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Post by newbscootdude on Aug 16, 2013 17:11:00 GMT -5
a always running good scooter starting to slow and a lose of power is what ive always heard when everything else is just fine. the good thing about valve adjustments is its super easy to check all u need is a set of feeler gauges, a wrench and some pliers (alligator clamps work great for this).
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timing issue
by: newbscootdude - Aug 16, 2013 13:55:30 GMT -5
Post by newbscootdude on Aug 16, 2013 13:55:30 GMT -5
i havent messed around with that area i just take the bolt off the flywheel then what? would be anything extremely important not to do if i did that? i think it would be easier if i just try the compinsate thing. but i would be willing to try it ill look up some videos about how to take that area apart.
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timing issue
by: newbscootdude - Aug 16, 2013 12:48:13 GMT -5
Post by newbscootdude on Aug 16, 2013 12:48:13 GMT -5
 and you are correct about that. i think y im so confused and i just remembered i had a friend help me to hold it in place while i did the install last time lol.
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timing issue
by: newbscootdude - Aug 16, 2013 12:29:43 GMT -5
Post by newbscootdude on Aug 16, 2013 12:29:43 GMT -5
i dont know what you mean by "adjust for the difference". so basically the cam chain will hold it in place? or are you saying that i should turn the cam timing a little clockwise to compinsate for the difference on the flywheel?
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timing issue
by: newbscootdude - Aug 16, 2013 11:03:44 GMT -5
Post by newbscootdude on Aug 16, 2013 11:03:44 GMT -5
so i finally got my jets, tuning weights, starter, starter bendix, and my gaskets! now im putting her back together and right off the bat this is happening and it did not do this last time so im kind of worried.
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Post by newbscootdude on Aug 11, 2013 14:02:32 GMT -5
so ive been doing some reading on cluctch springs and i currently have the 1k springs. ive been thinking wouldn't the higher rated springs be better?
my thought process behind this is if the clutch isnt kicking in until 2.5k or 3k rpms (which ever the highest rated springs are) you would be closer to your power band and the engine would putting out more power than starting out at 1k thus giving better acceleration.
how ever i have read a lot and i have seen a lot people say the exact opposite which to me makes no sense. why would you want the engine to start moving you at a lower rmp making it take longer to reach the higher rpms for your powerband?
now i know the variator weights come into play here but if possible try to think about what im saying without having the variator weights come into play.
for instance i know if you have lighter weights and the light springs like i do the acceleration is pretty fast but i feel like if the engine would kick in at higher rpms the acceleration would be faster.
im kinda just using a little common sense here but i could be wrong and i would love for someone to tell me why it is that i have read a lot of people saying to go with the lighter weights and springs rather than going with lighter weights and heavier springs?
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Post by newbscootdude on Aug 11, 2013 11:30:12 GMT -5
if you have a heat gun you could try heating it up and bending it back into place and leave some kind of a weight on it so it wont spring back while cooling. or a clamp would be best
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Post by newbscootdude on Aug 11, 2013 10:58:45 GMT -5
what size carb are you using? it really helps when you list your setup in your signature, helps us to better help you. what are your valves adjusted to?
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Post by newbscootdude on Aug 10, 2013 18:41:04 GMT -5
showing the damage done to my starter bendix from the same issue.
this is probs what is happening to yours.
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Post by newbscootdude on Aug 10, 2013 18:38:43 GMT -5
gingel
the link to the other board for the oil was a very interesting read and i feel like i learned something about oil today lol. So this brings up the question what is the best oil to use in a 4 stroke gy6 eninge?
im currently using mobile 1 15w40 for my break in and im planning on swapping to 5w30 racing full syn once my break in is done.
anyone got some suggestions on better oil to use? if you read the post he put up does anyone agree with using the 0w20 for all the benefits that was said?
me knowing nothing about oil would question that oil being to thin, but then again i know nothing about oil other than its used to lube up the engine lol
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Post by newbscootdude on Aug 10, 2013 16:03:17 GMT -5
;o
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Post by newbscootdude on Aug 10, 2013 1:57:41 GMT -5
can you give me an explination as to why possibly?
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Post by newbscootdude on Aug 10, 2013 1:52:39 GMT -5
So i have seen a couple of different timing methods to make sure everything is in timing. 1) line the T mark on the brass looking thing with cooling fan on it up with the notch in the engine casing. i905.photobucket.com/albums/ac258/bashan_2010/GY6%20Project/DSCN3500640x480.jpg2)or lust put the piston at top dead center of the cylinder before putting everything else back on. I just want to know which method is best? or if it honestly doesnt matter? |
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Post by newbscootdude on Aug 7, 2013 17:32:24 GMT -5
i cant confirm your story but what i do is if the line of the trip are visible i stop the scooter directly over the trip wire.
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Post by newbscootdude on Aug 7, 2013 13:53:15 GMT -5
From what I can see, Everything looks a-ok. and you are right about the gaskets, you can use rtv silicone on the valve cover if you wish. I cant see any reason why you got oil in the cylinder. Did you have the bike on it's side, or tip it in an abnormal direction? I would just assemble it again, and turn it by hand several times with the plug out to see if it binds. If not, run it. no the bike didnt tip i always keep it on the center stand, did you see the i wrote that my base gasket is ripped? its not bad just a little piece out of the corner on the upper left hand side that stayed on the engine case. would it be unwise to reassemble it with that rip in the base gasket? |
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(need 112)