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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 30, 2015 11:00:57 GMT -5
Well its a variable resistor to calibrate or tweak one of the functions,I bet its for tweaking the RPM.If you have a small engine shop near you with a good clip on gauge you could calibrate your new one to it is my guess. Oh ok i see, but for everyday use I can just let it hang I don't really need it hooked up to anything? A lot of Tachometer have a selector switch which allows you to select between the amount of cylinders. |
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 29, 2015 16:56:01 GMT -5
Hi Bulldog,
While I can't help you identify what piston you have, I have a suggestion on how to find out... Go to the place you purchased it from and search their inventory... I would wager they don't too many 66mm pistons listed in their stock list....
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 29, 2015 16:47:18 GMT -5
Actually they WILL work. I clicked the link and checked the description. The 5mm was the head size. Yes, they will work with your carburetor. For the 18~30mm CVK carbs that these scoots have, ranging from 50~250, all use what's called, "Keihin Style" of jets. PD18 PD24 PD30 All use "Keihin Jets". I too like that the manufacturer listed the specs with such a detailed diagram... I purchased in bulk from the seller for 125/250 Keihn jets. I purchased from a different seller now that I stop and think about it... But it's the same kits... The stores look the same. |
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 29, 2015 11:09:05 GMT -5
I ordered 2 jets from jetsrus. I'm not planning anything major so I should be good for now. Only one of the two jets I ordered is in the Naraku kit so it's no big deal. The Naraku kit doesn't have any odd numbers. Hi Onewheeldrive, I found the jet set you're looking for but it's in China. I think it's the best deal you'll find and now that you already ordered a couple of jets, you have a little time to wait for that slow boat from China.. Here's the LINK(7 pcs/pack) GY6 50cc Carburetor Carb Keihin 5mm main jet #87 #  #  #92 #94 #96 #98 for 139QMB Scooter ---- Best part is the price.. $4.74 and free S&H.... if you order 2 sets, they're only $4.24 per set.  |
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 29, 2015 0:56:26 GMT -5
Being a bike mechanic I'm messing with chains constantly, its actually very easy, all you really have to do is see which is a male link and which is female and break it in the appropriate spot. (Male link has a pin that you push into a female link) the biggest mistake you can make is pushing the pin out too far or even worse all the way out if you decide to break the chain take it very slowly and keep seeing if you can pull it apart because once you go too far it's alot more work to get it back together Also once you get the chain back together you might notice the pin that you just pushed back in will feel stuck and not as movable as all the other links. Put the breaker on the other side of that same pin and give it just a little push back out sometimes the pins need to be wiggled a bit to loosen them back up once putting them back together Thanks for the feedback... I decided not to break the chain.... I split apart the crank halves and opened her up..... I didn't want to take the risk of creating a "weak link in the chain"... Had it been a drive chain (going from motor to rear tire) I may have considered it more seriously, but with it being part of the internals I figured it was not worth the risk, when I could buy a chain and gasket set for under $25.00 to the door. |
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 28, 2015 22:14:10 GMT -5
Ok, I get that you don't like walmart but I still don't get why you wouldn't order from them... Like RCQ said, it's your best price and guaranteed the real deal.... Boycott if you want, but to me it seems like your cutting off your nose, to spite your face..... |
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 28, 2015 21:05:16 GMT -5
It's correct then.
