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Post by jerseyboy on May 4, 2015 6:14:15 GMT -5
My daughter has a 5s smart phone I have a flip phone,,whats wrong with that picture...lol
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Post by jerseyboy on May 1, 2015 6:24:44 GMT -5
Just the way I like it Next I need something that tells me how fast I'm going haha Thats awesome! No more worries with those pesky plastics making noise,cracking,and falling off...lol...you can get a smart phone holder and use a GPS app for a speedo.
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Post by jerseyboy on May 1, 2015 6:22:26 GMT -5
I think your seat is in need of some new clothes. I re vinyled mine last year . I left the scoot uncovered inside when I was changing the starter clutch , and one of my cats scratched it up !!. It wasn't too bad but it sucks. I keep telling you guys a scooter never dies...lol
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Post by jerseyboy on Apr 30, 2015 17:51:31 GMT -5
Well I never made it to Delaware Water Gap weds,,but made it up to Mountain Lake for lunch on the picnic table then back home,,50 mile trek no problems at all,,the BBK is running better every day
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Post by jerseyboy on Apr 30, 2015 17:49:08 GMT -5
Its alive!!! Nice!!
That scooter is naked..lol..it almost looks like a bicycle.
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Post by jerseyboy on Apr 30, 2015 6:51:26 GMT -5
Yea I was wondering what it was too? It looks like one wire (second picture) but it's actually two wires (bottom left 1st picture) Well its a variable resistor to calibrate or tweak one of the functions,I bet its for tweaking the RPM.If you have a small engine shop near you with a good clip on gauge you could calibrate your new one to it is my guess.
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Post by jerseyboy on Apr 29, 2015 20:05:56 GMT -5
The red wire looks like it has a mini trimmer pot on it,,wonder what thats for?
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Post by jerseyboy on Apr 29, 2015 20:01:42 GMT -5
Just a mirror image....I noticed the exhaust right away before scrolling down.
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Post by jerseyboy on Apr 27, 2015 18:24:51 GMT -5
Awesome guys and gals!! I looked at mine today and imagined my 65 mile trek this weds up to the Delaware Water Gap and Appalachian Trail then back,,cant wait
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Post by jerseyboy on Apr 26, 2015 14:48:56 GMT -5
When it doesnt work try wiggling the switch,,could be a bad or dirty contact in the switch also,,check all your grounds.
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Post by jerseyboy on Apr 26, 2015 9:30:34 GMT -5
What gaskets will I need when I do this replancement? You are going to need a new valve cover gasket,head gasket,possibly exhaust and intake gasket(you can usually reuse these if careful), and base gasket at minimum,,i would just get the complete gasket kit for the motor,,they are only $10 or so on ebay,,then you will have all the gaskets for the entire motor in case you need any down the road. Oh and head nuts get torqued to 18ft LBS much more and the studs will start too twist
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Post by jerseyboy on Apr 26, 2015 9:26:54 GMT -5
I just used a very fine flat file that I bought at Lowes for $4,,it was designed to take rakers down on a chainsaw chain,,I made very light passes with it putting equal pressure on both ends and kept the file as level as possible,,I know they make ring filing tools but this worked good enough for me as a hobbyist. I got the info for the ring end gap off the Wisco site,,there is a simple math formula for this...let me see if I can find the chart again and i will post it for you...here is a pic of the chart,you may have to zoom in a little to read it. You're timing for posting all this is great.. I'm currently in the process of converting a 150cc engine from 2 valve to 4 valve and installing a BBK (58.5mm) to bring it up to a 155cc. So, I hope you'll be around tonight in case I need to pick your brain.... For example... The oil ring, or rather I should say the piece of "bologna", Mine seems like it's too big... It's over lapping and one end is trying to go over the other instead of lining up next to each other... In other words, the end are not mating up side by side, it extends and goes over the other one by about 2~3mm... Do I trim it? Cram it in there? I had problems with my oil ring separator too,,i had to monkey with it for a minute or two before it went in,,not sure if I should have trimmed it but it fit it perfect after some playing around,,if yours is so big that it seems like its going to wrinkle out and protrude I would take a few thousands off just so it sits nice and flush in the grove with both ends just touching.Its made like an accordion so if it gets real hot the ring will just squeeze together before it damages the walls IMO. As far as I know its just a separator/cushion/spacer type ring that has nothing to do with compression,,so if its a few thousands short it wont matter much. Ive seen alot of guys say that ring end gap is not that important on these GY6 motors,,I tend to disagree,,there is no difference when it comes to heat expansion on any combustion engine.There are also shops that have set the REG at .008 on both rings for a 150 and have no problems.Im real anal when it comes to building motors so I try to make everything perfect,,do it right the first time and you wont have to worry about it down the road.Might want to research a bit more about the separator being too big or give the manufacturer a buzz and tell him about your concern as well.
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Post by jerseyboy on Apr 25, 2015 19:44:04 GMT -5
Sure ,,here ya go,,the motor is running tip top,,got about 500 miles on it so far,,Im sure there are 100 other ways to do it,,but this way works for me Great Vid! How did you gap your rings? Did you use a file? Also, If ya don't mind sharing, where did you get the info for the ring gap size? I just used a very fine flat file that I bought at Lowes for $4,,it was designed to take rakers down on a chainsaw chain,,I made very light passes with it putting equal pressure on both ends and kept the file as level as possible,,I know they make ring filing tools but this worked good enough for me as a hobbyist. I got the info for the ring end gap off the Wisco site,,there is a simple math formula for this...let me see if I can find the chart again and i will post it for you...here is a pic of the chart,you may have to zoom in a little to read it.
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Post by jerseyboy on Apr 25, 2015 16:43:34 GMT -5
I got a pretty good video on my youtube channel for clocking GY6 rings. Got a link? Sure ,,here ya go,,the motor is running tip top,,got about 500 miles on it so far,,Im sure there are 100 other ways to do it,,but this way works for me
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Post by jerseyboy on Apr 25, 2015 8:11:36 GMT -5
Well rings not being properly clocked and or faulty valve guide seals could cause smoke after a rebuild...I would check ring end gap also,,for a 150 it should be in the neighborhood of .010 on the top two compression rings.I got a pretty good video on my youtube channel for clocking GY6 rings. I'll check the end gap and see what position the rings are in before I change anything. I almost hope to find something simple that's wrong! I'll also see what the cylinder wall looks like. I'll going to hone the cylinder and put on a new set of rings. Can I tell by inspection if I have a faulty valve guide seal? Today, I got the new ignition ($28 ebay) and two locks. Previously, I was missing the lock for the seat. The seller gave me an extra plastic shroud that holds the instrument panel and switches. The old one had a crack. So I assembled all of it. Re-lugged/soldered/taped both positive and negative cables on the battery as both were about half broken. If they are cracked or shifted out of position,,but other than that they are so cheap I would just replace them,,maybe you could squirt a little PB Blaster around them and see if they seep any,,not sure how that would work.I know you can test a combustion chamber that way from valve leakage,,just fill it up with PB Blaster and see if any leaks out.
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