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Post by mjsfoto1956 on Aug 7, 2017 6:58:35 GMT -5
So I just discovered that my GY6 150cc rear wheel significantly "rubs" against about 33% of the rear drum when I turn it. Obviously, this is bad both for fuel economy as well as the health of the drum itself and the brake shoes. Given that the drum is integral to the wheel on these scooters does this mean I need a new wheel? (I'm highly doubtful that anyone would be willing to machine the drum true and besides, it likely would cost more that a replacement).
Thoughts/experience?
Michael
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Post by pistonguy on Aug 7, 2017 8:46:48 GMT -5
My Sunny Hunter style Scoot came brand new with a nasty out of round rear drum, I had to back the brake off so much that the Rear Brake became next to useless. I discovered it right away with the Scoot on the stand.
I purchased another set of OE style Wheels, Color matched and they are only Slightly Better, still darn near a Worthless rear brake.
Ive been riding forever so It not a biggie to use almost all front brake.
I upgraded my Front brake line to Braided Stainless and it made a difference, One or Two Finger only for my front brakes.
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Post by pistonguy on Aug 7, 2017 8:51:08 GMT -5
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The PartsForScooters Guy
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Post by fugaziiv on Aug 7, 2017 9:18:30 GMT -5
Make sure that the output shaft on your bike is not just ever so slightly tweaked as well.
Matt
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Post by mjsfoto1956 on Aug 7, 2017 10:47:56 GMT -5
Make sure that the output shaft on your bike is not just ever so slightly tweaked as well. Matt Good advice. Other than using a straightedge and eyeballing, is there a better way to validate the output shaft is not tweaked? M |
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Post by pistonguy on Aug 7, 2017 12:57:20 GMT -5
Make sure that the output shaft on your bike is not just ever so slightly tweaked as well. Matt Good advice. Other than using a straightedge and eyeballing, is there a better way to validate the output shaft is not tweaked? M Ya you could do the Dial Indicator Set-Up to check for Runout. |
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The PartsForScooters Guy
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Post by fugaziiv on Aug 7, 2017 13:34:31 GMT -5
Good advice. Other than using a straightedge and eyeballing, is there a better way to validate the output shaft is not tweaked? M Ya you could do the Dial Indicator Set-Up to check for Runout. This would be my recommendation as well. Matt |
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Post by mjsfoto1956 on Aug 7, 2017 17:10:37 GMT -5
yikes, those can be expensive!
Any "decent/cheap" ones out there that you could/would recommend?
M
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Post by pistonguy on Aug 8, 2017 6:53:08 GMT -5
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Post by pistonguy on Aug 8, 2017 6:54:47 GMT -5
You can also check local Pawn shops for Dial Indicators, bases etc. sometime you can find a killer deal's on very high end measurement equipment.
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Post by mjsfoto1956 on Aug 9, 2017 10:19:16 GMT -5
So I decided to purchase a 13" GY6 "Roketa style" rear wheel with provision for bolting on a disc rotor in the future if needed (Note: my rear swing arm already has provision for mounting a rear caliper). I also ordered some "racing" drum shoes with slots to reduce the chance of glazing. Lastly I purchased a 140/60-13 Kenda tire (vs. the stock 130/70-12) which should deliver about 3% more top end as it has a bit more diameter than stock. I'm hoping these new drum brakes last for a while for I have other projects that are more pressing. But having near-zero rear brakes is simply a non-starter for me. I'll let you know how it goes.
M
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Post by 125scooterbro on Aug 9, 2017 14:57:20 GMT -5
So I just discovered that my GY6 150cc rear wheel significantly "rubs" against about 33% of the rear drum when I turn it. Obviously, this is bad both for fuel economy as well as the health of the drum itself and the brake shoes. Given that the drum is integral to the wheel on these scooters does this mean I need a new wheel? (I'm highly doubtful that anyone would be willing to machine the drum true and besides, it likely would cost more that a replacement). Thoughts/experience? Michael il tell you from my own experience. i had same problem like you, what i do is i remove the wheel and grind the pads with hard sand papper as i have some nasty build up of dirt also some rust and then with a fine one and after i have 0% friction problem solved, no need to buy a new wheel unless it's not round |
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Post by pistonguy on Aug 9, 2017 17:05:42 GMT -5
So I just discovered that my GY6 150cc rear wheel significantly "rubs" against about 33% of the rear drum when I turn it. Obviously, this is bad both for fuel economy as well as the health of the drum itself and the brake shoes. Given that the drum is integral to the wheel on these scooters does this mean I need a new wheel? (I'm highly doubtful that anyone would be willing to machine the drum true and besides, it likely would cost more that a replacement). Thoughts/experience? Michael il tell you from my own experience. i had same problem like you, what i do is i remove the wheel and grind the pads with hard sand papper as i have some nasty build up of dirt also some rust and then with a fine one and after i have 0% friction problem solved, no need to buy a new wheel unless it's not round The Drum is Out of Round thats the whole problem. like a nasty warped Rotor |
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Post by mjsfoto1956 on Aug 9, 2017 17:46:43 GMT -5
Well, the replacement parts are ordered.
When I disassemble everything I guess I'll finally figure out why a new, 300mi scooter has such behaviors.
Other than this new, unwanted behavior, and the lousy stock carburetor (replaced early on with a NIBBI CVK26), the bike has been pretty decent so far.
M
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Post by chewbaca on Aug 12, 2017 9:49:27 GMT -5
A lot of you are going to cringe when you read this.
But you can DIY your drum to round
Take a set of old used up pads and glue 400 G sandpaper to them
Cote with old motor oil before mounting
Set the bike on its center stand and run the brake just hard enough so you can hear the sand paper start to rub
Your going to change the paper a number of times before you get something resembling true
And I recommend a new bearing for the output shaft and new oil for the gearbox after
Just to be safe
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