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Sparkles
by: justin010304 - Jul 31, 2013 2:20:58 GMT -5
Post by justin010304 on Jul 31, 2013 2:20:58 GMT -5
I ran 3 base gaskets to help with compression/ give clearance for the +2.2 crank.
The rocker arms are different on the 152qmi and will not work with the 157 head. The timing chain tensioner is also too deep to even fit in the hole for it, had to grab a 157qmj tensioner.
Motor is almost ready, engine wise it is together now, just need to throw in the transmission stuff today then mount it up.
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Post by justin010304 on Jul 31, 2013 2:09:34 GMT -5
FYI the first 1/2-3/4 gallon you pump is whatever the last guy used. It is left in the line, so chances are, most of the time you are actually using 87 and don't even know it. We have separate hoses for each grade. Lucky, we have the same hose for every grade. Except for one local station that has a seperate pump for sunoco 110 |
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Post by justin010304 on Jul 31, 2013 2:04:17 GMT -5
^Also, I didn't comment about jetting because there is no one size fits all for jetting. Not to mention you don't have a motor build set in stone yet. Buy a few different sizes and experiment.
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Post by justin010304 on Jul 31, 2013 2:01:26 GMT -5
If you plan on doing anything over an A8 cam I would get KSPower (fender cycle) valve springs, they are rated to 11k rpm's and are designed to take high lift cams without any binding. I built my motor with NCY head, springs and valves. Used taida retainers and NCY cam. The intake spring binds slightly. So basically there products don't even work together. It was binding worse with the stock retainers. Spend the extra and just get KS power's springs.
I would recommend replacing the starter clutch with a heavy duty starter clutch, but be aware you need to practically split the cases to do this. At that point why not just throw in some bored cases and run whatever you'd like?
A stroker crank will help with your TQ which will help run a taller final drive gear set and still get out of it's own way. Go mild with 2mm and you can just stack your base gaskets and go.
Porting of your head is where there is lots of power to be made, if you can't do it, have somebody else do it. Achi from area 808 and Nick at KS power do amazing work.
Run a new heavy 4 or 8 ga. wire to the starter from the battery, it will help turn the motor over with it's new found compression. Also change out the ground wire from the battery with a better wire.
If you are really dedicated about longevity, have your stuff coated at swain tech to keep internal temps down, spend the extra money for an oil cooler, and don't be affraid to buy quality stuff. I figure its not that expensive to throw a new cylinder, piston and rings at it every other year. I have to rebuild my dirtbike every other month and it costs way more then rebuilding this scooter.
Hopefully that helps you out a little with some ideas.
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Post by justin010304 on Jul 31, 2013 1:39:03 GMT -5
 Top right TAIDA 4 bolt valve cover Left stock 157qmj 4 bolt valve cover Bottom right 152qmi 2 bolt valve cover In my opinion the 152qmi valve cover has the best baffle in it, but the fact you can't throw it onto a regular 150 motor kills it. The Taida valve cover mimics the 152qmi valve cover and is a good choice over a catch can setup in most cases. The stock 157qmj valve cover is junk and the main reason why people have to run catch can setups. |
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Post by justin010304 on Jul 31, 2013 1:33:15 GMT -5
I'm so confused.....
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Post by justin010304 on Jul 30, 2013 3:53:55 GMT -5
FYI the first 1/2-3/4 gallon you pump is whatever the last guy used. It is left in the line, so chances are, most of the time you are actually using 87 and don't even know it.
My 125 got a gps verified 62 I think. It's in my sparkles build thread if you want to see it.
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Post by justin010304 on Jul 30, 2013 3:37:33 GMT -5
I have bought from aliexpress with no issues. I used the bearing splitter and pulled method when I did mine. Can't fully tighten the splitter, not enough room. Just snug it up, put some tension on the puller then wack it with a hammer and it should pop right off. To put it back on use a piece of pipe and a couple washers then tighten the nut on the crank to pull it on.
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Sparkles
by: justin010304 - Jul 30, 2013 3:26:43 GMT -5
Post by justin010304 on Jul 30, 2013 3:26:43 GMT -5
12 pole stator wiring comes together in a different place then 11 pole stators. The wiring has to be run under the stator to keep clear of the flywheel. The metal cover that goes over the wiring from the old motor does not work on the new motor either.
The cam chain guide needs a special shoulder bolt that has a groove for an oring in it to hold the guide in place and block the hole behind the variator.
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Post by justin010304 on Jul 21, 2013 13:51:31 GMT -5
Outer right side crank case, the dipstick case.
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Post by justin010304 on Jul 21, 2013 7:38:30 GMT -5
Whenever I buy on eBay that is exactly how it goes. But when I buy via stores it seems a little different, for example paid on monday the 15th, mailing date of the 17th, but accepted on the 18th. Still did make it to Maine by Saturday, which is fast.
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Post by justin010304 on Jul 21, 2013 7:17:35 GMT -5
Look at my sparkles build thread.
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Post by justin010304 on Jul 19, 2013 22:13:38 GMT -5
No comments?
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Post by justin010304 on Jul 18, 2013 18:06:20 GMT -5
Curious why shipping is always faster when items are purchased on eBay vs a store? Not just your store but most places are like this.
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Post by justin010304 on Jul 18, 2013 2:48:08 GMT -5
If you have too much compression it will lead to knocking. Knocking leads to blowing up motors. It doesn't take much to change compression in an engine, an extra gasket does help if you need to lower compression.
Some people also run extra base gaskets when they do a 2mm stroker crank rather than machine the piston. Usually 2 or 3 gaskets.
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