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Post by carasdad on Sept 2, 2013 21:09:20 GMT -5
Proof that inhaling gas fumes causes brain damage. I think this dude had a lil too much Toluene in his fresh air supply...even my Yamaha 2T DT250 Enduro couldn't top his Scoot...wow... grandrapids.craigslist.org/mcy/3986414878.html
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Copy key
by: carasdad - Sept 2, 2013 20:30:39 GMT -5
Post by carasdad on Sept 2, 2013 20:30:39 GMT -5
I found a set of em on Amazon for just a few dollars Got a link to that Kevin?..tx.
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Post by carasdad on Sept 1, 2013 8:22:19 GMT -5
That is a 50cc and biggest you can go is 52mm for most engines...not all are 'drop in'...as some need the engine block bored to accept the larger cylinder.
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Post by carasdad on Aug 29, 2013 12:38:41 GMT -5
Did ya check the fuse?...
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Post by carasdad on Aug 28, 2013 19:43:51 GMT -5
DX I have measured many cheaper Chinese belts. Many are much wider than supposed to be. 1mm seems tiny...but..it has lots of affect on your take off and speed. Reason being is that your CVT and Rear Pulley system 'shift' to a higher ratio too soon. This loads the engine so it cannot rev into its powerband. Also be it 28 or 30 degree bevel angle on the belt...those too are frequently incorrect...so they don't ride on the CVT or Rear Pulley's correctly..again affecting your take off or top end.
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A9 cam...
by: carasdad - Aug 28, 2013 16:33:16 GMT -5
Post by carasdad on Aug 28, 2013 16:33:16 GMT -5
Also the LSA (lobe separation angle) affects the performance. The difference is so small on these engine cams that you need a degree wheel and runout gauge to measure. Too many subtle things that make a big difference can not be 'eye balled' I did a cam test and measuring for a parts dealer..here is an excerpt from what we found..and emailed back to them * So far this is what I have but we are going to verify it before we say yes. The cam with all the holes(looks like #2 cause then Pen marks smudged) It has intake lobe widest point is 25.78 exhaust widest point 25.67.. lift is 5.86 LSA (Lobe seperation angle) is 119 degrees. Meeting the criteria for an A9 cam The one marked #1..again hard to see as the numbers smudged..but is the one with only 3 holes. It has intake lobe widest point is 24.48 exhaust widest point 24.52.. lift is 5.02 LSA (Lobe separation angle) is 116 degrees. Which meets the criteria for an A8 cam. Even though the first one I mentioned above is only slightly different from the second one. Those 3 degrees more separation combined with the wider lobe and higher lift allows the valves to stay open longer....allowing more time for a larger intake volume and exhaust volume. Hence the reason they rev higher and have more power output than the A8 cam with its lift specs..lobe width and the 116 duration. *.. That snip from the email should either help you...or confuse you...lol.. ;D
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Post by carasdad on Aug 25, 2013 16:12:40 GMT -5
How many miles on it?.. May be a valve adjustment problem.
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Post by carasdad on Aug 24, 2013 11:36:13 GMT -5
First off...check your compression and tell us what ya get. Too high to crank nearly always means too high to run without engine destroying detonation. Some Big Bore kits have way too much compression if using your stock head..reason why many double up on the base or head gasket. Sure they make high torque starters..but what is the sense in that...if the excessive compression is going to ruin your build? Lithium Ion batteries have size for size..right about twice the Lead Acid batteries Cold Cranking Amps and would spin it right over. But again..is the compression so high it is going to kill your new build? I'd test compression first.. ;D
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Post by carasdad on Aug 22, 2013 21:53:32 GMT -5
! Bull Shazz! No way you're going to tell me that the original engine of what looks to be like a 50cc gets any more than 21k Miles! Besides, a china bike with 214k miles on does not look new like that bike does! When you click on the photo it says 214 miles, not 214,000. lol It's a farce! Hold up now man..maybe he uses Turtle Wax and Armor All daily to keep it so fresh..then he added the 3,000 mile shipping to his odometer? Nope that still does not make 214K. Possibly he meant he has a tooth that is 21K Gold?..
