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Post by dyoung1167 on Jun 25, 2016 11:19:51 GMT -5
it just dawned on me that there is a separate water cooled part of this forum so i am heading over there.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Jun 25, 2016 11:17:05 GMT -5
just acquired a cfmoto pegasus 150 and i am having trouble finding the vin#. unlike most of the scoots i am familiar with it does not have the little plastic cover to the frame in the front of the footwell, and i can't seem to locate where the vin might be. can anyone point me to where they put it on these scoots?
also, any idea where i can download a service manual (free)?
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Post by dyoung1167 on Jun 1, 2016 7:15:43 GMT -5
ok, thanks.
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Post by dyoung1167 on May 30, 2016 22:47:46 GMT -5
can i ask how that works?
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Post by dyoung1167 on May 30, 2016 8:55:10 GMT -5
also, does anyone know the true stock size? found three sizes and of course they all say they fit most 50cc gy6's. going to measure but as i'm sitting here waiting to go to work i thought i'd ask.
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Post by dyoung1167 on May 30, 2016 8:40:54 GMT -5
i agree with JerryScript, typically the lighter weight will give you a little better take-off and heavier a little higher top speed, so it is all in how you would like it to be. as said, give 'em both a go and stick with what floats your scoot.
also, if you find you like both but want a middle version you can use three of each. just be sure alternate weights around the variator so there is no out of balance issue
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Post by dyoung1167 on May 30, 2016 8:26:03 GMT -5
quite familiar with 150's, but i am currently working on a 50cc with carb problems. i have cleaned it several times as it sat for a year or so and apparently had water in the tank causing a mess. after said cleanings i can't get it to go beyond about 8mph and have givin up on the carb, just going to order a new one. anyway, the 150's have a decelerator valve/diaphragm on the side near the top for when letting off full thottle , when looking up 50cc versions they are calling a similar small diaphragm but with a plunger on the bottom of the carb an "accelerator pump"?
i'm guessing wordage is just a bit messed up or confused but is this or is this not the relative equivalent to whats on the 150 and work about the same way, allowing a touch of extra fuel through when the throttle is suddenly reduced to zero so it doesn't stall out?
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Post by dyoung1167 on May 1, 2016 12:26:32 GMT -5
you are missing the lower half of the plastic engine cover which also directs the cooling air around it. i hope people don't think i am trying to push a supplier (i just use them and know they have what you're needing) but www.scrappydogscooters.com/125_150_4-STROKE_PARTS.html scroll down to "150 cooling shroud kit"
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Post by dyoung1167 on May 1, 2016 12:11:19 GMT -5
that stator is an ungrounded version, where your old was grounded. you need to get a matching regulator/rectifier. i went through the exact thing when i replaced my engine with "kit" that had r/r, starter relay, blinker relay etc, but only changed the motor considering everything else was fine. unfortunately the r/r they sent had different connector so i had to order a 4 wire. my lights did EXACTLY what yours is and after plenty of diagnosing it eventually burned out every bulb on the ac side of things, headlights, dash lights, and tail light. www.scrappydogscooters.com/COMMON_PARTS.html , scroll down to Floating ground regulator rectifier #02. you can look elsewhere of course but they seem to be the only seller i found to actually list whether or not it is a floating ground version or not (they have both).
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Post by dyoung1167 on May 1, 2016 11:44:58 GMT -5
look very closely at the installation diagram/pic for the sliders. i would have sworn i did it right the first time and had problems. it was after a few redos that i realized some very subtle differences in the slider profile and i had one or two upside down or backwards or some such. it was a while ago.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Mar 6, 2016 12:12:53 GMT -5
as was mentioned the bowl float valve is not sealing and that is the only reason you see gas flow from the OVERFLOW tube. replacing the gas will not fix this (although should be done) so unfortunately you will have to pull the barb and check it. i had floats with the mold seem had plastic sticking off from it (was not properly cleaned up during manufacture) and was once in a while hanging on the side of the bowl. a little knife work fixed me up but you may have a needle valve problem. also adjust your valves
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Post by dyoung1167 on Mar 6, 2016 11:54:47 GMT -5
you mentioned the ducting from your air filter to the carb frayed. if you mean it's letting in air then that could very well be your problem. the system is actually "tuned" so to speak. all the talk at times of opening up the intake to create power yada yada had me for the heck of it try without the filter cover on (it's only got a little hole for the intake air). any real throttle it was crap, such as you describe. i also know of many that try the little cone filters right on the carb only to throw them away and keep it stock for this exact reason. a little leak may not cause much of a problem but if torn yes.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Mar 6, 2016 11:23:02 GMT -5
as tvnacman said, check your variator. keep in mind that the variator face should be off and the clutch pulley open (it's tough but squeeze it with your hands and get the belt in as far as you can) when installing a belt. tighten the variator nut by hand and keep checking that the belt is not in the way to keep it from sitting flat. then tighten for real. i use a regular impact driver (not an impact wrench). it gets it plenty tight and never had a problem, except my first go when i did not keep the belt out of the way and it was crooked, not visibly so but it was actually only tight to the belt so it loosened as soon as i took off. ruined the variator in the process but i learned well from it.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Dec 8, 2015 22:38:16 GMT -5
fuel. it takes very little to get a motor going good with no load. ad load and if the carb cannot supply the fuel, it will die. clean well the carb.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Dec 6, 2015 10:08:21 GMT -5
i'm going with the carb also, as in the needle/cylinder/diaphram. i had the needle break (don't ask me how, i haven't a clue) at the e-clip, so even though the cylinder was going up with vacuum as needed. the needle of course did not. would idle great and even rev half way descent while on the center stand due to no actual load but lucky to get 1-2 mph before bogging down.
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