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 28, 2015 18:36:22 GMT -5
Good price. Worth trying. I just ordered one, and will update once arrived. I wish I would've saw this thread sooner... A while back I purchased a whole handful of these gizmo's.... They're about as accurate as a blind man with a bow and arrow.... |
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 28, 2015 18:25:23 GMT -5
Yes, you're correct.... You have a pickup coil that goes over top of your flywheel, that flywheel has a big magnet on the top, everytime that passes the pickup, it fires,,,... However, It fires to the CDI... From there, the CDI only produces 1 pules per RPM... That's why if you hook up a tachometer, you have to connect to your pulse signal coming out from your CDI and not the pickup coming in..... Do you think my reading correct now with the way I have it set up? You never said how you hooked it up, but if your numbers are around 1500~2000 rpm idle and 7~8000 RPM at WOT I'd say yes... Those are the numbers you should be at. |
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 28, 2015 15:52:29 GMT -5
geh3333, I took a video but I am not on wifi right now and I cannot upload it, but I will as soon as I can. Anyway Played with the settings and the best one was 1 spark per Revolution even though according to the instruction for 4 cycle one cylinder it should be 1 spark 2 revs but my scoot did not like that setting as it stated it was idling @ 4k rpm.. :-) went for a quick spin to check RPM and I am a bit disappointed that RPM seemed to be perfect... I was hoping to be able to lower roller weights a bit but I am not sure it is possible.... On take off I was just @7k RPM and then RPM would stay at around 6500 RPM all the way up to 55MPH and then peak about 7200 RPM at 60 MPH. I am on 12 Grams Rollers, wanted to try perhaps 11 Grams DR pulley sliders but I think I would reving to high... Opinions? those are not GPS speeds... so take that with a grain on salt.. MPH are a bit off. Thank you I think the GY6 sparks every revolution, even though the actual combustion only happens every other revolution. Yes, you're correct.... You have a pickup coil that goes over top of your flywheel, that flywheel has a big magnet on the top, everytime that passes the pickup, it fires,,,... However, It fires to the CDI... From there, the CDI only produces 1 pulse, per 2 revolutions.... That's why if you hook up a tachometer, you have to connect to your pulse signal coming out from your CDI and not the pickup coming in..... |
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 28, 2015 15:47:00 GMT -5
This video I only published now so you could see the tear down and what's on the inside of these engines... It was not ready to be published as it is part of a video series I'm doing on how to convert to 4 valve and install a BBK.... I'm not promoting it yet, but no harm sharing it in this thread... I mentioned you all a couple times, couldn't think of what to call you so I chose buddy! I figured it was better than "some guy on the forum" LOL  |
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 28, 2015 15:17:18 GMT -5
I bought a RPM gauge from eBay to help me do adjustments and general maintenance on the scoot. Just don't know where to wire it up exactly! Haha Here's the gauge:    Anybody ever used this gauge? You are going to have one wire hooked up to fuel circuit signal,.. The fuel sender acts kind of like a potentiometer, as to where your tach is going send a pulse signal..... DONT GET THEM SWITCHED BACKWARDS. The two will share the same ground and switched power source... That all 4 wires.... But...... Problem is, without a wiring diagram, I can not tell you what wire is what.... If you produce a wiring diagram I can tell you how to install it no problem...... If I were to guess without a wiring Diagram, I would do it like this: Red - Switched 12V + Black - Ground Green - Tach inmput (locate the black and yellow wire at your coil to CDI) Yellow - Fuel sender unit.... Take note, Your stock fuel sender will have 3 wires, but your new gauge will get it's own ground and power from the shared tachometer power and ground source. So, you will have wires that now no longer go to anything... Cap off unused wires. Your gauge is not for oil, it's for gas. |
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 28, 2015 15:05:31 GMT -5
Quick update on my situation... They offered to refund me what amounted to $33.33 per carburetor. I considered it a fair amount... You can get a brand new quality PD24J for that amount....
A friend of the family wants me to install a new engine on their sons broken scooter for his birthday... All my Keihins are spoken for already so I'm glad TMS decided to honor the post sale... I would have of had to come out of pocket and jack the cost up and they don't have much money in first place.... I'm doing the work for free, just the cost of the engine.
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 27, 2015 17:51:55 GMT -5
Have you checked around your area for belt, bearing and chain shops? Might be fairly reasonable to just have them cut what you need.. I would rather, attempt to chew through the block of this motor, than have someone do my work for me.  I'm just joking.... At this point it isn't about if I can do it, it's about if I should do it. The advice I got from those in the know is to not do it. |
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 27, 2015 17:42:25 GMT -5
Still waiting to see if they answer my e-mail, as of right now I would not suggest using TMS if you are needing everything, if just the motor is all you need and have the carb, and other electronics they do seem to be the cheapest however starting to see why, dmartin95 has bought 3 long case and 1 short case from them and recently pulled the carbs apart after my issue and noticed that all the carbs are gummed up. TMS responded to me... They want pictures... So I snapped some shots... Here gang, check these out,... They tried to sell these to us as new.... (BTW, did you get your carb cleaned and get to go for a test ride)    |
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#92 #94 #96 #98 for 139QMB Scooter ---- Best part is the price.. $4.74 and free S&H.... if you order 2 sets, they're only $4.24 per set.
