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Post by carasdad on Jan 19, 2014 11:22:20 GMT -5
Ok..sounds like slider wear also. True as you said..you can reshape a spring..but as ya know..once you do it must be annealed again to regain its temper. Regardless..they do wear quicker than stock springs..even without a Big Bore Kit. Flipping them over does give super hot take off..and I have done this just to drag race folks. But for normal daily driving long distances as I do..I install them normally so my 70cc BBK can get me up to 56mph..yet cruise easily at 50mph without the engine revving as high. Anyway I would also check engine compression as it fades slowly..therefore we miss it and just notice a slight and gradual performance decrease. But it also sounds like weights and springs need to be replaced. Filing them down also keeps the variator from opening all the way..which degrades speed..  |
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Post by carasdad on Jan 19, 2014 10:51:27 GMT -5
Slow down on all the replies..I can't keep up..lol  All these views but not any input..so maybe I worded it wrong? Or possibly it is common knowledge and I am just a late bloomer?..  |
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Post by carasdad on Jan 18, 2014 22:39:06 GMT -5
Instead of using the green ground wire from the harness connector..try placing your black lead on the frame or engine for a ground. If it gets better..the stator ground may be bad or loose. Try that and let us know..  |
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Post by carasdad on Jan 18, 2014 22:13:54 GMT -5
BN? Wonder if that means it is made by Bashan?..  |
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Post by carasdad on Jan 18, 2014 21:34:25 GMT -5
One thing I have not seen anyone post about here are commonly mismatched parts.. The number one most common one I see on folks Scoots are replacement pistons that are not correct for the cylinder. I have though seen posts and incidents in person where someone orders a new piston and performance degrades from even worse than the worn original piston and rings. It seems we fail to remember that the piston ports must match the cylinder they are going in. Below are a few pics of different style pistons. Take note of how large and how small the piston ports are..how high up or low down they are from the piston skirt. If they don't match the cylinders porting..performance degradation will occur. The last pic shown here is of a new Athena Aluminum 2 ring cylinder kit I have. Note not only how small the cylinder port is in comparison to most kits..but look at the piston port. It is only a notch at the bottom of the piston and not 2 elongated holes in the piston like many kits. I myself have simply bought new piston kits..tossed them in..then wondered why it was hard to tune and performance stunk.. Now I match the old piston to the replacement one before ordering and have found the performance was back to its original power output. Just some food for thought..something to ponder..and a chance for you 2T gurus here that build some of these monster machines we see on this site..to possibly explain and enlighten us regarding this vast array of piston designs we see..and how each affects us. So please input as much as possible. I think this has been an overlooked and never discussed issue with our Scoots.. Thanks, Glenn P.S. I don't have a photo account anywhere to post the pics from..so here is a link to my post with pics on another forum.. 49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/7886/commonly-mismatched-parts |
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Post by carasdad on Jan 18, 2014 21:00:48 GMT -5
does the 3 clutch and T springs wearout? I put about 4500 mi. on the springs and now they feel like the orig. sprg. So, what I did is, I took the spings off the clutch and gave them a half turn to tighten. It worked for a while now getting slower. Depends on the rating of the springs. I run 2k clutch springs and 1.5k contra springs with 5 gram slider weights with my big bore kit. My clutch springs hold up for about 2,000 miles whereas the contra spring lasts around 1,000 miles. They get weak from heat and from fighting the roller weights..and this is common. Stock springs last longer because they do not suffer that extra stress..but then they don't give the performance we seek..hence the reason we replaced them with performance springs. Anytime we seek performance whether a car..scoot..motorcycle atv etc..there is a going to be a trade off. Another is that my piston rings don't last as long as stock 40mm ones either. Again just a small price I pay for the jet like performance of my setup. I am not understanding what you mean where you say..you gave the springs a half turn to tighten them. They are not adjustable..or was your clutch nut loose? Glenn |
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Post by carasdad on Jan 18, 2014 17:51:09 GMT -5
squish head or hump type head. whats the difference ? I already added a pipe and changed rollers and springs with great results. I also up-jetted the carb. and open element filter. Good question!! Would be kewl to see pics posted of the 2. I see kits claiming a squish type head..every head looks different in pics of those kits also. I installed one kit for a friend where LITERALLY...the only dish the head had..was a recessed area for the spark plug! Pre ignition was so bad the engine sounded like it was filled with a tube of Daisy BB's. Took 2 base gasket and 2 head gaskets..yet it still 'pinged' running  octane. So can somebody post a few pics of the difference between the 2? Glenn |
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Post by carasdad on Jan 15, 2014 20:08:03 GMT -5
I made one for 3 bux like this..took 20 mins or so. Girlfriend has used it 3 years now with no problems. I used 1/2x3/4' aluminum angle stock I bought for 3 bux at Menards....Home Depot and all other big chain hardware stores carry it as well. Here is a pic. Easy to do and $45.00 cheaper than buying one..  Glenn Ok won't let me load a pic..so here is a link..it is the 4th post down. Click the pic and you will see how to save $45.00 and mount your muffler up solid.. 49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/4617/carb-rejetting-necessary-exhaustDang, from what I can tell it looks like a good set-up, but since I'm not a member, I can't see any more than the thumbnail. I will inbox you a pic of it close up.. Glenn EDIT: Nope it won't let me..hmmm |
