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Post by jerseyboy on May 27, 2015 8:16:41 GMT -5
Repaired the headlight with a new one from autozone$11(stock one lasted 3 years),will wash and wax today,,then go for a 30 mile stretch  Glad to see my thread is still rockin and rollin!! I have not had much time to be online so ride safe and enjoy the scooters guys/gals Tommy from Jersey.... |
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Post by jerseyboy on May 18, 2015 20:38:10 GMT -5
I put $3 of super in it,checked the oil and ran it at 6K rpm,1/4 throttle,50+ MPH for one hour to moms and back..hehehehe.
Fuel gauge still said full when I got home...man I love this scooter...almost 1000 KM on the new BBK now and really rip roaring good!
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Post by jerseyboy on May 15, 2015 7:07:39 GMT -5
I think he will be able to hit 70MPH as long as he gets a little more fuel and air feeding that 61mm..my 60mm Taiwan BBK will do 65 MPH on a stock carb,,well it has a 120 main so its not completely stock.I would do taller gears also,it will be hard to get stock gears doing 70MPH unless he is taching way into the red.
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Post by jerseyboy on May 15, 2015 7:02:29 GMT -5
Wonder what spring is stock,is it the 2K spring? and if I put a 1.5k how will that effect my lower rpm? Also the 1.5k will allow my belt to climb all the way up on the variator sooner giving me a lower rpm at a higher speed? Thats what I need.. I believe the stock main and stock clutch springs are 1000 rpm. I have all stock springs in right now , and my clutch engages around 2700 - 3000 rpms. My scoot will surge around 2700 to 3000 rpms like it wants to take off at warmup , because the clutch is beginning to engage. Some say they are 500 or 750 rpm but if that were true the clutch would engage much sooner. Usually when our scoots warm up the rpms are pretty close to 3000 , so I'm not sure why the main would be a 500 or 750 . for instance a 2000 main is rated to engag 2000 rpms above recommended idle " which is 1700 rpms ". If you are running a stock main the only way to run a higher mph at a lower rpm would be heavier weights , and that's if the scoot has the power to turn the heavier weights so that You can reach a higher speed at a lower rpm. I'd like to see what a 28mm carb does for your scoots performance. Yeah me too,,I bet it wouldn't hurt having a bigger carb,,my clutch starts engaging around 2700 like yours with the stock springs,,but Im not too sure about the contra spring,,dont know which way to go with it,,its a stock spring now and i dont know what size it is. |
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Post by jerseyboy on May 14, 2015 6:24:09 GMT -5
It just may be that the lower gears will work better if you have less power,,I cruise at 50 mph 6k rpm barely crackin the throttle and pull big hills at over 40 mph,,and thats where I really spend alot of my time at,,if I had lower or stock gears I would be close to 7K at 50 mph,,I know my variator is not pushing my belt all the way too the top so I really have to get a better variator sooner or later,,especially now that I got the NCY clutch and all,,minus well do it right,,i bet a better variator will really help out,,my scoot will only do around 64 MPH at 7.5K rpm. Hey Geh,,I found a socket that fits the big clutch nut at Auto Zone for like $8 or so,,I think it was 1-1/4" I will look tomorrow,,I think its supposed to be metric but this one fits perfect That's also were I am . I hit 50 pretty much right at 6k , 60 around 6800 rpms . then as I reach the 7k range my belt must raise up a little higher , because I've been maxim out around 7100 rpms on a straight run at 66 mph. The 1500 main spring should keep the belt from raising up the variator until closer to 7500 rpms . if I can get the extra horse power to kick in , I should be able to hold the 7500 rpms with the belt at full climb. Right now I do not have the horse power to crack the 7100 rpm mark on the straight run. So all I need to do is postpone the belt climb a little . the 2000 kept the clutch closed too long , and was not getting full climb until over 8k . I'll have to get one of those sockets , thanks for letting me know. Wonder what spring is stock,is it the 2K spring? and if I put a 1.5k how will that effect my lower rpm? Also the 1.5k will allow my belt to climb all the way up on the variator sooner giving me a lower rpm at a higher speed? Thats what I need.. |
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Post by jerseyboy on May 13, 2015 20:51:08 GMT -5
I just put one of those mini tachs on my lawn mower,,it came with a book that told you how to set it up for different firing sequences. Im pretty sure the GY6 4 stroke fires every revolution even on the exhaust stroke,,heck the flywheel sends a signal to the CDI every revolution right,,that gives us a wasted spark on exhaust stroke..but its still an RPM even though its not firing |
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Post by jerseyboy on May 13, 2015 20:41:42 GMT -5
It just may be that the lower gears will work better if you have less power,,I cruise at 50 mph 6k rpm barely crackin the throttle and pull big hills at over 40 mph,,and thats where I really spend alot of my time at,,if I had lower or stock gears I would be close to 7K at 50 mph,,I know my variator is not pushing my belt all the way too the top so I really have to get a better variator sooner or later,,especially now that I got the NCY clutch and all,,minus well do it right,,i bet a better variator will really help out,,my scoot will only do around 64 MPH at 7.5K rpm. Hey Geh,,I found a socket that fits the big clutch nut at Auto Zone for like $8 or so,,I think it was 1-1/4" I will look tomorrow,,I think its supposed to be metric but this one fits perfect |
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Post by jerseyboy on May 12, 2015 6:29:08 GMT -5
Thats a pretty cool app,,it takes all the work out for you,,I need to get a smart phone one of these years,,I could not hear the motor after you got going,,that would have been nice.Sucker is running great!!
