Been riding for almost 5 weeks straight. Knew i had more work to do but kept putting it off. It is time now and I could use a little help.
First the fuel float thingy disintegrated. Took a long time to get it out as it just kept breaking apart. Electronics still work. Is it possible to just order the float or do i need to order the whole sending unit?
Next is the vacuum petcock. I'd prefer to get rid of it alltogether as i have a manual one ready to install. Didn't someone figure out how to do that? If not i guess i would like to order the entire assembly. Looks like crap taken apart. I also already have a fuel filter to install so don't mind getting rid of this.
Decided to just replace the broken bits. It was hard keeping my order to a bare minimum with all the cool stuff scrappy has. So fuel level gauge and vacuum petcock ordered. Would have liked to just have a nipple on the tank for a hose, maybe next time.
*Carb is no problem to clean, probably just has a clogged jet.
Grrr... Decided to finally replace the hoses since it's all taken apart. Of course there are 3 different sizes and I only have 2. Bought 3 different size clamps over the last few months and NONE of them are the correct size. Now I have to go and do research to decide if I really want to remove all the emissions stuff. I am NOT going to change the carb nor "tune" it, so maybe i shouldn't mess with any of the other stuff?
Post by hillbillybob on Aug 22, 2015 4:15:05 GMT -5
Have to agree with horace about the emissions system....get rid of it. Those of us in the know, complete that task as part of the PDI.
Now, about those hose clamps....If your hose is the proper size, and fits the nipple as it should, you can use the small plastic zip ties, in place of clamps. They will keep your hoses attached just fine.
2011 Jonway 150cc......16,324 miles & counting
My other rides are: 1999 BMW, R1200C..(Dooley) 2000 BMW, R1200C..(Schultz) 2006 Ural Troyka..(Boris)
Yes it was the fuel level indicator. No idea what I said before..lol. Received the wrong part but the correct one should be here tomorrow. Hose clamps, yep using zipties. Amazon recommended some nice looking clamps to go with the fuel line...wrong size. Then I bought some smaller ones because I liked the design. Turned out to be too small. This is a low budget project scoot that I would like to ride for about a year then sell. It's nothing I really want to keep so don't want to put any money into it that I don't have to.
That's exactly what happened to my fuel float. It was broken and disintegrated.
63mm bbk 61mm head with roller rockers Taida clutch and varistor 15 gram rollers High flow oil pump Taida high torque starter 18:36 final drive gears Oil cooler with oil temp gauge 30mm flatside carb 125 main jet So far 81mph on the interstate
Got it all put back together. Put 5 panels of plastics on before I realized I had forgotten to hook up all the rear lights. As I'm hooking up the lights i GUESSED which was left and right. Still haven't checked to see if i'm right but I had a % chance of being correct. Frustrated with the hoses for sure. Sucks when you have to use 2 zip ties to make sure the fuel does not leak. Replaced 2 air hoses and actually had to melt the end to get it pliable enough to slip over the connector. I'm actually a tiny bit embarrassed that when I went to put the seat back on the charcoal canister was in the way. Spent more time messing with that than anything else. There is a good chance I will remove it next time I have to take the seat off and get in there.
EDit- O' and how stupid is the fuel float that reads 1/4 tank when it's about 3/4. Pretty useless. Both my scoots do this.
*There have been a few PDI posts but one stands out. Guy actually supplied links to where/which hoses and stuff to buy. Wish i could find that.
If in doubt, eliminate all that is not necessary. I personally do not have a single vacuum line, I have eliminated everything and replaced a few things to make things much simpler and work more efficiently. I took out all the environmental crud, replaced the vacuum fuel petcock with a manual one, replaced the carb with a keihin that does not need vacuum line, replaced the old box air filter with a UNI filter... It is much simpler, only hose I have is for the fuel to go to the inline fuel filter and to the carb, and one hose from the valve cover of the engine to the rear.
Remove the fuel sensor unit and move it up and down to check to make sure it CAN read the full range. If it can it is most likely a tad too tight where the floater lever connects to the unit, or it is sticky. If it does not read the full range then replace it, or just check visually when you think you may be low.