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frustrated
by: 125scooterbro - Oct 27, 2017 12:54:26 GMT -5
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Post by 125scooterbro on Oct 27, 2017 12:54:26 GMT -5
Does that model have a fuel pump or is it gravity fed it has a fuel pump, i will order a new one since it is the only thing i can think of
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frustrated
by: 125scooterbro - Oct 27, 2017 12:08:27 GMT -5
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Post by 125scooterbro on Oct 27, 2017 12:08:27 GMT -5
Scooter year, brand, model, 2 or 4-stroke engine, modifications? 2006, Qingqi 125-10D, 4 stroke, no modifications
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frustrated
by: 125scooterbro - Oct 27, 2017 11:08:04 GMT -5
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Post by 125scooterbro on Oct 27, 2017 11:08:04 GMT -5
From what you say is sounds like a vacuum leak Maybe you have a cracked line ? Check for a hose knocked loose i do check, like i say they are new and tight at the ends
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frustrated
by: 125scooterbro - Oct 27, 2017 10:05:35 GMT -5
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Post by 125scooterbro on Oct 27, 2017 10:05:35 GMT -5
About 2 weeks ago my throttle cable snap, after i fix that the engine runs poor starts but then dies after 2 min, also a Pst! Pst! sound that seems to come from the carb, first thing that come in my mind was an air leak so i take everthing apart check everything but i dont see anything, i buy a new carb since it was old then the problem persist so i replace the intake manifold and also put a good quality sealant on the rubber O ring, the fuel hoses was already new but i double check everything but still the same sound and when i give throttle it dies. Very strange because before the throttle cable snap everything was working perfect, Any help would be welcome
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Running rich
by: 125scooterbro - Oct 11, 2017 16:36:54 GMT -5
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Post by 125scooterbro on Oct 11, 2017 16:36:54 GMT -5
Sorry for butting in but have you checked your oil level? That would SURE make it hot if the level of oil was really low. Also, I did some research on oils which have a lot of zink (ZDDP) in them and found that Valvoline Heavy Duty Cummins Diesel oil has the most in it. ZDDP is the best anti-friction element you can get that protects metal surfaces against friction wear, especially cams and lifters and cylinder walls. Have been using it a long time and have had absolutely no wear on my scooters and BMW R90/6. The EPA made oil companies take it out of oils because of their concern over polution, but, moreover, when cars started using catalitic converters, they suspected ZDDP was stopping them up (?). I use the Cummins Valvoline in all my cars and have had no problems. The Cummins label is on the front of the jug. Also, by what you said about your exhaust being oily, that would indicate the rings or cylinder are worn out. Good luck. the Old Zipper in the end the engine was beat up, i think the ex owner never change the oil on the poor thing from what i hear, YES they are people like this who own machines and never change oil, i just spare it for parts. Thanks anyway
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Post by 125scooterbro on Oct 9, 2017 1:36:32 GMT -5
You can test if you have a air leak by putting start gas around the intake or fuel lines, carb and see if the engine rpm goes higher, put the start gas on 1 part at the time so you know where you may have a leak
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Vibration
by: 125scooterbro - Sept 11, 2017 8:36:44 GMT -5
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Post by 125scooterbro on Sept 11, 2017 8:36:44 GMT -5
I'll chime in here and side with piston yet again,,,it's either the pads /bell glazed or a spot or two of grease/oil got on the swept area of the bell and is pulsing when the pads sweep thru the contamination this thing happen only on the first take off, when the engine is warm there is no vibration, i'm afraid it may be the piston because i do a complete service on the transmision not long ago and the day before i have this problem i may drive it to rough because i was in a hurry to get to work
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Post by 125scooterbro on Sept 10, 2017 16:07:47 GMT -5
Hi guys I'm a newb on here and new ish to riding. My 125 lexmoto auto spontaneously began popping and backfiring on low rpm tonight. Had a look through threads on here and may be the exhaust header pipe. An old post advised there should be 2 bolts where the pipe meets the motor. The 2 bolts are there without nuts. I am not sure if this is the cause? The exhaust doesn't feel loose and seems fitted tight to the motor at all points. I don't want to do too much fiddling myself but not happy taking it in to garage if it's a straight forward fix. The roads and potholes are a nightmare around me so I do wonder if the nuts have come loose while riding. Any pointers would be much appreciated! TU 👍 i can think of 2 things, bad timing or running to rich also a new spark plug will help
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Vibration
by: 125scooterbro - Sept 10, 2017 15:54:06 GMT -5
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Post by 125scooterbro on Sept 10, 2017 15:54:06 GMT -5
Before i take apart something, today when i start the scoot and get ready to go i have vibrations after i take off. but after i reach about 20 kmph it was gone, my guess is the transmision?