Be careful and have a great Summer!
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Post by jerseyboy on May 7, 2015 21:18:24 GMT -5
With the corn fuel we have now in the states it can happen in one year...lol I'm surprised at how long piaggio parts last while sittin in bad gas for 2+ years like the one I'm working on. I've cleaned out everything with minimal effort besides the carb which was a lot of effort but worked wonderfully on a scoot I'm working on. As far as my own scoot, I just changed my belt to a brand new MMG (modcycles) Kevlar belt. I know you guys all are in love with gates powerlinks but I am the same way about this company's Kevlar belts. I was lucky as was able to find a seller of it online, but they do not list it as MMG you have to ask them. Adjusted my valves to 0.006 each. Now I have an evil demon on ten inch wheels haha. The variator weights are 6.66, the scooter cruises at about 6.6k rpm lol... Cool,,man aren't your valves a little noisy set that loose,,mine are at .004 and get a little clacky after hot with synthetic? I was thinking about tightening them up too .003 but that will happen on its own if I leave them alone for a while.Atleast it did on my old chinese swiss cheese head..lol |
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Post by jerseyboy on May 7, 2015 21:16:37 GMT -5
Ramblinman...You should probably get some new gaskets, and re-torque the top end. That should stop the leaking. yeah, i probably should have ordered them last weekend. i thought i could get by without them. well, just finished for the 3rd time a couple hours ago. i'm going to let it dry for at least 36 hours this time and hopefully i won't need to do it again. we shall see, i reused the head gasket this time. seemed like the source of the leak. Yeah,,once a head gasket is crushed its really not a good idea to reuse it again..a new gasket kit is a few more bucks than a tube of the RTV and you get all the gaskets for the motor.I would use a thicker dino oil too like 10-40 at least,,If your using synthetic it has a tendancy to find small leaks and makes more valve tran noise,,I am going to switch back to a good dino and just change it every 1000km.Cheap enough. |
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Post by jerseyboy on May 7, 2015 6:35:16 GMT -5
Just ordered a new carb & intake to solve vacuum troubles. Amazing what goes bad just sitting for 5 years... With the corn fuel we have now in the states it can happen in one year...lol |
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Post by jerseyboy on May 7, 2015 6:33:00 GMT -5
Actually i just want to fix that rattle noise. i don't want to change the inside. So, cutting it where i marked it in the picture will allow me to take out what is inside and make repairs? If I don't remember wrong you want be able to see into the muffler because of the "chamber wall" at the back. I suspect that the rattling sound you hear is one of the tubes that runs between the chambers because which is loose. But if you are lucky it could be that last pipe at the end of the muffler and you will see it and be able to weld it back again. Here's a good video of how it can looks like inside: That guy did a good job stripping that muffler out,,sounded great when he was done. |
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Post by jerseyboy on May 6, 2015 6:20:17 GMT -5
I had a similar muffler and cleaned it out so that it became free flow. There are several chambers in the muffler so I had to cut it at both the back and the front and then make a cut along the muffler from the front to the back to get it opened. There is a pipe that winds back and forth inside the muffler which makes the exhaust pass each chamber. On my exhaust system there was also a small catalyst mounted on the pipe inside the muffler... I ripped everything out and welded a 2" exhaust pipe right through the inside of the muffler. Finally I mounted my own "DB-killer".  If you drill a few rows of holes in that 2" pipe around the entire circumference&length then pack fiberglass around the outside of the pipe that will get rid of most of your crackle db(without losing any flow, your damper does look a little restrictive to me) and cause more of a deep thump,,I've built many free flow exhausts and if you duplicate a glass pack they work well as the glass deadens the sound that gets forced through the holes pretty well and still allows full free flow through the pipe:) |
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Post by jerseyboy on May 5, 2015 19:02:11 GMT -5
I would cut the end where the seam is,,since you will have it open you should make some mods to the baffle,,make the holes a bit bigger so it free flows,,then install UNI Pod and upjet,,that motor will love you,it will sound alot deeper also!
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Post by jerseyboy on May 5, 2015 18:59:26 GMT -5
Just finished adjusting the valves on scooter #1. First time ever adjusting valves on the scoot. It actually took me way longer just disassembling/reassembling to get to the valves than it did to actually adjust them. Its the first valve adjustment for the bike... ever (first owner/370 miles said that he had not had them done but that they were due). They were closed up... could not get a gauge in there. I'll see if the "rumble" at idle goes away. I kind of dreaded this ( I hate to touch something that is working pretty well for fear of screwing something up), but I think that now it is spot on. While I was in there, I took out the spark plug and had a look. After 300 miles, it looks very good.... not rich, not lean. Hahaha,,the first time I did mine took me like an hour just to get the plastic off,,now I have done it so many times I can do a valve adjust in 30 minutes maybe less. |
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