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Post by geo49 on Dec 8, 2013 14:53:28 GMT -5
What is involved in changing a two stroke crankshaft? Does it involve splitting the case?
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Post by alleyoop on Dec 8, 2013 15:40:30 GMT -5
Yes, need to split the case Alleyoop
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Post by jjjoseph on Dec 13, 2013 17:24:43 GMT -5
You need to split the crankcase, but it's best to have the right tools so you don't damage anything. The crankshaft bearings can be fitted really tight into the bearing recess and it's easier to use an extraction tool, similar to a flywheel puller, rather than trying to wiggle the case apart, or worse, prying it apart.
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Post by geo49 on Dec 14, 2013 14:38:19 GMT -5
I don't think I want to go that far right now since the scoot doe's run well. But would like to cruise without being WOT all the time and maybe get up hills without loosing speed. I already changed to a sport pipe, up jetted and did the rollers and springs and am now thinking about a BBK. Any idea on a bbk that would increase power and not have to change the crank? I have ridden some scoots with bbk and didn't seam to have the power of my 50cc scoot and am trying to avoid a kit that will cause no increase in power or make it feel like it's slower than it was as a 50cc.
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Post by skuttadawg on Dec 16, 2013 23:23:35 GMT -5
According to Mo at Scrappys a stock 2T crank should handle up to 10,500 RPMs . When my 2T was a 50 with stock pipe it maxed at 8k . I put on a MODCycles 47mm BBK , PM Racing pipe and Uni now it hits 10,500 but I try to not go above 9k . I have ridden for miles around 9k with no issue . I do wind it out for a few seconds at top RPM then back off .
A street kit and pipe you should be fine . Now the single ring racing kits can scream up to 14k and racing cranks some are rated up to 18k yes 18k RPMs . It would require case splitting . If you want I can look up the how to link on it .
I had waaaaay more power and speed with my BBK on my 2T compared to going from a secret 63 to a 50mm or 82cc BBK on my 4T . The PM Racing pipe is unrestricted , much too loud and I had a takeoff loss since it did not build up back pressure , but mid range I could pop a wheelie at 50 MPH and top end went beyond the speedo .
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Post by geo49 on Dec 17, 2013 1:52:28 GMT -5
At this point I'd rather not swap out cranks, since it only has about 1400 miles on her. She doe's run well but I'd like to get a little more top end. I top out at about 42 -43 MPH .
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Post by dude on Dec 17, 2013 23:56:39 GMT -5
Maybe just a little cvt tuning. Sometimes just a squish head instead of a hump type head, add a a pipe.
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Post by geo49 on Dec 18, 2013 1:51:00 GMT -5
squish head or hump type head. whats the difference ? I already added a pipe and changed rollers and springs with great results. I also up-jetted the carb. and open element filter.
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Post by dude on Dec 18, 2013 23:25:36 GMT -5
A hump head is a EPA or mileage type head. A squish head is a better design head for a 2stk. A squish style works better and increases compression. Even on a 50cc.
