Sophomore Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 139
Likes: 20
Joined: Mar 2, 2013 6:30:15 GMT -5
|
Post by dyoung1167 on Sept 24, 2013 6:11:45 GMT -5
i have no probs with my craftsman impact driver, and fairly certain it has less umph than what you are looking at. sometimes the factory nuts are too tight for the little guys and too tight period. get it off first then put it back on with your new one. they do not need to be cranked the out of. meaning you don't keep impacting once it starts to impact, just a two-three short (second or so) pulls of the trigger and that's it. i have not had one single problem this way
|
|
Sophomore Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 139
Likes: 20
Joined: Mar 2, 2013 6:30:15 GMT -5
|
Post by dyoung1167 on May 28, 2013 11:11:55 GMT -5
yeah, your not getting air from the screw but the plastic housing. it don't hurt to replace the screw to keep dirt out but it aint hurtin ya leaving it as is either
|
|
Sophomore Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 139
Likes: 20
Joined: Mar 2, 2013 6:30:15 GMT -5
|
Post by dyoung1167 on May 19, 2013 12:38:46 GMT -5
if, as it sounds, you put the plug in after the mystery oil but before turning it over i think you may have blown out the head gasket or the rings. an engine cannot compress liquid.
|
|
Sophomore Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 139
Likes: 20
Joined: Mar 2, 2013 6:30:15 GMT -5
|
Post by dyoung1167 on Apr 21, 2013 13:04:01 GMT -5
yes, bad r/r can allow too high voltage on the headlight and taillight burning them out in short order.
|
|
Sophomore Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 139
Likes: 20
Joined: Mar 2, 2013 6:30:15 GMT -5
|
Post by dyoung1167 on Apr 21, 2013 13:02:04 GMT -5
look for loose connections on your coil dropping some spark as they vibrate.
|
|
Sophomore Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 139
Likes: 20
Joined: Mar 2, 2013 6:30:15 GMT -5
|
Post by dyoung1167 on Apr 20, 2013 16:02:08 GMT -5
Mr., Mrs., Jr. etc. haha. just messing, i have no clue sorry.
|
|
Sophomore Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 139
Likes: 20
Joined: Mar 2, 2013 6:30:15 GMT -5
|
pair system
by: dyoung1167 - Apr 17, 2013 17:43:11 GMT -5
Post by dyoung1167 on Apr 17, 2013 17:43:11 GMT -5
i intend to remove it completely but do to an accident my drill and such is at work but i will have it tomorrow. can i get through a day just plugging the port off the valve cover?
|
|
Sophomore Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 139
Likes: 20
Joined: Mar 2, 2013 6:30:15 GMT -5
|
pair system
by: dyoung1167 - Apr 17, 2013 16:34:25 GMT -5
Post by dyoung1167 on Apr 17, 2013 16:34:25 GMT -5
what is the easiest way to eliminate the pair system on the valve cover. can i just plug the port on the valve cover that i think is supposed to go to the exhaust or do i really need to put a plate over the lower left port on the head where the piping begins? putting a new engine set up with a pair head and valve cover in a scoot that never had pair to begin with.
|
|
Sophomore Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 139
Likes: 20
Joined: Mar 2, 2013 6:30:15 GMT -5
|
Post by dyoung1167 on Apr 17, 2013 16:24:59 GMT -5
the port frfom the center of the petcock is indeed for vacuum. many scoots come with the petcock mounted to the frame and have 3 hose ports. the center port is always for vacuum. yours is mounted to the tank so although the threaded one is still a port it eliminates some guess work. your pic shows your lines are connected correctly for your application.
|
|
Sophomore Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 139
Likes: 20
Joined: Mar 2, 2013 6:30:15 GMT -5
|
Won't start
by: dyoung1167 - Apr 1, 2013 13:56:21 GMT -5
Post by dyoung1167 on Apr 1, 2013 13:56:21 GMT -5
even if he did it's worth checking them. also, the air/fuel may simply be too rich. screw it all the way in then out just a little and see if it will start or keeps flooding. if it starts let it warm up then go through a proper mixture adjustment procedure when it is warmed up as my suggestion is simply to reduce the fuel and is in no way correct for riding.
|
|