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Post by dyoung1167 on Dec 2, 2015 22:41:25 GMT -5
it is the sellers who claim to not intermingle. good parts work well together and very few know who their father is. may the force be with you chinese scooter son.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Dec 1, 2015 15:03:07 GMT -5
i haven't taken the time to read all the posts, but as far as how long to leave the slim in before it ruins the rim, i can say it was in my tire for the life of the tire, several months (maybe 5-6). that said, i don't actually know how long it took to get noticeable and worrisome pitting and it is an aluminum rim. if yours is steel you may have nothing to worry about. the pitting was a pain in the as i couldn't get the next 2 tires to seal properly at the bead and had to add air every couple days. didn't have the money for a rim. but that is where bead sealer, about $10 i think at advanced auto did the trick very well and you get enough to last forever. i have not put one psi of extra air in the latest tire in 2 1/2 months. it's small pitting and does not make the rim dangerous or close to breaking or anything like that so it isn't "ruined" per say. i have no current plans to replace it (thanks to bead sealer) until i just have some extra funds and feel like a shiny new one.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Nov 27, 2015 0:26:45 GMT -5
what?
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Post by dyoung1167 on Nov 26, 2015 9:26:38 GMT -5
my first scooter would blow a belt about every month-month and a half or so. very damn annoying. when i got my new scooter they were side by side with the belt covers off and i just happened to look from one to the other (i wasn't trying to figure it out) and i saw that the pulleys on the old scooter were out of whack, meaning not in line, so it was always running a bit warped causing much more friction and tearing up the belts prematurely.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Nov 26, 2015 8:57:49 GMT -5
i'm not so sure about "any mechanic" thing. i went to motorcycle shop once and he said quite specifically that although he could get me a tire, he could not change it. their devices are not set up for such a small hole in the rim, and a car mechanics is completely different. he would just have to resort to exactly what we do at home.
the first time is hard, but as with most things it gets easier with practice. don't sell yourself short, you can do it.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Nov 25, 2015 8:31:44 GMT -5
no one near me can do a scooter tire, but have always done it myself anyway. they are not "real" hard to change. i'm sure there is a vid or 3 to help ya. but a quick help with breaking the bead. get a 2x4 about 6-8ft long or so. best with a friend so one can hold the wheel steady and the other can stand, bounce, or jump on the board. worse case, such as after i had lubed an older change with straight dawn, the bead was damn near welded to the rim so i walked a car up the board and easy as pie.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Nov 24, 2015 22:06:50 GMT -5
starting too slow on a regular basis, or having too high of an idle (tire turns if on center stand but not when on the side stand, meaning constant contact while you aren't moving) will glaze the clutch pads and they do not grip well until under a descent load. A light sanding on all three pads (from shiny dark chocolate to dull light), should fix this.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Nov 22, 2015 23:09:46 GMT -5
and this thread proves it.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Nov 22, 2015 23:01:28 GMT -5
slim is SLIMY, if it is coating the hole the plug will not stick. been there, done that. claim what you want but experience proves it is simply so.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Nov 22, 2015 19:02:23 GMT -5
the slime is the problem, also it WILL corrode the wheel. even the so-called non-corrosive style green slime they claim is safe on aluminum (it's not). been there and done that, along with half an hour with a wire brush on my drill to get all the crap off, including all the white corrosion. the wire brush didn't help the pits in the rim but bead sealer fixed that. I had put it in as a cautionary tactic and learned to just leave that crap on the shelf and my money in my pocket.
that said, i can't think of anything for you to do but take the tire off the rim, clean it and the rim well, then plug it.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Nov 22, 2015 16:09:27 GMT -5
50 volts is the lower limit of a workable voltage but it should allow a touch of spark, just not a good one. the pickups are very hard to get a real measurement on. but my meter is digital and i have heard an analog works much better for this. as you have tried the cdi an another scoot, do the same with your coil and plug wire. also, check the ignition kill wire to the cdi, if it is grounded,which will not allow spark. a bad contact in either the handle bar switch or key switch or even a chafe/pinch in the wiring harness could cause this.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Nov 22, 2015 15:57:52 GMT -5
while I can't simply refute it as i have had only the one experience with the orange cdi, that experience has lasted for going on 2 years. maybe i just got lucky.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Nov 22, 2015 15:53:27 GMT -5
but free is still cheaper
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Post by dyoung1167 on Nov 21, 2015 13:19:32 GMT -5
has anyone attempted to replace the plug wire/boot with a regular car style one? these damn things for the scooters with the cheesy spring wire style holder that just grips the threads of the plug suck. i was think of finding an old but workable plug wire and putting on the little threaded adapter most of these plugs come with specifically for that style of boot. i was wondering if there is any type of impedance issues with the wires themselves that may lead other unwanted issues such as burning up the coil or some such thing, as the conductive material is probably different. ours are pretty much just wire (i think) but many vehicle plug wires are more of a carbon based conductor (again, i think). any insight would be appreciated, thanks.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Nov 8, 2015 12:47:57 GMT -5
not sure why the cylinder has to be removed, i haven't needed to do the top chain guide but just removing the head gives plenty of room to work with and no need to mess with the piston, rings, or cylinder. granted you would have even more room but is there something other than the pivot bolt behind the variator that would actually necessitate this?
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