So you are selling the same stuff we want to replace? How is this good?
The fastener sizes are available. We can buy non-China stuff and depend on it more. It costs a few cents more.
You have to provide better than butter metal. China scoot owners want to make them more dependable, not keep the status quo. This is the type of thing cheap mechanics would buy to rebuild your engine, and then tell you he used OEM parts. Sound good unless you know OEM is not so good.
You state in your post:
"Have had many people ask me over the years for kits and we finally were able to put them together"
It took me 10 minutes at the hardware store that sells certified fasteners to put most of this same kit together when I rebuilt a GY6.
GY6 is mainstream now. People know the issues. Chinese made fasteners are a big issue. This is not a good thing in my humble opinion.
Want to make some real $$. Do this same kit in certified fasteners...
Business opportunity there that brings dollars not cents.
Go with your own head, but do the right thing. doc
I'm going to chime in here for a minute. This is a good thing because it is another thing that a vendor is giving us to support the GY6. Yes the bolts are not high grade bolts, but if you properly torque the bolts and don't just go by feel 99% of the time there will be no issue. 98% of the hardware on the gy6 has really low torque specs required. Most people just get carried away and tighten it more because they don't think that it is tight enough. Once you start introducing stronger bolts into the picture bolt holes are going to be getting stripped out and personally I would rather extract a broken bolt than helicoil a hole. Walter thanks for continuing to support the scene.
This is a similar kit, but when you factor in shipping it comes out to $38+ or $40+ if you want UPS over USPS. The kit also does not include the keys and the alignment dowls that scooter elements kit does. It's all in the details :-)
Post by justin010304 on Aug 3, 2013 10:22:24 GMT -5
Some dirtbikes are air cooled but they are designed to be air cooled with more oil, and different tolerances. Not to mention most air cooled dirtbikes are not going to be held wide open most of the time like a common scooter.
Post by justin010304 on Aug 2, 2013 20:01:01 GMT -5
It varies depending on who you ask, but anywhere between .002" and .005". You can usually pick up a whole set for under $5 or if you work in a machine shop or somewhere just grab some feeler stock and use that.
Post by justin010304 on Aug 2, 2013 2:21:29 GMT -5
Almost done finally. The rear brake pads are wider on the old motor, the brake actuating rod that goes through the cases is longer and wont work. The motor shrouds are completely different and will not work. Like I have said before, if you get this motor don't mod it just buy another and build that one, it will save you a lot of head ache. I pretty much have a whole old motor in a box minus some hardware. This build went way over budget!
Even with the thicker gage wiring the starter doesn't want to start this motor. My battery may be weak, I'm going to throw a charger on it to see. It has been sitting for a few months now.
Also wanted to note that the front motor mount is not the same but I think it will work and the rear shock is too short. My scoot has low rider status right now. Then the big thing, my rear wheel will not work! The offset is way different than what I need for this motor. The tire hits the case and will not allow me to tighten the wheel. Sucks because I can't find any 13" wheels that will work. Looks like I'll be getting a 12" rear wheel for now.
Post by justin010304 on Aug 2, 2013 2:12:23 GMT -5
Posts like this bug me, and I'll explain why.
You are supposed to be posting about results of the 846 belt, which I would be curious to hear. But you didn't, you posted about how your change to sliders was. What you should have done was changed the belt and kept everything else the same to actually see the difference going from 842 to 846. Now you threw other variables into the mix and unless you go back you will not be able to provide a valid answer on how it worked.
Also, you said that the belt was noticably longer and easier to see the difference between the 846 and the 842, than it was the 842 and the 835. That is odd because the 842 is 7mm longer than the 835, and the 846 is only 4mm longer than the 842. So in theory the difference should be much more noticable in 7mm of change when you went to the 842 than this.
Throw the rollers back in so you can get a true reading on how much the 846 belt helped.
Post by justin010304 on Jul 31, 2013 15:55:22 GMT -5
Very true, a flow bench would be amazing to do some tests on these heads, but I don't have access to one. I don't think valve float is much of an issue till you start playing high lift cams or doing top speed runs down hill.
Some more things to think about, I wouldn't worry about a high output coil, the stock one produces enough for good even spark.
If you go with a big bore kit that bumps up your compression (most do) I'd advise against a "racing" cdi box as the added timing with high compression can cause detonation.
Post by justin010304 on Jul 31, 2013 13:46:38 GMT -5
Most of the heads you find are going to be made by the same factory. I would have no issue picking up that head, but of you put a cam in check to make sure the springs don't bind. It a common problem that people don't seem to know about. Also, port the heck out of that thing! I spent a couple hours porting mine, free HP! :-)