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Post by hillbillybob on Aug 25, 2015 6:30:18 GMT -5
Horace found your answer in the link he attached (post #6 above), and his explanation in post #7.
Go to the linked thread......drop down to reply #3....take a good look at the second picture that Alleyoop added.....that is what your scoot has
This has nothing to do with your gas tank or it's contents.....but is part of your crankcase ventilation system
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Post by hillbillybob on Aug 23, 2015 18:51:19 GMT -5
Since you spent as much time cleaning it as you said, I assume the inlet to the float needle was also done. If this inlet is clean, and the float and needle are working properly before installing the float bowl, then the float needs to be adjusted, or it's the wrong one for the carb. Does it seem to large for the bowl? Do you think it maybe it is touching the bottom, or some other part of the bowl, keeping it from dropping, and the neddle from opening?
Normally when this type of float fails, it's because of a crack or split seam, which allows it to fill and sink, thus flooding the engine. I've had old tractors that would occasionally have the float stick shut, a couple of taps on the bowl, with a wrench handle would usually get it to restart and back to the barn.....but I knew it needed a good cleaning, and maybe a carb kit.
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Post by hillbillybob on Aug 22, 2015 19:58:37 GMT -5
Ah, how sweet it is....the pleasure we derive from conquering a stubborn bolt, not to mention buying a new tool. I think most of us here, know the feeling. Keep on wrenching.
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Post by hillbillybob on Aug 22, 2015 17:59:13 GMT -5
To prevent this from happening to the new bolts, is using anti-sieze my best bet? onewheeldrive....I believe I have the same large phillips head screws holding my front fender on. I had mine off last week while installing new front shocks. Even though all were removed without a problem, I don't like phillips head screws, and can see how one located so close to the wheel, when exposed to the elements, could create a problem. The next time I'm in the hardware store, I'm going to pick up some hex head bolts and flat washers, and replace those screws. Won't want to torque them down too much....might crack the plastic fender. Will put a drop of Blue Loctite on each, and just snug them up good. When they need to be removed again, a 3/8 drive ratchet with a socket..... Or another option would be a stainless button head cap screw (allen bolt). Ebay has lots to choose from, 20 can be had for less than $10.00 |
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Post by hillbillybob on Aug 22, 2015 17:16:36 GMT -5
It hasn't hurt anything on my 150, and it always charges at 14.5 volts, according to the VDO volt meter that I installed years ago. The original battery lasted 2 years and 3 months......I replaced it a year ago this past June, with one that cost me $22.  , shipped to my door. I have put just 4,000 miles on the scooter since then. I have not replaced one bulb on it ever. Purchased it new in March 2012.....added a few LED's here and there, but have never burned out or blown any lights. |
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Post by hillbillybob on Aug 22, 2015 4:15:05 GMT -5
Have to agree with horace about the emissions system....get rid of it. Those of us in the know, complete that task as part of the PDI.
Now, about those hose clamps....If your hose is the proper size, and fits the nipple as it should, you can use the small plastic zip ties, in place of clamps. They will keep your hoses attached just fine.
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Post by hillbillybob on Aug 21, 2015 19:20:41 GMT -5
The only thing that can cause a rise in oil level, is gas getting by the carb, when engine is not running. (Air cooled engine)
If your yard is that unlevel, check the level when you are at the grocery store, or Walmart. If one of these places, is only a few miles away, your oil won't be anywhere near hot enough to make a big difference in level.
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Post by hillbillybob on Aug 21, 2015 7:26:05 GMT -5
There is a leason here, that others can benefit from......when replacing a carburetor, spend a few bucks more, and replace the fuel and vac lines too. A stitch in time......
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Post by hillbillybob on Aug 20, 2015 10:16:12 GMT -5
Auto enricher circuit unplugged.......fuel tank not properly vented.....
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Post by hillbillybob on Aug 19, 2015 19:45:26 GMT -5
Well retrorider, I almost did the same as you..change the shocks and install the new tire I have in the shop. The original front tire now has a little over 7,700 miles on it, and although it has plenty of tread left, it is feathering some, and I know it doesn't roll as smooth as it used to. I decided to hold off on replacing it until the end of this season, just so I would know how much difference the shocks would make.
