice that could be out of whack for a different problem but not entirely so.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Nov 6, 2016 13:35:36 GMT -5
ok, had a hard time getting a pic on here but here it is  |
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Post by dyoung1167 on Nov 6, 2016 13:22:06 GMT -5
going to remove the intake manifold on qlink peg. the other side is of course a regular bolt but this has no gripping edge, no marks lilke someone just messed it, in fact it is chromed. i couldn't tell ya how it was even tightened.
has anyone run into this and am i just missing something? some odd trick? i even tried to turn the whole thing hoping to maybe loosen it but not willing to try to hard and break anything.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Nov 6, 2016 9:07:36 GMT -5
i'm working one and i really dig what to me is way better built. plus these are rated at 12 something hp vs 9 something on most air cooled gy6's. can't wait for it to up and running.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Aug 21, 2016 7:25:26 GMT -5
the easiest and cheapest way is to use a clear piece of tubing, such as fuel line. the whole idea behind loosen tighten loosen of the bleeder is because if it's open when you release the brake it will suck air back in. put the tube on the bleeder and make it long enough to go up a few inches and then down to hang lower than the brake caliper (preferably) into a catch can. you will be able to see any and all air bubbles as they exit and once they are a little ways from the bleeder there is enough fluid that the bubbles will not travel far enough backwards when releasing the brake lever to be reintroduced to the system. extremely easy and can also be used too make bleeding car breaks a one man job also.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Jun 25, 2016 11:23:22 GMT -5
just acquired a cfmoto pegasus 150 and i am having trouble finding the vin#. unlike most of the scoots i am familiar with it does not have the little plastic cover to the frame in the front of the footwell, and i can't seem to locate where the vin might be. can anyone point me to where they put it on these scoots?
also, any idea where i can download a service manual (free)?
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