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Post by skuttadawg on Dec 28, 2013 22:57:25 GMT -5
Geo49 have you made any mods at all to your scoot ? When I bought my 2T first thing I replaced the 68MJ with a 75MJ and replaced the standard NGK with the iridium one . It would always hit 45 MPH ( on the speedo ) and sometimes 50 . It would max out at 8k RPMS while riding . On the CS I revved it up just for a fraction of second to see if it would go beyond 8K . If I went down hill and if it went above 8K RPMs it would stall and fizzle . I decided to get a racing CDI that did not have a rev limit . No diff at all on top end with the same 8K limitation . My dealer said maybe I should try lighter rollers . I removed and weighed them to be a starting point . They were 6G . I tried some 4Gs but it over revved on takeoff and lost top end . I mixed them up to equal 5G and it was a hair better on take off with as much top end loss as with 4G . Hitting 45 is quite good as many modded 4ts can not go that fast . Here is two links on derestricting and tuning www.scootnfast.com/scooter/Tuning_mods/De-Restricting.htm and www.provoscooter.com/tuningI pulled off the 49cc engine and noticed the exhaust port was D shaped instead of being fully ported out like the BBK is with a O shaped exhaust port . I had read a great 2T exhaust thread by Brent " The 2T God " and noted that he said many stock pipes are limited to 8,500 RPMs , sport pipes around 10,500 and the expensive pipes 14k and up . I had bought a PM Tuning racing pipe that I first tried to fit on the 49cc engine but I could not get it lined up . With the BBK it lined up the first try . The exhaust places a more important factor on a 2T than a 4T . I had a Honda CR 125 that wasa beast and one day a buddy accidentally spun a rock into my pipe and busted it . Man it killed the power big time . I had a buddy weld it up but it blew out the weld as the metal was no good . A new pipe and it was a wheelie machine again . The PMT pipe I lost bottom end since it was unrestricted which did allow for backpressue to build up . Midrange and top end it was a screamer . I replaced the PMT with the stock pipe and it had more bottom and midrange and was much quieter . The stock pipe has a reed valve just before the expansion chamber than released exhaust at 8k RPMs back into the airbox . I had already removed the airbox to use a Uni . I first ran it with the reed valve uncapped . I noticed it got louder at 8K and the powerband dropped a hair . For now it is taped up but I will do a permanent cap off soon . When it was stock is was not a fast off the line like a buddies Honda Elite but I would smoke him at midrange and top end with ease . Once I got going past 45 MPH it was screaming , even uphill with a running start I got hit 10,500 RPMs and not able to push it hard down hill . I will have to get some taller gears so I can cruise at 45 or more without having it scream and guzzle up gas . I did put in 8g sliders since I figured it would lower the RPMs compared to the 5g rollers . I put in 1.5k Hoca clutch springs to help on takeoff . With the PMT pipe is was not as peppy on takeoff but with the stock pipe I can make it jump even with heavy weights and 13 wheels instead of 10s . You can also try a larger diameter variator as I will be doing myself . The larger diameter and steeper ramps can often help on the top end . Mine also gotten faster after 1,000 miles since the piston moved easier than when it was tighter when new . To truly get more power a BBK is a for sure improvement . Since it is newsih I would enjoy the 50cc engine and do the BBK later on
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Post by geo49 on Dec 30, 2013 1:40:23 GMT -5
The scooter is a 2009 Yamati eurostrada RX8 The mods I've done are: Change they eghaust from stock to expansion pipe like on scrappy dog site under 2 stroke perf. parts. up jet carb. to # jet and open element air filter. Went from 4 gram to 4.5 gram rollers, 2000 rpm clutch and torque springs. It ran well with this setup. I did have a problem with the splitter on the throttle cable and think I might have to mess with that to make sure the throttle opens all the way. That and a fresh set of roller weights I think might help. I did bypass the oil pump after it started leaking and am running premix now.
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Post by Mainely Scooters on Jan 18, 2014 17:31:00 GMT -5
The scooter is a 2009 Yamati eurostrada RX8 The mods I've done are: Change they eghaust from stock to expansion pipe like on scrappy dog site under 2 stroke perf. parts. up jet carb. to # jet and open element air filter. Went from 4 gram to 4.5 gram rollers, 2000 rpm clutch and torque springs. It ran well with this setup. I did have a problem with the splitter on the throttle cable and think I might have to mess with that to make sure the throttle opens all the way. That and a fresh set of roller weights I think might help. I did bypass the oil pump after it started leaking and am running premix now. You have no real need for a new crank, unless there is something wrong with your current one. You will get the best bang for the buck with a new cylinder/head. And it is much easier to do.
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Post by carasdad on Jan 18, 2014 17:51:09 GMT -5
squish head or hump type head. whats the difference ? I already added a pipe and changed rollers and springs with great results. I also up-jetted the carb. and open element filter. Good question!! Would be kewl to see pics posted of the 2. I see kits claiming a squish type head..every head looks different in pics of those kits also. I installed one kit for a friend where LITERALLY...the only dish the head had..was a recessed area for the spark plug! Pre ignition was so bad the engine sounded like it was filled with a tube of Daisy BB's. Took 2 base gasket and 2 head gaskets..yet it still 'pinged' running octane. So can somebody post a few pics of the difference between the 2? Glenn
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Post by alleyoop on Jan 18, 2014 18:38:09 GMT -5
I think they mean a piston that the head is pretty much flat and one that actually is domed and not flat. The squish area is around the top sides of the piston. Alleyoop
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