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Post by dyoung1167 on Dec 9, 2017 19:15:23 GMT -5
has anyone ever encountered first hand a starter clutch NOT disengage after the engine was running and keep spinning the starter without the solenoid being the culprit, meaning solenoid definitely NOT sending juice to the starter?
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Post by dyoung1167 on Dec 9, 2017 19:10:37 GMT -5
I guess I will set up a switch directly inline with the solenoid to see if my thought on the wiring (vs taking all kinds of crap apart to visually see a wiring error) and just shut it off as soon as it starts. It will all come off eventually for painting but right now good running order comes first.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Dec 9, 2017 15:03:31 GMT -5
is it possible some idiot before i got the scooter messed with wiring that could maybe keep the starter engaged if the engine is running? maybe crosswiring with the charging side of the r/r? meaning for me that as soon as the engine runs it keeps the solenoid engaged even though i have let off the button?
I guess I know the answer is sure it could be but....
because my own answer to anothers post for me was about gunk keeping the starter clutch engaged got me to thinking it would have to be some serious gunk to overcome the gearing and all involved with said clutch while the roller pins would only need to move a tiny bit to disengage.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Dec 9, 2017 14:49:16 GMT -5
yeah, not the solenoid. before installing the new starter (and after actually) many attempts were made to start it but I know not to crank long and wait between tries to keep it cool and not once did it stick or try to run on when I let go of the start button.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Dec 9, 2017 14:44:23 GMT -5
at the moment it will not go above idle and the exhaust isn't installed as I wasn't looking to run long, just wanting to see if it would run at all. while it did it also would die immediately upon any throttle advance so idle was it. that said it was obviously loud as especially being in a small storage shed.
I asked about the flush because i had a gy6 that the roller pins and springs were gummed up and not releasing the starter. It was of course a ton easier to get to and deal with directly. I take that back, sort of. it wasn't stuck engaged, the pins were stuck back, NOT engaging. gunk was not allowing the springs to do their job of keeping pressure on the pins, so they would not engage properly.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Dec 9, 2017 14:34:02 GMT -5
the engine did not run long enough for even it to get as warm as the starter got, and again, i did not over crank with it. and it's new
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Post by dyoung1167 on Dec 5, 2017 20:37:06 GMT -5
well , a lot of good this site is.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Dec 4, 2017 16:05:20 GMT -5
cfmoto liquid cooled 150. got it to start yesterday after replacing the starter as the old one was burnt up. wouldn't run long and any throttle killed it. after running I noticed how hot the starter was even though I specifically did not over crank it, waiting between starts to try and keep from that exact thing. the guy I bought it from (who of course didn't say squat about it then) said he thought starter clutch wasn't disengaging but if the plug is out and I turn the motor by hand I really didn't think so. that was prior to getting it started. now i'm not so sure. would the starter still get hot without juice running through it, as in just getting turned by the motor? this is way different from a gy6 and not real enthused about trying to get to that thing, a damn load of varying screws and parts need to be taken out/off to do it. how bad would it be on the engine to try gumout engine flush (which I think is really just kerosene) and hope it dislodges the little roller pins and springs in the starter clutch? worth a shot or too damaging and should just bite the bullet and take it apart?
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Post by dyoung1167 on Nov 23, 2017 10:55:02 GMT -5
as stated this could be from slow take offs but it can also be from too high an idle rpm. with the scoot on the center stand if the wheel turns even the slightest at idle it is too high and will continue to glaze the the pads at all stand still moments.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Nov 12, 2017 22:51:57 GMT -5
My first scooter went through some belts. Not as fast as yours but found after buying another and the 2 parked side by side i noticed the one using belts wasn't actually in line front to back causing my belt to have to ride side ways and beat the out of it. whence quick fail.
that said, I think you are using too small of a belt. the very one time mine only lasted that short was when I used a friends smaller belt hoping to get home even slowly. nope. half mile, chunks of belt and string all tangled to .
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Post by dyoung1167 on May 18, 2017 21:26:38 GMT -5
you either have gas or not. the vacuum crap is just that, crap. having a manual shut-off is plenty, if no shut-off, ok too. the idea is that if the float does not do its job and stop the incoming fuel from continuing to flow (flooding it and even just running over) when the float bowl is full one of the 2 will stop it, vacuum = automatically if not running, manual = when you shut it off. if the float needle is doing its job neither (just leave the manual in the on .) is needed day to day.
i guess i seem to be rambling, but these are not your problem.
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cam timing?
by: dyoung1167 - Apr 26, 2017 10:10:41 GMT -5
Post by dyoung1167 on Apr 26, 2017 10:10:41 GMT -5
and when i say visually i mean just that, i can see directly into the spark plug hole and watch the piston move.
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cam timing?
by: dyoung1167 - Apr 26, 2017 9:57:13 GMT -5
Post by dyoung1167 on Apr 26, 2017 9:57:13 GMT -5
my lazy butt drove my scooter 150cc qmj for a good while with the lack of the lower cam tension/guide. it actually ran fairly well with the exception of it reverse firing 1,2 maybe 3 times before running. by that i mean it would try to send the piston backwards and stop rotation dead in its tracks. i figured this was due to a slack cam chain.
Anyway, i finally replaced said guide and now have proper tension and i am able to visually see that the piston is reaching exactly TDC as the whole in the cam sprocket gets to center. that said there is of course about a tooth or half a tooth or so play just after this meaning it is still tdc but the alignment whole would be slightly forward of center.
what i'm getting at is the scooter is still giving me these firing in reverse moments before it finally runs. should i try putting it one tooth back? or would it not help? nothing about the spark or spark timing has changed although i'm under the impression that i could ever so slightly retard the timing at the pickup without any true mods and not sure what little i could get would matter anyway.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Apr 2, 2017 22:40:49 GMT -5
the cdi is very specific, a black (mostly) rectangular box usually mounted with a rubber holder somewhere on the frame under (around) the seat bucket. it will have two plugs in it.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Mar 31, 2017 8:56:26 GMT -5
while i don't know how the water got in there, did you ride through any hard rain lately? you say it's always covered but one noticeable thing for me is the open breather hole. all mine have a rubber tube from there and stuck into the open (mount style) hole near the shock to keep said water from having a direct downward path into the gear case.
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