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Post by carasdad on Jan 15, 2014 20:06:40 GMT -5
Alley..that works too...yes sir..sure beats buying one. Times have changed..back in your and my day..we made stuff..recycled stuff..now folks just buy vice make..and toss away vice recycle. Everything is disposable..yet our generation takes the blame for waste and pollution?.. |
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Post by carasdad on Jan 15, 2014 19:42:23 GMT -5
I made one for 3 bux like this..took 20 mins or so. Girlfriend has used it 3 years now with no problems. I used 1/2x3/4' aluminum angle stock I bought for 3 bux at Menards....Home Depot and all other big chain hardware stores carry it as well. Here is a pic. Easy to do and $45.00 cheaper than buying one.. Glenn Ok won't let me load a pic..so here is a link..it is the 4th post down. Click the pic and you will see how to save $45.00 and mount your muffler up solid.. 49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/4617/carb-rejetting-necessary-exhaust |
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Post by carasdad on Jan 12, 2014 12:36:07 GMT -5
I purchased a high performance 2 stroke intake manifold from Scrappydawg Scooters and a 21 mm Mikuni manual choke carb. The intake manifold has 2 vacuum ports. What are these ports used for....1 for oil injection? Maybe? The other for what? The carb does not a have oil injection port on it. So, need help in figuring out what lines go where. Any help or a diagram would be very helpful! One for oil injection and one for petcock vacuum if the replacement carb does not have these fittings. |
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Post by carasdad on Jan 11, 2014 22:24:06 GMT -5
Here ya go...as a Moto-Cross racer for several years.. I shattered my left leg. It is common to put a leg down in tight turns as ya know. We are talking about professional riders..that ride daily and have lots of experience..but even for them it is dangerous. Anyway..as I entered a steep sharp berm I put my leg down to help make the turn. At about only 30-35 mph my foot hit firmly in the dirt...was stopped in it's place..snapped in 3 places and flipped up backward to about my waist level!! The video was so graphic it blew my mind..and made me sick to watch..  My daughter got her Scoot at age 15 and while riding would dangle a leg as well. No longer having the video to show her..I simulated the injury..and you should do this too. I had her hold an uncooked..raw..hard piece of Spaghetti in her left hand and walk across the living room carpeting. Then while walking..I told her to keep her pace..BUT bend down slightly and barely touch the tip of Spaghetti to the carpeting while still walking. The instant the tip touched the carpet...the piece of pasta shattered into tiny pieces. Then I told her.."Remember the limp I had for a long time?..that is exactly what my leg looked like when it touched the ground also... So tell me now..do your prefer Crutches or a Wheelchair so I can buy one or the other tomorrow" I admit I was a bit gruff with my kids..but being retired Military I had learned that "please don't do that" only works if someone already has plans not to do something..while the fear gained from experiencing or seeing reality..is often what it takes for we hard headed humans to learn something. |
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Post by carasdad on Jan 11, 2014 21:31:57 GMT -5
i have read in several forums that you need something like .5 volts ac from the pickup where as I'm getting only about .2vac (assuming I'm measuring correctly) from both the new and old pickup coils. or maybe the voltage I'm getting from the power wire (about 50-60vac) isn't enough... 50-60 VAC should work fine. The .2 for the pickup is low.. HOWEVER it is often low..if not close enough to the flywheel. It does have a slight amount of room for movement. I turn the flywheel until the trigger on it is right below the pickup..then barely loosen the 2 bolts..Place a .10 feeler gauge between them and move the pickup down until it touches the feeler gauge..then tighten the bolts down. You have to remember that with very low voltage that is normally .5vac-1.0 vac... the distance from the magnet becomes more important than with a high voltage circuit such as your charging and ignition system. Hence..this the reason the inductance(pickup system) is adjustable while the other systems are not. So check that gap.. Glenn... <--- Glenn may cause...neck pain..back pain ...dizziness...headaches..nausea...vomiting...diarrhea.....constipation....hemorrhoids.......watery eyes....decrease in vision....increase in flatuence....impotence.....hives....testicular cancer.....moderate to severe hallucinations......and accelerated hair loss....Glenn may not be right for everyone......so ask your doctor.......if Glenn is right for you..... A Johnson and Johnson company....a name you can trust...  |
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Post by carasdad on Jan 11, 2014 13:42:44 GMT -5
was adjusting my valves, as I was putting my 4 bolts back into the valve cover, 2 of them snapped... I was able to get the rest of the broken bolts out, but cannot find replacement screws anywhere online. Does anyone know where I can find the screws online; and any tips to prevent this from happening again? Thank you.. Hardware store..metric bolts..take one with ya to match the size. .25 cents each last time I bought some..or if ya wish $6.00+shipping for 4 of them from a parts dealer. Tip: Tighten them with 1/4" drive socket so ya don't get too much leverage..SNUG not tight!! They are valve cover bolts..not head bolts for a Chevy 400 Big Block.. |
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Post by carasdad on Jan 11, 2014 7:51:18 GMT -5
Just curious why they send extra rockers with the kit..is this for a 69mm head..so they send the longer rockers?.. That kit is a good one. Never installed one myself but a guy here in town did and gave me the sellers names to search Ebay for them. Never did find them....so thanks for your link. His puts out enough power that there is no need to run the engine hard to get speed and acceleration..which tells me the kit should last a good while.. |
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octane. So can somebody post a few pics of the difference between the 2?
