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Post by onewheeldrive on Aug 19, 2015 20:59:13 GMT -5
I was in the process of removing my front fork today and of course there's always something. To do so I needed to get front nose fender off and I couldn't get any of the 4 bolts off securing the front nose fender to the fork.
Either I suck at using screw extractors or these bolts are in there and aren't going anywhere. Not surprised really as I don't recall ever removing either of the 4 in the 7+ years I've had this scoot, and since they aren't protected from the weather, well... there you have it. The metal is so soft on the bolt heads (phillips style). A bit rusty, too.
I guess I should try heating them? 1 is stripped and one is broken, haven't tried the other two yet. A bit worried about the plastics though-- the bolt(s) is literally surrounded by and on top of the plastic holding the fender down . I'll try again tonight, but not sure what else to do besides maybe take it to a shop to remove. I could also destroy the fender and order a new one and use new bolts on the new forks, but that doesn't seem very economical and I can't find a yellow one anyway.
Any thoughts?
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Post by lain on Aug 19, 2015 21:20:33 GMT -5
wd40, rubber mallet, extender rod for sockets, small screwdriver that can fit in the bolt hole, socket wrench, and vice grips...
Use the wd40 all over, get liberal. Carefully place the end of the xtender where you put sockets on, but do not put a socket on it, keep it steady and bang on the other end of the extender with the mallet. Try to remove the bolts now, if no go, try some more bangin, but be careful of it slipping, possibly use a rubber stopper to soften the blow a little and keep it in place... Still no go? Try placing the screwdriver in the ther side of the bolt hole touching the end of the bolt inside the hole and use the mallet, be careful not to mess up the threads then try again.
If no go still try clamping the vice grips on the head of the bolt (hope you have spares, this may ruin them!) and slowly turn the bolt. Make sure the vice grip is very tight or it will strip the bolt.
Still no go? well your fudged, get a drill and remove and rethread the holes...
Damaged them beyond repair? Get new forks, they can be painted, not the travelling parts of the forks, but the rest. New forks will make your ride feel nicer though, so if all else fails you'd at least enjoy a possibly smoother ride.
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Post by onewheeldrive on Aug 19, 2015 22:21:36 GMT -5
Thanks lain. I'll try those here in a bit. The head of these bolts are round and flat to begin with. I do have new forks.
I'll make sure I drill a better starter hole to do this next extraction attempt. I may just try and break the other three screw/bolt heads to release the fender, and just get new bolts. I don't care about the threads left in the fork holes because those forks are being replaced anyway-- I just don't have the bolts on hand and I doubt I will tomorrow unless I wake up early.
I just would rather get these out rather than break them so I can get this done and ride to work tomorrow-- safely. No big deal it would've been nice to get it done today and test out the new forks, but I can't always get what I want. Lol.
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Post by onewheeldrive on Aug 20, 2015 23:58:23 GMT -5
To prevent this from happening to the new bolts, is using anti-sieze my best bet?
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Post by lain on Aug 21, 2015 8:45:52 GMT -5
I've never had any problems with new bolts as long as you do not tighten them beyond torque they should be fine. I really think they use air tools at the factories to make things faster but in doing so make everything too tight.
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Post by hillbillybob on Aug 22, 2015 17:59:13 GMT -5
To prevent this from happening to the new bolts, is using anti-sieze my best bet? onewheeldrive....I believe I have the same large phillips head screws holding my front fender on. I had mine off last week while installing new front shocks. Even though all were removed without a problem, I don't like phillips head screws, and can see how one located so close to the wheel, when exposed to the elements, could create a problem. The next time I'm in the hardware store, I'm going to pick up some hex head bolts and flat washers, and replace those screws. Won't want to torque them down too much....might crack the plastic fender. Will put a drop of Blue Loctite on each, and just snug them up good. When they need to be removed again, a 3/8 drive ratchet with a socket..... Or another option would be a stainless button head cap screw (allen bolt). Ebay has lots to choose from, 20 can be had for less than $10.00 |
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Post by onewheeldrive on Aug 22, 2015 20:44:06 GMT -5
Hopefully I'll have it all done tomorrow on my day off--- bolts out and forks on.
I'd rather be in the sun doing it than my clustered garage anyway.
Those phillip screw heads suck in that location. I knew they were going to be a pain. I'd have no problem getting them out with a socket if they were that style. Oh well. Lol.
I think I'll take the hex/washer route myself hillbillybob.
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Post by scooter on Aug 23, 2015 3:41:56 GMT -5
Hopefully I'll have it all done tomorrow on my day off--- bolts out and forks on. I'd rather be in the sun doing it than my clustered garage anyway. Those phillip screw heads suck in that location. I knew they were going to be a pain. I'd have no problem getting them out with a socket if they were that style. Oh well. Lol. I think I'll take the hex/washer route myself hillbillybob. Obviously I have no idea what you are working on, but you might find a socket with a phillips head on it, and perhaps a universal joint if it's in a tight space, helpful. Using an impact wrench may help to avoid stripping heads if that's an issue. |
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Post by lain on Aug 23, 2015 9:02:02 GMT -5
Hopefully I'll have it all done tomorrow on my day off--- bolts out and forks on. I'd rather be in the sun doing it than my clustered garage anyway. Those phillip screw heads suck in that location. I knew they were going to be a pain. I'd have no problem getting them out with a socket if they were that style. Oh well. Lol. I think I'll take the hex/washer route myself hillbillybob. Oh I didn't realize we were talking about the phillips head screws on the fender, yeah those royally are a pain and are usually rusted and hard to remove on any bike when you go to remove them. I personally just unscrew them with vice grips by really gripping the head with the vice grips so much that it digs it's teeth into the head. Remove the screw, clean the hole with wd40 rust remover and some soap and warm water, finish with regular wd40 or the same rust remover you used to prevent rust. Spray the hole with antiseize or something (I use graphite lube, it is dry lube and wipes off easy with a wet rag) screw in a new bolt, a hex top bolt for sure not a silly phillips head, and enjoy your work. If in a bind and want to remove the bolt before going to the store, zipties hold the fender on well for short trips, especially since the fender already connects to the axel rod. |
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Post by onewheeldrive on Aug 23, 2015 17:35:29 GMT -5
I just broke the tip off one of the bigger extractors trying to get one of the 4 bolts off. Here's a pic of it:
Ill post it later
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Post by onewheeldrive on Aug 23, 2015 17:59:26 GMT -5
Just drilled them out. Glad thats over-- should've done that a few days ago. Lol.
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Post by onewheeldrive on Aug 25, 2015 23:30:14 GMT -5
Not going to post the pic of the extractor, it's not hard to visualize a broken tip (unless someone wants to see it).
Anyway, all I did was drill into the bolts and used the extractors to twist and break the heads off of each remaining bolt. I picked up some new hex bolts and washers to secure the fender to the new front fork.
Overall the ride is smoother for sure. I'm glad it's done and over with.
Now I just have to tackle the dash panels and one of the panels on the side of the floorboard. Fun fun fun!
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