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Post by jerseyboy on Apr 24, 2015 20:17:08 GMT -5
Man dewd you are into the scooter thing for sure..is it your only hobby?
You got thousands of $$ worth of scooter stuff in there,,thats awesome!!
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Post by jerseyboy on Apr 24, 2015 19:50:48 GMT -5
So, I talked with the seller today. This is what he told me: the top end is new. the carburetor is new. He said that it runs, but it blows smoke out of the tail pipe. I have not witnessed this at idle. He believes that the rings did not seat, and that I just need a new set of rings. I'm listening to all advice on this. What do you think? If it is rings, do I still need to hone the cylinder or get a new one? what else might cause it to smoke after a rebuild? Well rings not being properly clocked and or faulty valve guide seals could cause smoke after a rebuild...I would check ring end gap also,,for a 150 it should be in the neighborhood of .010 on the top two compression rings.I got a pretty good video on my youtube channel for clocking GY6 rings. |
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Post by jerseyboy on Apr 24, 2015 19:44:37 GMT -5
I figured dmartin would chime in and be the guy for this,,he is a pro on RR and stators,,I just checked my service manual and all I found was a 4 pin pinnout.
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Post by jerseyboy on Apr 24, 2015 19:10:39 GMT -5
Ok,,I edited my post because I realize the wire must come from the new RR and your old harness or plug only has a 4 pin,,so yes just try it and see if it fires,,keep us posted,,i think its just for alarm or other accessory.
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Post by jerseyboy on Apr 24, 2015 19:04:51 GMT -5
I would try it without the pink wire and see if it runs and all lights work,,I dont think you will need that wire..
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Post by jerseyboy on Apr 23, 2015 7:03:36 GMT -5
Hi George - I just now pulled up your post ad I know what you are going through . I have been suffering from diviticulitus for the last 15 months and I have great sympathy for your Dad . I am 87 and was told I am too old for surgery so I took matters into my own hands and started self help I started taking lots of fibre and vegs and have been able to get the problem under control. I know it is too late for your Dad ,but keep on praying and he still can pull through this. If he can pull through there is a very good chance he will be able to live a normal life.. Keep thinking positive thoughts and don't lose HOPE . All the best to you and your DAD. Crawdad 27 Thanks a lot , he has been home for a little while now and is doing pretty good. He is regaining his strength , he doesn't remember all that much but is happy to still be here. Thanks to everyone for their thoughts and prayers. Our God is an Awesome God! |
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Post by jerseyboy on Apr 22, 2015 20:29:14 GMT -5
Purchased an old dead scooter. Started diagnosing the problems with this thing. Today, I am going to re-fuse (with a blade fuse holder) the ignition wire, re-plumb with quality vacuum and fuel line tubing, change out spark plug (@7k miles it still had the original plug and tubing). maybe give it a cup of gas and see if it will start. Haven't been able to ride my everyday scoot for a week... its been raining. Had to mow the lawn instead of ride last night after work. Hey rdhood,,keep us posted on the scooter repair,,Im going to buy a few used 150s this summer and repair them for resale,,see them on CL all the time for $200-$400 and most only need a fuel line,carb clean,and battery  Hope it runs like a banshee for ya!! |
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Post by jerseyboy on Apr 21, 2015 18:59:59 GMT -5
High temp silicon valve cover seal for car engines should work, the red one. Yup,,that or the black one,,put a nice small bead on then let it tack up for a few minutes,,then put it on the motor and just hand tighten the bolts,,let it sit for an hour then snug it down. Dont know why that double posted??? |
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Post by jerseyboy on Apr 21, 2015 18:59:39 GMT -5
High temp silicon valve cover seal for car engines should work, the red one. Yup,,that or the black one,,put a nice small bead on then let it tack up for a few minutes,,then put it on the motor and just hand tighten the bolts,,let it sit for an hour then snug it down. |
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Post by jerseyboy on Apr 21, 2015 7:22:17 GMT -5
Yup,,dad and I figured if the motor is wasted then he will have a great scoot for around $450,,the body and frame are in great shape!
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Post by jerseyboy on Apr 20, 2015 13:33:25 GMT -5
I would look a little harder ,,my dad and I just picked up a 150 with 588 miles from CL for $250 all it needed was a fuel line,,great shape,,you can find them cheaper bro...just saying.
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Post by jerseyboy on Apr 20, 2015 13:31:18 GMT -5
Yup the coil will get high resistance when its hot or warm and will quit sparking until it cools down seen that alot in my life on small motors.If i had it here I would put the leak down tester on it,,rule some more things out...
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Post by jerseyboy on Apr 20, 2015 7:00:28 GMT -5
I did a bunch of odds and ends. I changed the oil. I changed the gear oil because the manual said to use a thinner oil than what I put in it last time. They recommend 10W-30 and I had used 80W90. It IS okay to use MOTOR oil instead of GEAR oil, right? I sure hope so because I didn't see any 10W-30 gear oil at the store. I changed the variator because the one I got from scrapdawg was lame and I hope this one is better. The belt is going to be about 2mm higher on the pulley, per side, so I might be a little over geared. I'll find out tomorrow. Also took measurements of belt ride for my records and spreadsheets. What's interesting is that this variator came with grease on the weights, so now that stupid cover on the back of the 250 sized variator finally makes sense. Looking forward to seeing how that affects variator movement. Also weighed the weights and distributed them by weight around the variator for a hopefully smooth ride. I deglazed the clutch pads. I put the original carb back in, dropped the needle back down and dropped the jet size by 010. I had recently tried to richen the mixture to solve my hot exhaust pipe issue and it didn't work. Not only that, but it dropped my gas mileage by 20mpg, so I put it all back the way I started but with a slightly richer jet than original just to be safe. What's amazing is that the thing seems to run about as well with a 105 jet as it does with a 125 jet and a raised needle. The one odd thing to me is that the spring for the needle diaphragm seems much softer than most I've come across. Usually they pop the cover up pretty hard when I take the screws out, but this one just shoves it up a bit. Is that good? I don't know. Snugged up the exhaust pipe header bolts. Put it on the charger to make up for cranking it several times during testing. Feeling good about my scooter and looking forward to trying it out tomorrow to see the results.  Hey Scooter,You know me,,i dont always agree with the much..lol..especially manuals..if the gear box is anything like a GY6 box I would just run the lightest synthetic gear lube you can find,,motor oil may foam up and get alot of air bubbles,,the gear lube wont,,just my thought on it..I know the synthetic stuff is a bit thinner. |
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Post by jerseyboy on Apr 20, 2015 6:28:59 GMT -5
For the tank if its not too bad just remove the hose from the bottom and drain the fuel,,then look into there with a flash light,,if you see some dirt at the bottom just spray some brake cleaner in there and slosh it around so all the dirt comes out,,if its full of rust well thats another issue,,tank will have to be replaced or removed and filled with nuts and bolts or BB's then add some fuel plug the bottom outlet and shake it for a few minutes,rinse and repeat,,then a good tank liner is recommended.A new tank is usually no more than $60.
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Post by jerseyboy on Apr 19, 2015 21:33:21 GMT -5
I would do a total cleaning of the entire fuel system,,tank vent,tank to carb inlet first.
That way you have a clean foundation to start on from there just work your way down stream....from the jets and ports to the valves and so on...
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