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Post by dyoung1167 on Jan 3, 2015 10:58:16 GMT -5
mentioned earlier was the HZ. i think dmartin95 was curious. as they sit hz is going to very with the rpm. one full rev of the engine is also one full cycle of the wave form. even on the three phase each leg will only get one cycle. that said, unless these regulators have some way of controlling them the Hz on these should match the rpm of the engine, and now i have to wonder about portable gens because any loads makes them go full throttle (mostly for current i know) but are they 60Hz or are they higher? i know 60 is the household norm but maybe as long as it's at least 60 most things don't much care Damn it man this just keeps getting deeper LOL. |
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Post by dyoung1167 on Jan 3, 2015 10:36:19 GMT -5
tvnacman , i haven't seen them listed as such, but looking the color coding was my reference. two wires of a diff. color is single phase, 3 of the same color (because they all do exactly the same) are three phase. that is also why i went with the cheaper 5 wire (three yellow feeding, green and red out) But i would like to understand why they are called "11 pole" as your pic showing the windings, there is only 9 (for normal power) and then the tenth for cdi charging, but there are not 11. A good while back i even saw what was labeled as a "12 pole" scooter upgrade. the 6 and 8 versions actually have that many if you count in the cdi coil.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Jan 3, 2015 9:27:26 GMT -5
dmartin95, all is good my man, and that also goes for tvnacman and all on here. the new year hasn't done much but help me into an illish mood and i didn't respond in the best of manors. sorry to you all about that.
on a good note, still learning and that is the point of these things.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Jan 2, 2015 0:24:20 GMT -5
I still don't know what a triple phase is nor have you shown me . Did I miss something ? I know what I know , I know what I don't know when facing a problem or failure . I apply what I do know and search for answers to what I don't . The wave forms in the pictures on the graph is very pretty , was that to explain triple phase . www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/12563152 (result of google search) Yep, I'd say you're missing something alright...... And I don't mean that sarcastically... Do you understand the difference AC 120/240/480 volts? If you have a device that operates at 10 amps, at 120 volts AC, it will only require 5 Amps at 240... It's under this principle a full wave R/R will allow you to double your current in most circumstances. Now, picture this, a 120 volt line only needs three lines; ground/earth, hot and nuetral (think of this as single phase alternator with only two output wire (green, yellow and white))....AC 120 eqv would be Black, White and bare.... Now, 240 Volt AC has 4 wires; ground/earth-bare, hot-black, live-red and neutral-white. Think of this as the 3 phase stator. It has 4 wires, 3 AC, Hot, LIVE and Neutral and of course your ground. This is the same principal with these stators. The point of the pics was to illustrate how tapping the coil windings differently you can either have a single or 3 phase stator.... I don't understand how much simpler I could explain it... sorry but you are wrong. the neutral you speak of is only for a 120v circuit of the 240v service. i think you are refering to a newer stove with a clock and timer. a simple 240v stove (dryer even) need only two phases (each at 120v) out of phase with eachother and nothing else to work. the neutral is only there for a 120v single phase circuit(clock), and the ground is only for safety purposes. |
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Post by dyoung1167 on Jan 2, 2015 0:10:42 GMT -5
this is getting out of hand. here is the deal. there is no such thing as 2 phase (not in power generation). a two wire stator makes a FULL wave ac circuit but it cannot make 2 full waves 180 degrees out of sinc with each other. a rectifier can only use the positive "half" to make dc. whence its called a half wave rectifier or pulsing dc. but that still takes two wires. three wires allow for the "WAVES" to be out of sinc with each other so that as one is in the negative (not going through the diode) another is in the positive cycle and going through the diode making it a constant dc.
for the record i just wanted to know about the wiring of the r/r's. i only want to know what each wire does because diagrams are a dime a dozen and no 2 alike. if i had a good diagram i would not be asking, so stop bickering
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Post by dyoung1167 on Jan 1, 2015 11:48:42 GMT -5
i haven't gotten into the lights and enricher in a while but i'm pretty sure the white from the stator is a direct to the r/r while the yellow powered the running light, headlight, enricher, then into the r/r .
