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Post by dmartin95 on May 17, 2015 1:59:39 GMT -5
You use both. Remove your exhaust pipe and you'll immediately see what KieKara and Geh is talking about. by "use both" do you mean either or, or both together? or are you talking about the NCY or the stock one?... You use both... The little donut ring and the NCY or stock Flange Gasket. On your exhaust port of the head, there's a circular indentation where the donut ring will sit, the NCY gasket goes on over that, then the exhaust over that.
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Post by dmartin95 on May 15, 2015 22:14:37 GMT -5
Thanks in advance..... In my BB kit I got two different exhaust gaskets... one copper ring and one sandwich style metal and paper ring.... which one is the correct/best one to use? standard gy6 139qmb - Mahalo You use both. Remove your exhaust pipe and you'll immediately see what KieKara and Geh is talking about.
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Post by dmartin95 on May 15, 2015 21:13:25 GMT -5
How bout just installing a 100cc kit? Wouldn't that essentially replace any potential issue? Yes and no.... When you install a BBK, you also have to mod your carb (upjet), free flow air and possibly exhaust.... But yes, if the problem is coming from somewhere within the compression chamber, a BBK would fix the problem. But if you don't do the other mods, you can create more problems..... For example... You put a BBK and run stock carb, you'll lean out your motor and over heat it, causing it to seize up.....
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Post by dmartin95 on May 15, 2015 21:07:54 GMT -5
Looking good so far!
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Post by dmartin95 on May 15, 2015 21:03:02 GMT -5
kitteh666 - I also advise using the blue. I don't disagree , I'm just stumped how easy I can take off all the nuts and bolts I use the red loctite on ? Then again I use either the electric 8 amp impact or the 19.2 volt 1/4 inch impact to take all the nuts and bolts off , and they come off or out like there was no loctite on at all. Hi geh333, my post just happened to be under yours, I was replying to the OP, adding my 2 cents, not disagreeing with you..... *Note, The thread locker color is academic for this discussion anyways... I too think they may have installed the flywheel without the woodruff key in its slot.
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Post by dmartin95 on May 15, 2015 20:58:19 GMT -5
I'd say less than 1/8" on the dip stick, if any. It doesn't really smoke at all when this happens. Any smoke that I have seen was due to oil making its way onto the exhaust. I advise you to get a compression tester and check that first... Excessive blow-by can be caused from your piston rings. You may need to hone the cylinder and install a new set of rings... You may also want to consider checking your valve clearances.
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Post by dmartin95 on May 15, 2015 20:48:38 GMT -5
I use the proper gasket and some sort of sealant if required... For most of the block, I use copper gasket spray and for something like the valve cover If I add any sealant, it would be high temp silicone.
I hate gasket maker. I would only use it, as an absolute last resort. A valve cover gasket cost under a buck and most of the time doesn't require any sealant.
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Post by dmartin95 on May 15, 2015 15:22:51 GMT -5
kitteh666 - I also advise using the blue.
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Post by dmartin95 on May 15, 2015 8:08:56 GMT -5
Apparently that's the exact factory procedure, so at least you've got that? they just have the luxury of hitting those threads the first time so they don't come apart! did you end up having to replace the crank? Yeah, I had to replace the crank. Luckily I had a spare crank on hand and it didn't stop my build but to say I was shocked is an understatement... This was my first time building a GY6 engine, but I've had my tools on everything from lawn mower engine to a Z28 with a Vortec supercharger.... This was a first... Normally the crank is the hardest metal... Forged steel... But it was the crank that stripped, not the nut... O'well, we live, we learn... The crank probably is still usable, just have to re-thread it with the next size down...
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Post by dmartin95 on May 13, 2015 11:55:18 GMT -5
:)Thanks....
It was so late at night I'm surprised I got out any coherent words in that video....
This motor was quite a challenge.
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Post by dmartin95 on May 12, 2015 18:33:54 GMT -5
The other night I finished my first 4 valve conversion. I recorded the whole process but am not done with editing yet. I will add the videos in the coming days... The kit I purchased was a Taiwan kit, but not the Taida kit. I also own the Taida 4 valve which is a higher quality and comes with all the right stuff, unlike this kit... For those who clicked the link you will see it comes with 4, 213mm cylinder stud screws, but only 2 are the right size. You will also need 2, 218mm studs. I acquired them from a Taida 218/225 kit. In addition, you will need to increase the chain to a 46 (aka 92) link chain. The other upgrades Consisted of a 58.5mm BBK bringing it up to a 155cc, installed an 11 pole stator, Hoca Premium Gasket set and this Taiwan CVT set. I fired her up and after finding the right Jet setup (#35 and #108 in Keihin PD24J) she runs smooth as butter and in my first test runs I hit 58MPH and was only at 6000RPM's with plenty left to go... I can't really get into her until shes gets broke in. The components were around $300 with another $25.00 in gaskets and various other materials. It's one of an upgrade without having to cut the case.... Here's some pics: And here's a video of me starting her up:
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Post by dmartin95 on May 11, 2015 15:11:35 GMT -5
I successfully converted a GY6 150 into a 155cc with a 4 valve head.
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Post by dmartin95 on May 10, 2015 2:36:20 GMT -5
Anyone who wants to make a video and record an accurate speed , this is the best app ever. It is a speed camera app . Good find!
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Post by dmartin95 on May 8, 2015 16:17:42 GMT -5
recently I got an DC voltage regulator and a DC stator. unfortunately I have a white wire on my DC regulator but no white wire on the stator. any idea where I need to hook the white wire from the voltage regulator? The white wire feeds your auto enricher and whatever else was on that circuit. It's an AC output. I am unsure of the AC output voltage or if it's regulated. However, I'm 99.9999% sure it's an A/C output for your auto enricher circuit.
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Post by dmartin95 on May 7, 2015 12:43:53 GMT -5
I relocated and reoriented the hitch to take the hitch off the scooter axle, moved the wheel all the way back and lowered the box as low as I could at the wheel which improved towing a lot. How 'bout some more pictures? Up close shots of your hitch would awesome! On a side note, I can't believe how much your TMAX looks like my SMAX.
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