|
|
Post by dmartin95 on May 7, 2015 2:34:14 GMT -5
Hello right back at ya from Michigan, welcome to the forum!  These little 150's are so nimble and relatively quick they are an absolute blast to drive. Hope ya have many fun miles! Peace! |
|
|
|
Post by dmartin95 on May 7, 2015 2:29:03 GMT -5
That's one sharp scoot ya got there!
Mind sharing how much you paid for it?
|
|
|
|
Post by dmartin95 on May 5, 2015 16:37:28 GMT -5
What would be the advantages of removing egr and pair if I am keeping stock exhaust for now ?? In short, it boils do to reliability. You will get absolutely zero performance gains. The reason people remove the emissions crap is because it's stuff that can break down and leave you stranded. Your scooter doesn't need it to operate, it's only to satisfy the EPA and DOT requirements. Removing it gives you a more reliable scooter. Same thing with the vacuum operated petcock. People replace it with a manual to eliminate the possibility of being stranded. |
|
|
|
Post by dmartin95 on May 5, 2015 13:54:41 GMT -5
Very cool!
|
|
|
|
Post by dmartin95 on May 5, 2015 13:51:03 GMT -5
Man, that is crappy... I hope your stuff is recovered.
|
|
|
|
Headlights
by: dmartin95 - May 3, 2015 21:34:59 GMT -5
Post by dmartin95 on May 3, 2015 21:34:59 GMT -5
I have a new Taotao quantum 150 and would love to brighten up the headlights !!! Halogen  Help needed !! One my scooters is also a TaoTao Quantum tour. I would be very careful going with larger (higher watts - not physical size) bulbs. It's a relatively small bezel for the two halogens that's already in there... I would be worried about melting the Bezel. If you're going to add lighting, I suggest adding supplemental lighting. Add a light bar or something.... Anyhow, you wanted a link so I'll provide one... But if you do get these two halogen bulbs, I suggest paying real close attention and making sure you don't melt your bezel. This links to partsforscooters.com They are an awesome place to purchase scooter parts. That link is for a 35 watt Halogen in either white or blue One of the members of this board (TVNACMAN) has a scooter parts store and I'm pretty sure he stocks these head lamp/bulbs as well. *EDIT Didn't add the link.... Here ya go: 35/35 Halogen |
|
|
|
Post by dmartin95 on May 1, 2015 20:42:55 GMT -5
What I did was slide the magnetic flywheel on the other side with the woodruff key in place to keep it from turning, held that still with a device ebay describes as a "FlyWheel Clutch Hub Rotor Sprockets Spanner Wrench Holder Adjustable Tool" which prevented the crank from turning, then installed the spacer and variator and cranked down on that nut. I was communicating with a gy6 guru who said that most of them are assembled with impact guns and are extremely over-torqued from the factory, which is why they are difficult to remove, but they don't need that much to stay. Since mine was mostly a spacer I just tightened it up and it worked perfectly. The reason I was asking about this is I majorly F'd up..... I thought the kick starter gear had to be pressed on. What I did was put the gear on the crank, then used the boss and a large bolt as a shim to come up past the splines about 3~4mm.. I then got the original nut and put it on the threads... Got a breaker bar on the other side of the crank to hold it in place... Hit the variator side (the variator was not installed for this) with the impact... I hit it too much apparently and stripped the crankshaft thread ends right out... The real kick in nads? In the process I got gear so tight, when I went to remove the kick starter gear, I had to break out the gear puller. |
|
|
|
Post by dmartin95 on May 1, 2015 20:33:15 GMT -5
Do you have the 842 or 835 belt?