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Post by 125scooterbro on Aug 15, 2017 2:11:32 GMT -5
Thoughts ? ill go with the quantum, nice design and decent quality, my friend own one for some time
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exhaust gasket
by: 125scooterbro - Aug 10, 2017 16:18:54 GMT -5
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Post by 125scooterbro on Aug 10, 2017 16:18:54 GMT -5
He Needs the Proper Compression Gasket, you act whip that up with gasket material. calm down there big guy i just say my opinion, if he will get that round metal gasket it's up to him, but this is the best in my opinion because after all we buy a chinese scooter because parts are cheap and try to spend as less as we can on them, i don't act like nothing but i see you do by thinking you know everything
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exhaust gasket
by: 125scooterbro - Aug 9, 2017 15:21:50 GMT -5
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Post by 125scooterbro on Aug 9, 2017 15:21:50 GMT -5
if you dont have a exhaust gasket you first notice vibrations from the engine plus you can have gaps between engine and exhaust and that's not good at all, as dirt can enter the engine and you can loose compression. You can buy gasket material and do your own one like i do, more cheap and plenty
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Post by 125scooterbro on Aug 9, 2017 14:57:20 GMT -5
So I just discovered that my GY6 150cc rear wheel significantly "rubs" against about 33% of the rear drum when I turn it. Obviously, this is bad both for fuel economy as well as the health of the drum itself and the brake shoes. Given that the drum is integral to the wheel on these scooters does this mean I need a new wheel? (I'm highly doubtful that anyone would be willing to machine the drum true and besides, it likely would cost more that a replacement). Thoughts/experience? Michael il tell you from my own experience. i had same problem like you, what i do is i remove the wheel and grind the pads with hard sand papper as i have some nasty build up of dirt also some rust and then with a fine one and after i have 0% friction problem solved, no need to buy a new wheel unless it's not round
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Running rich
by: 125scooterbro - Jul 30, 2017 3:52:59 GMT -5
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Post by 125scooterbro on Jul 30, 2017 3:52:59 GMT -5
but as the jets do not seem to make it run more lean and still hot what can i do to make it at least not hot as it is my main problem, the engine gets to hot and just after 10 or 15 minutes on the road it lose power and the engine produce a lot of heat You could always switch to a watercooled cylnder, althogh expensive and alot of work. Are all the plastic covers in place? Make sure no broke fins on cooling fan, and all plastic around engine is in place. yes they are, at the moment i give up on the project as i have my other scooter and the time is limited for me, but i will leave it until winter and start work on it then when the time is good for me. Thanks
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Running rich
by: 125scooterbro - Jul 27, 2017 13:45:17 GMT -5
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Post by 125scooterbro on Jul 27, 2017 13:45:17 GMT -5
I change the main jet with a smaller one. Still running hot, what can i do to fix it guys? If its hot go larger, not smaller. Rich engines run cooler... but as the jets do not seem to make it run more lean and still hot what can i do to make it at least not hot as it is my main problem, the engine gets to hot and just after 10 or 15 minutes on the road it lose power and the engine produce a lot of heat
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