Got a 33 mile ride in today, and can say I'm impressed. Much less vibration being transmitted to handle bars, windshield and such. Handling on sharp turns, such as intersections, is a lot more solid. Drives like a different scooter, I have less of that insecure feeling you get from a shakey front end.
I expect it to be even better next spring, when it rolls out of the garage with the new, higher profile, 110/90x12 Michelin City Grip installed.
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Post by hillbillybob on Aug 19, 2015 6:09:09 GMT -5
Tire plug kit might be worth carrying... That is something I recently added to my scooter's trunk.....one in saddlebags of both motorcycles too. After suffering 3 nail punctures in 2 years, I figured I'd better do something before I found myself 20 or more miles away, with a half deflated tire, and a nail sticking out of it. i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj622/rks3526/GOPR8498.jpg |
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Post by hillbillybob on Aug 18, 2015 20:38:22 GMT -5
After a little research, I followed rcq92130's lead, and installed a set of the Honda shocks on my Jonway, Milan style scooter. My research revealed that the original shocks are actually not a shock absorber at all, only a spring covered with plastic...with NO dampening effect at all. Now, it's not that they were worn out, but rather it's the way they are made, and come from the factory. Because of the weather, I only got a 3 mile test ride in today.....noticed a big difference just going across the lawn on my way from the barn door to the driveway. Actual shock absorbtion going on. Thanks rcq92130 for starting this thread......this is an upgrade that I can justify spending my money on.... " ![]() i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj622/rks3526/Front%20Suspension/f5aa12d4-70b9-4cf9-bf39-ec7a6bcc0bc5.jpg" |
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Post by hillbillybob on Aug 12, 2015 18:50:34 GMT -5
Welcome to the madness....
The banner ads that run at the top of each thread, are a good place to start looking for parts. As far as guides and such, check the Tech Files, located on the lower portion of this forum's home page.....there are also manuals there, for many Chinese scooters.
And then there is always you tube.....loaded with videos about anything, and everything.
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Post by hillbillybob on Aug 11, 2015 19:06:08 GMT -5
I have owned and ridden motorcycles since November of 1965. I have never bought, or used any "Motorcycle" specific oil. I have never experienced an oil related failure.
If you have a wet clutch, then you need something designed to be used in that application. If not, any quality motor oil will work just fine. Find any brand with the manual's specified weight, and use it.....in your case, a 5W/40. They can not void your warranty because you didn't use an oil with their name on the bottle.
Rotella T6 is a fine lubricant. If it will save you a couple of bucks, use it......you will not be hurt your ride.
Not a fan of synthetics myself....I don't leave oil in an engine long enough to warrant it's use, so I use a conventional 15W40 in all of my 2 wheelers. But if my manual called for a 5W40, I would not hesitate to use Rotella, Mobil, or any other, more readily available brand of synthetic.
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Post by hillbillybob on Aug 9, 2015 7:11:46 GMT -5
Lain....they are for anyone who wants to keep their engine, transmission, or differential, as debri free as possible. I run them in all of my vehicles.. (3 cars, 1 pickup, 2 motorcycles, 1 scooter, and 1 tractor). Some came from the factory with one installed, but others didn't.
They are NOT for extending your oil drain interval......after 600 miles of operation, just wipe your dipstick with your fingers, and then sniff them. A magnet won't help with combustion by products, nor will it work with non ferrous metals, which our scooter engines are full of. I certainly wouldn't suggest to anyone, that an oil screen be removed, just because you have a magnetic drain plug.
Even after break-in, there is wear going on in your engine.....if there wasn't, it would last forever. Some of us want to do whatever we can to slow this process down, quality oil, changed on a regular basis, a good air filter, a proper state of tune, and so on. Magnetic drain plugs will stop some of the abrasive material from continuing to circulate with the oil.....Gotta be a good thing.
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, shipped to my door. I have put just 4,000 miles on the scooter since then. I have not replaced one bulb on it ever. Purchased it new in March 2012.....added a few LED's here and there, but have never burned out or blown any lights.