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Post by dyoung1167 on Oct 26, 2015 12:59:26 GMT -5
mine is along them lines 05 - 07 or so, but this will help keep them new for many years. still haven't needed to replace mine.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Oct 26, 2015 12:55:19 GMT -5
and if it seems too hard at least put a washer on the outside, meaning on the bolt before installing and one before the nut like any nut, bolt, washer combo.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Oct 26, 2015 12:47:26 GMT -5
yes the bushings would do this, they are what keeps the rear tire/motor lined up with the frame and front tire. i helped my bushings to stiffen (slightly) and last much longer by drilling out 4 thin 1/4 x 1 1/2 washers to the size of the main pivot bolt (i'm referring to the one on the motor(10mm i think but may wrong, check it first)). when you get the new ones and all is ready for the motor to be lifted into place on the new cross member put a washer on each side of each bushing. it is a bit tedious but works well. oh, and also put some descent protective lube (some lubes deteriorate rubber) on the rubber of the bushings prior to installation. my bushings have been going strong for five years and were a bit deteriorated before i did this the first time but they have still held up after. i drilled out washers because the right size washers tend to be quite thick and not fit.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Sept 29, 2015 10:34:07 GMT -5
yes. from different types of carbs on different things if the screw is on the front(intake manifold) side of the carb it is fuel. if it is on the rear (from the airbox/filter) side it is air and on most of these (i really only know 150's) carbs the screw is in the front.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Sept 29, 2015 10:16:01 GMT -5
i saw stated that your cdi charging voltage (from the stator) should be 17.5vac? that is way too low and sounds more like the lighting voltage and may have been a mistype. this should be much closer to 80 - 100 vac and even as high as the 120's, although i seem to remember someone saying the lowest of around 50v would still allow a weak but workable spark. that said i don't know if these cdi's do any form of stepping up the voltage (i don't think so) but it should at least be the same only dc when the pulse from the cdi is sent to the coil where it is stepped up considerably (somewhere around 10,000vdc or higher and unfortunately i doubt there any regular meters that have a range high enough to test this) in order for it to "jump" the gap in the plug.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Sept 22, 2015 20:09:35 GMT -5
i'm not going back to quote some of the numbers you say you set them at as many before me stated were way too big, but if your valves were set at them then the piston got way far into the combustion process and then nearly zero in the exhaust process. look it up (4 cycle animation) and i think you will see what i am referring to.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Sept 22, 2015 8:00:52 GMT -5
pull your plug and turn the engine by hand a few times and watch the valves to see that they are moving properly. if they seem to be, you may have to pull the head and check inside. those big clearances cause a lot of pressure, flow, and no flow at the wrong times. you may have bad valve seats, burnt piston, or what not currently giving you a not so healthy combustion chamber.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Sept 22, 2015 7:49:25 GMT -5
835-20-30 are considered directly interchangeable with the 842's but i would think an 821 is a touch too small. damn near an inch smaller versus less than half an inch. it is amazing how much pressure is put on those belts and if they actually bottom out before reaching the variator limit they just will not hold up.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Jan 30, 2015 14:19:50 GMT -5
dyoung1167I agree that using the alignment holes on the cam is the primary method to obtaining TDC. I forgot to add that into the post. As far as moving counter-clockwise I strongly disagree with you. Maybe you don't have a cam stopper on your engine, but OP may. It is just a very good practice. This is a cam stopper.  And it's affects have been throughly discussed. scootdawg.proboards.com/thread/8313?page=1 exactly what i have and will show tonight it's absolutely zero affect. i understand what is thought and for good reason because it LOOKS like it does something, but in the end it simply does nothing. the cam is fully able to spin quite freely in both directions and there is no linkage the affects the rocker arms either. i need to get a couple zip ties to keep it in place for a vid, as holding it by hand and rotating is a pain. |
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Post by dyoung1167 on Jan 29, 2015 16:09:49 GMT -5
i see this "T-mark" stuff all the time. the t-mark is "timing" as in spark, meant to be used with a timing light just like a car (although not adjustable without some mods so mostly useless) while close it does not indicate "TDC" like sooo many perceive it to be. even without mods the spark fires prior to tdc even though only a couple degrees.
that said you should always go by the holes in the cam sprocket (aligning the two small holes with the edge of the head and being able to see a larger hole top center) for tdc when adjusting your valves.
also, this anti reverse thing does nothing, and i mean nothing. never once has rotating my engine backwards affected anything ever and i have much experience in this (being scared from reading about said in the beginning, only to find......nada). i haven't edited my vid yet but will try tonight, but it clearly shows me spinning the cams forward and backward without a single glitch.
make sure you are at TDC with something along the lines of a chopstick. take your plug out, and while applying pressure to your piston using the plug hole as a fulcrum. slowly turn the engine forward and backward. you will feel the direction change just before and after TDC. do it until you are sure it is actually TDC, then check to insure your sprocket is aligned properly with the edge of the head. if not you will have fix this, and vids or with our help you can correct it, but going to assume for now it is correct, and your problem lies with using the "T-mark" instead of the sprocket holes.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Jan 29, 2015 14:20:24 GMT -5
as for the difference between ac and dc stators, they are actually referring to the set up of the scooter. if your scooter has a "DC" system (cdi, lights etc. ALL run on dc) then it would use a dc stator, which is a misnomer because it is still producing AC, it just doesn't have the dedicated coil for charging the cdi that AC cdi's need.
and it does sound as though you need a new r/r. they aren't perfect but should be giving a much steadier output.
i just replaced my r/r with a 5 wire set up that is doing an awesome job. new 11 pole stator and one 20w led headlight. after a 20 mile ride the r/r feels very cool to the touch where as the old 8 pole 4wire r/r set up the r/r pretty much stayed too hot to touch confortably, and that was with both stock 35w incandescent bulbs running, meaning they used most of the stators output so the r/r wouldn't need to shunt much unused output.
to clear up my last, the new 11 pole produces a lot more output than the old, i'm using less and the r/r is just yawning with boredom.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Jan 17, 2015 12:46:37 GMT -5
why doesn't "edit" give me the option to delete a post?
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Post by dyoung1167 on Jan 17, 2015 12:42:37 GMT -5
from what i understand it is the r/r that takes care of extra power. the stator only produces it and has no regulatory capability.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Jan 12, 2015 23:12:38 GMT -5
JR, alleyoop, Doug, JerryScript, skuttadawg, , before i went the lowes route i walked to a bicycle repair shop and tried the same thing but the cables were thin and the only "cable" he had was stainless (which i thought at the time to be a good thing). but even though thin it was too stiff and wouldn't allow the carb spring to do it's job and bring it back to idle.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Jan 12, 2015 19:47:03 GMT -5
my first scooter blasted belts. literally shredded, about every 1-3 months. i was putting roughly 80 miles a day during the week then whatever on the weekends but it still drove me nuts and blamed it on the belts sucking even though they were bando. it was after a new scoot a year later i realized the variator was just a touch out of square with the clutch pulley causing excessive wear.
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