|
|
|
|
Post by dmartin95 on May 1, 2015 20:22:19 GMT -5
What I did was slide the magnetic flywheel on the other side with the woodruff key in place to keep it from turning, held that still with a device ebay describes as a "FlyWheel Clutch Hub Rotor Sprockets Spanner Wrench Holder Adjustable Tool" which prevented the crank from turning, then installed the spacer and variator and cranked down on that nut. I was communicating with a gy6 guru who said that most of them are assembled with impact guns and are extremely over-torqued from the factory, which is why they are difficult to remove, but they don't need that much to stay. Since mine was mostly a spacer I just tightened it up and it worked perfectly. Thanks Brother! That was exactly the type of info I was looking for. Have a bone on me! |
|
|
|
Post by dmartin95 on Apr 30, 2015 23:49:01 GMT -5
dmartin- hello and thanks for appreciating that lol. I never thought it would take so much effort, but once you get so far... why stop now?! as for the kick start gear, I didn't. the mechanism was all jacked up and I didn't feel like kick start was worth it when it takes so much effort to start anyway. the starter has been through trying to start this thing with the timing off, so bad it melted the filter a little. I figure I'll just keep a really close eye on the starter lol Thanks for the reply.... I'm talking about the actual kick starter gear... It's behind your boss and variator.... Not the actual kick start lever and large kick starter gears.... Sorry if I wasn't specific... (I'm talking about the little gear on the crankshaft)  |
|
|
|
Post by dmartin95 on Apr 30, 2015 20:46:49 GMT -5
I have a 2007 Honda elite ch80. For some reason when I am going down the road if I hit a bump my engine looses power briefly. It really has me puzzled, I have checked all my wires they are tight with no bare ones. I swapped out my coil thinking maybe the end was bad, I have taken the carb off disassembled it and cleaned it and nothing has made a difference. I also checked the fuel line for kinks. If I sit on my scoot and have the engine running and bounce on it the engine doesn't cut out, if I go over a railroad track or hit a bump while moving it cuts out. Any suggestions Godfella..... Your problem is likely electrical. I know you said you checked the wires, however I suggest you - CHECK AGAIN. A while back I had a scoot exhibiting the same exact symptoms... I pulled the faring off and got to my harness... After CLOSE inspection, I discovered the yellow w/black stripe wire and green ground that run from the CDI to coil had been sandwiched in between the frame and body panels. Whenever I hit a bump, it would arc the two wires together and kill the scooter. I'm not saying this exact malfunction is your problem, but I would wager money it's something similar. My guess is it is electrical related and you're wasting time looking for fuel and air leaks... |
|
|
|
Post by dmartin95 on Apr 30, 2015 19:51:57 GMT -5
Naturally, with no small engine or motorcycle experience whatsoever, I decided I could get it running  That's good stuff right there. ---------------- I do have one question for ya... What did you do to press the kickstarter gear back on? |
|
|
|
Post by dmartin95 on Apr 30, 2015 19:35:36 GMT -5
It didn't save what I said , anyway, I checked they were not bad, however is missing the gasket for the fill bowl, I sent them another email letting them know I am not happy, if this carb doesn't work I am telling them to refund me or I will dispute the charges with the C.C. that was used. They seemed pretty reasonable to me... At first they offered replacement but I demanded cash value of the carburetor... However, I would have let them send me a carburetor if I thought I wouldv'e got a new one... See, if you check their store on ebay, they have 1000's of items listed, but only 2 GY6 items... Long and short case complete engines... No parts, no accessories, just the two engines... SO I figured if they were going to ship me some carburetors, it would be either ones that have already been sent back and they (TMS) cleaned, or they just would get them out of another new engine box, hence sending me another crappy carburetor... |
|
|
|
Post by dmartin95 on Apr 30, 2015 16:28:27 GMT -5
So just got the box opened the carb is just as dirty as the original one. Hopefully it will work, will find out after work. Uggg... That sucks... Make sure you open it up and clean out the jets, or inspect them at least... |
|
|
|
Post by dmartin95 on Apr 30, 2015 15:58:41 GMT -5
Listen....
Everybody that is taking part this thread... These things are a bad idea. I've researched the heck out of these things and instead of helping cool the oil, they can lead to hot spots and make changing your oil about 100 x times more difficult.
Inside your engine you have channels that route the flow of oil... You disrupt that flow with one of these...
My opinion, stay away from these things. They are gimmicky, nothing more and you will regret your decision in the long run... Plus, I advise you to do searches for old threads.. There's plenty of people that has tried this gadget and were unhappy with the results.
Geh is right, Taida sells both, 54 and 57mm r side crankcase's... In addition, the GY6 store sells them for much cheaper. If you're wanting an oil cooler, get a crankcase and do it the right way.
|
|
