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Post by hillbillybob on Sept 10, 2015 16:37:59 GMT -5
Ahh.....Red Green....my hero.
I wish they would re-run that series.... I miss Opossum Lodge and the boys
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Post by hillbillybob on Sept 10, 2015 16:28:57 GMT -5
Well, I guess you have it figured out then. Stick with what the manual says.
I'm going to add this though......I bought my first bike in 1965, and since then I have had bikes made in Japan (2), England (1), Germany (3), plus the Chinese Scooter. All operated on conventional oil just fine, and my current fleet of 3 continue to do so. I have never suffered a lubrication caused failure, in any of them, or any of the countless other vehicles I've owned through the years. Cars, pickups, ATV's, Ag tractors, 18 wheelers....millions, and millions of miles.....not 1 oil related failure, and all were run with conventional oil in the pans.
And by the way rock73.....All the major manufacturer's 15w/40 oils here, carry the API SM certification, for gasoline powered engines. Maybe it's different where you are.
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Post by hillbillybob on Sept 9, 2015 16:34:19 GMT -5
Unless it is welded at that goofey angle.......it will go back to where it should be. You just haven't used quite enough persuasion yet.
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Post by hillbillybob on Sept 9, 2015 16:23:49 GMT -5
Well that settles it, now I know the newer one, is the one that's reading correctly. I have a cheap little tach on my scoot.....similar to the lower reading one you have. They have more than one setting, and yours is in the wrong one...that's why it reads 1/2 of actual rpm's. If you adjust it to the other setting, you'll see they both read the same.
2000 is a bit fast for an idle speed (unless the enricher is still on). My scooter is totally different, but has the same 1500 rpm idle spec, but will idle at 2000 or a little higher for a minute or two when starting a cold engine, then drops to 1500, maybe 1550 when enricher kicks off.
If yours is idling at 2000 when warm, and the throttle stop screw is backed all the way off, maybe you need to slacken up the throttle cable.
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Post by hillbillybob on Sept 9, 2015 12:02:44 GMT -5
I can't see why a 4T oil is necessary, if a wet clutch isn't involved. Any 20W/50 should be fine.....especially when you are changing it at a 600 mile interval. I use the same 1000 km, (620 mile) change frequency, and I won't even waste my money by using a synthetic. I don't leave it in long enough to make it cost effective. Dino oil....a heavy duty diesel variety, is good enough for me and my two wheelers.
In your climate, I would probably stick with a 20W/50.....but it would be a conventional one.
If synthetics are your thing......there are a number of brands offered in 15W/50....as well as 20W50. Either would be less expensive than the $10 to $11 dollars charged here for one quart of 4T oil.
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Post by hillbillybob on Sept 9, 2015 10:42:24 GMT -5
I may be wrong.....but, I think your new tach is the one with the correct reading. Don't know if I've ever heard of a scooter idling at 1000 rpm's......and it sure sounds to me as if it is turning faster than that.
Take it out on an open strech of road, and open it up. You'll soon know which one is right. If the new one goes to 14,000.. then I guess you are right.....But I bet it won't.
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Post by hillbillybob on Sept 6, 2015 5:49:45 GMT -5
If your 1/2" drive air gun won't remove a variator nut........then........(1) your air gun is no good, (2) it is not getting a proper air supply, (3) it is operating in the wrong direction, or (4) someone has put red loctite on the threads.
Have you thought about adding a little heat? How about a squirt of PB Blaster, or some other penetrating oil?
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Post by hillbillybob on Sept 3, 2015 7:11:46 GMT -5
I agree with the venting of the fuel tank, as a good place to start......no valves to adjust on his two stroke, so check, and make sure there is an operating tank vent.
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Post by hillbillybob on Sept 3, 2015 6:53:11 GMT -5
Limit the amount of time spent running at highway speeds.....lower rpm's, equal longer engine life.
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Post by hillbillybob on Sept 2, 2015 6:29:57 GMT -5
Why just a frame? Where ever you decide to settle, there are bound to be a bunch of scooters listed on Craigslist, that would have wheels, brakes, suspension, etc, etc. Non running units should be cheap.
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Post by hillbillybob on Aug 30, 2015 5:01:18 GMT -5
Original tires?  Those things must have morphed into granite or at least a nice schist ,,,get those damned things off of it before you wad a nice bike,,,please I second the motion.....don't bet your life on old tires. When I bought the 99 BMW, a couple of years ago, it had 5771 miles on the clock. I changed all of the fluids, adjusted valves, installed new plugs, checked and adjusted tire pressure, lots of tread left......so off we go. (Wifey on the back) A couple of weeks later, while washing the bike, I happened to notice the DOT date code on the tires. Had to look it up online to make sense of them, and discovered that both tires were produced in the summer of 1998. I parked the bike until the new Pirelli's arrived from Motorcycle Superstore. I should have noticed this when I brought the bike home, but failed to. I feel lucky to have gotten away with riding on 15 year old tires for a couple of weeks.....but I'm not a gambler, especially when the stakes might cost a life. |
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Post by hillbillybob on Aug 29, 2015 20:15:12 GMT -5
The wife and I recently took one of the beemer's out for a ride, and stopped at the Glenn H Curtiss Museum, in Hammondsport, NY. Talk about American ingenuity.......108 years ago, he built a V8 powered...shaft driven, motorcycle, that was clocked at 136.3 mph.....making him the fastest man on earth. He certainly must have had a pair, to take this machine to that speed. 1907 Curtiss V8 Motorcycle |
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Post by hillbillybob on Aug 29, 2015 19:38:15 GMT -5
Something doesn't sound right. An engine that is supposed to have 47 ounces of oil in it, is running fine with only one ounce......are you sure your drain is not plugged with something, and not letting it drain completely.....did it take the full 1.4 liters to refil to the top mark on the dipstick?
With only an ounce of oil in the crankcase, not a single part of your engine was receiving an lubrication......I don't see how it would have run more than a few minutes under those circumstances.
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Post by hillbillybob on Aug 29, 2015 5:53:16 GMT -5
I had the same concerns before purchasing my scoot three and a half years ago. At 5' 11" and 210 lbs, I didn't want to look like John Wayne riding a pony. I found the following video helpful.....and actually ended up buying from the people who produced it.
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Post by hillbillybob on Aug 28, 2015 7:00:15 GMT -5
I have to agree with dollar25, stick with a 250. My 150 is a great little scoot, but it is not designed for, or capable of sustained highway speeds. It may do it for a while, but won't hold together long. Mod one all you want....it still won't be a 250. There is no replacement, for displacement.
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