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Post by dyoung1167 on Jan 1, 2015 11:31:19 GMT -5
And i'm sorry for the dual posts, as i am conversing with dmartin95 on his post for this on the other board.
i was in a hurry to order a regulator yesterday, and due to that and lack of forsight to ask here sooner made a couple posts. i didn't get responces as soon as i needed (nobodies fault but mine) i have went ahead and ordered the 5 wire (it was only 15 bucks). i will put my meter to it when it arrives, though i'm sure it's pretty straight up charging and go from there, whether it will overcharge i'm not sure but i'm sure it will work for the short term at least. i may end up having to go with 6 or 7 but at least then i will know, and hopoefully why.
thanks for y'alls help and any further enlightenment you guys can toss me about my questions will be greatly appreciated
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Post by dyoung1167 on Jan 1, 2015 11:19:30 GMT -5
it's ac fired, didn't ask since i know. i will essentially be rerbuilding the harness and do not really expect to use either of the existing white/yellow in it for the old stator/rr. due to r/r probs in the past i have already gone dc for my lights. i have the 11 pole for ac ignition but i don't have either r/r yet. if i had the 7 i would simply follow other upgrade posts.
now i have also found a 5 wire r/r (3 yellow, 1 red, 1 green) fairly simple to figure out "i think". the yellows are a givin, the red charge and the green ground. but how does this work compared to the other 2 do the the fact it doesn't have the Acc wire for monitoring voltage? and how does that work anyway concidering if it's charging, then it will read the charging voltage not the actual batt. voltage unless it periodically stops charging to check?
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Post by dyoung1167 on Dec 31, 2014 14:20:32 GMT -5
If you find it's not your valves, older aluminum rims can get pitted. especially if fix-a-flat or even the green goop they now sell that is "non-corrosive" has ever been used. personal experience talking, so a good fix for this is bead sealer. if your friendly mechanic who may let you use the air just to seal the bead won't come off 3 cents worth of theirs it's only $11 for a quart of the stuff (last you years) at your local auto parts place. mine drove me batty both front and back slow leaks for months due the pitting. one quick swipe with that it and haven't added air one time since.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Dec 31, 2014 13:43:49 GMT -5
sounds counter intuitive but i'm pretty sure the dc cdi's ARE much larger than the ac counter parts, because they have to first invert the dc to ac then back again for spark, ac get to skip that step and are smaller.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Dec 31, 2014 13:39:50 GMT -5
upgrading to an 11 pole stator and i find many "6 pin regulator for 11 pole upgrades" but can only find references to 7 pin regulators. the only thing i can find is that one wire is simply for the choke (on the 7 pin r/r's). my question is, if i run my choke on dc (via my key switched power) instead of the original ac side of the harness can i use the 6 pin r/r? it is a bit cheaper and the only one i can find on amazon and i'm trying to place a single order instead of multiple which adds shipping costs too.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Dec 29, 2013 10:33:06 GMT -5
pic please, two screws aren't usually up/down. more like front/back and under the bowl would more likely be a fuel dump to empty the bowl.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Oct 20, 2013 12:48:09 GMT -5
check to see if you have a grounded or ungrounded stator, they require different r/r's. unplug your new one and read resistance to ground through the white and yellow wire. a couple ohms is grounded, no reading/OL is ungrounded, then test the original and see if they are the same.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Sept 24, 2013 7:06:59 GMT -5
if it was knocking even with the original i would say you have some sort of valve timing issue. maybe the timing chain is back/forward a tooth. make sure you are at tdc and the sprocket is properly centered with the two small holes aligned with the head and the larger hole centered at the top. may as well check and adjust the valves while you're at it, cause it never hurts
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Post by dyoung1167 on Sept 24, 2013 6:43:13 GMT -5
dude, the stator DOES NOT put out dc. very simple-IT DOES NOT PUT OUT DC! regardless of what you think your meter says, as you said, you did not even attempt to read ac voltage. do your self a favor, quite asking here and then completely ignoring good sound KNOWLEDGE. google how motorcycle/scooter stators work. when the answers you find correlate exactly with how you have been told here, come back and say thank you
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