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Post by carasdad on Aug 22, 2013 20:57:39 GMT -5
[replyingto=spandi]spandi[/replyingto]Most likely he delivers Chinese CDI's...Lightbulbs and Belts..but I have been lucky cause most of those will last up to a week or more. 4 months in fact if you store the Scoot for winter.. So for that mileage it comes out to about 214 oil changes..hmm..4 bucks a quart = $856.00. Yikes...Oil cost him more than the Scoot did!!..
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Post by carasdad on Aug 22, 2013 20:27:45 GMT -5
[replyingto=spandi]spandi[/replyingto]Yeah..just did the math..he put on about 33k per year. I would quit my job if the commute was that long...cause even on a Scoot the gas cost would be outrageous...
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Post by carasdad on Aug 22, 2013 20:04:41 GMT -5
[replyingto=spandi]spandi[/replyingto]Wow!!..and I was surprised when I sold a kid a 2004 Tank Urban Sporty that had 18,200 miles. All stock..belt ...plug etc. 1,000 miles later he needed a new belt...even the Bando one had its limit. I did a few valve adjustments and replaced the fuel filter once in all those miles. Kid is still riding it..needs rings BADLY..he puts out more smog than Los Angelos.. ;D But 214,000 miles..sounds like my Moms '92 Volvo GL..still going.. spandi..ok..just a guess.. but do you think he has 1 or 2 too many zeros in his post??..
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Post by carasdad on Aug 22, 2013 19:23:00 GMT -5
Whoa!! Slow down on all the replies I can't keep up.Oh wait...there are none... Got 'er done!.. But now quieter than a stock 50cc 4T with stock muffler. Does not over heat like it did... 1/2 mile and can was so hot you could not touch it...in fact after an 8 mile run to Fennville the silencer can was barely warm to the touch. Low end is back..but not like it was when new..so maybe a lil more or lil less?
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Post by carasdad on Aug 22, 2013 8:20:20 GMT -5
Need to repack my Tecnigas Next R Silencer can. Engine was running rich..then suddenly got louder...was losing power and getting VERY hot. This particular can does not have a complete wrap around the center pipe..it is actually 2 channel shaped halves that go on each side of the inner pipe seem. First few layers are petrified and rock hard almost...outer layers are still soft. If you squeeze the packing it looks like a kitchen sponge...except instead of soapy water an oil/fuel residue comes out in huge amounts. My question is..how critical is the packing compression.. i.e. light layer...medium layer or a real tight fit in the can. Also not sure how to wrap it as the Tecnigas pipes come with 2 halves vice a single wrap all around the inner pipe. Will repacking mess up my performance? It is shot already however..runs hot and bottom end is non existent. I just don't want to ruin the engine or pipe. When I raced MotoCross it was easy...cause the sponsor just bought a whole new exhaust system from engine to the tip of the silencer. But I can't afford a new Tecnigas pipe every 1,000 miles or so. Odd that lots of posts here are about modding a stock muffler...yet none about aftermarket performance pipe issues or maintenance.. This leads me to believe my burnt and crusted tuned pipe is a rare occurrence with Scooters...or is repacking them part of normal service?
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Post by carasdad on Aug 21, 2013 7:16:47 GMT -5
Maybe you could do as I do with them. Put it on the center stand with side stand extended...remove lower shock bolt..move shock back off block and out of the way...then grab the front brake slightly and push it forward until the engine drops and it is resting on the side stand. The engine drops about 10-12 inches and you have full access to the engine and the floorboard.. Just one bolt and lowering the engine vice removing the whole engine. Had to do that for the BBK...then later for valve adjustments. Takes about 2 minutes to do this and you don't need to unplug wiring..disconnect brakes and all the other stuff to get to the engine...everything else remains intact.
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