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Post by skuttadawg on Aug 26, 2013 16:15:00 GMT -5
EFI is better in every aspect , reliability , performance and MPG . Maybe it is the illusion with the 10 inch wheels on the VIP that make it feel faster since the Aprilias have larger 13s they are way more stable ,
Matt I poked around there did not see a EFI to carb thread
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Still Slow
by: skuttadawg - Aug 26, 2013 16:08:56 GMT -5
Post by skuttadawg on Aug 26, 2013 16:08:56 GMT -5
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Post by skuttadawg on Aug 24, 2013 17:22:54 GMT -5
Why in the world would you remove EFI for a carb ? Hope you didnt put a China piston kit on an Italian scoot . VIP oputrun the Aprilia  ???javascript:%20addSmiley("%20:-/") |
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Post by skuttadawg on Aug 24, 2013 1:45:12 GMT -5
No way that is possible . Even a modded 2T would have to have a racing engine to get ultra high RPMs . I think he is reading KPH instead of MPH
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CDI?
by: skuttadawg - Aug 24, 2013 1:43:05 GMT -5
Post by skuttadawg on Aug 24, 2013 1:43:05 GMT -5
If the stock CDI has a RPM limiter then a CDI without one will yield more RPMs . A brand name CDI is often of better quality than a stock generic one even if it has no gain it may last longer
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Post by skuttadawg on Aug 24, 2013 1:26:02 GMT -5
First off how many miles are on it ? The pink wire is only for Adley scooters not the common Chinese scoots . The 50s have too small of a main jet to get all of the power out of the engine so we ether install a larger main jet or replace the carb since most have the air/fuel screw covered , no needle clip to adjust its position and I have seen some where the carb bowl is riveted on instead of using screws . How does it run ? Have you done a compression test ? Is the belt stretched out ? Remove the variator weights and weigh them with a digital scale . You can try lighter rollers or sliders which will help on take off , up hill and often top end . Too light and top end will be less since the engine will be redlining at a slower speed . Check and clean the airfilter , as a dirty one will restrict the intake air flow . Make sure the vacuum hoses are all attached . I had a small one pop off on my old 50 and man it really killed the performance . I put on a screw clamp since the factory snap clap came off . Seafoam is a great product that can clean out the fuel system if dirty and also keep it clean . The best way to clean the carb is to remove the bowl and unscrew the idle and main jet to clean with carb cleaner spray or stiff solid strand wire . Im a lucky I can do this with out having to remove the carb . Note look for the drain plug screw on the bottom to release the gas in the bowl before taking it off . Check the intake manifold for cracks or holes since many use a Teflon intake that rots over time . If the valves have not been adjusted it may need them to be done . Plenty of how to videos on adjusting the valves and more on YouTube . The engine must be cold and you will need a valve feeler gauge that has a bend end or bend a flat blade type . Most auto parts stores sell them for 3 bucks . All 4T scooters will need to have this done at least once and my scooter dealer told me many need to be adjusted out of the crate . Harbor Freight has and engine compression gauge kit for 20 dollars which can be handy to have . Here is a great article on derestricting a scooter www.scootnfast.com/scooter/Tuning_mods/De-Restricting.htmSome older scoots have a RPM limited CDI but often they are not limited on some scoots . An aftermarket racing CDI is a 50/50 gamble as many reported no top end gain . Some performance CDIs have an advanced timing curve which can help on the low end . There is at least 4 carbs on the 139QMB engine like listed here www.partsforscooters.com/Street-Scooter-Carburetors-and-Parts . Look up engine and CVT parts for 139QMB ( very common engine used ) instead by your scooters brand or model |
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Post by skuttadawg on Aug 22, 2013 22:31:08 GMT -5
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Post by skuttadawg on Aug 22, 2013 22:29:12 GMT -5
Could be a loose nut or a warped rotor . If you want to replace the pads then I would remove and measure them since there is not one size fits all . Here is a TaoTao oem part vendor www.eagleatvparts.com/ |
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What Oil ?
by: skuttadawg - Aug 17, 2013 0:41:43 GMT -5
Post by skuttadawg on Aug 17, 2013 0:41:43 GMT -5
I used Castrol GTX 10w40 at first then switched to Castrol Synblend . I also have used Shell Rotella 15w 40 too as its tough . Any major name brand of dino oil will work . After its broke in you can use a synthetic blend or full synthetic oil . Change it 250 miles with new build , again at 500 miles , then every 1,00 miles .
With new engine I would also put on a new drive belt
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Post by skuttadawg on Aug 16, 2013 23:59:47 GMT -5
I would leave the good one alone and mod the other . To me I think you should enjoy a good running scooter and when or if it gets to where the engine needs rebuilding as a great excuse to install a BBK . Lighter rollers and a unsealed carb with larger jets helps it run at optimal most of the time , as too many mods can overstress the engine with normal street quality parts that are not as good as high end racing stuff .
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Post by skuttadawg on Aug 14, 2013 0:17:27 GMT -5
Have you ever ridden a scooter or a motorcycle before ? If not then I strongly suggest you see if you can get to try a few out in order to be sure you want one . China scooters are NOT anywhere close to being as durable as a Honda , Suzuki or Italian scooter , but they cost much less . ALL scooters will need wrenching to keep them going . The more you mod for speed the faster parts wear out and break . A modded 50 can only do so much even with tons of mods . You may opt to get a decent 150 so that you only need to change out the shipping oil and gear lube with any automotive 10w40 and GL5 and just put good gas in it . Here is few more 50cc scoots with a couple of 2Ts www.powerrideoutlet.com/scooters-mopeds/49cc-50cc-scooters-mopeds.htmlIf you can afford a brand name like Honda , Aprilia , Vespa , or Kymco this may be a better option since they are of higher quality and Kymco has a 2 year warranty where some only 30 days to 6 months with limitations |
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Post by skuttadawg on Aug 13, 2013 23:43:28 GMT -5
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Post by skuttadawg on Aug 13, 2013 23:36:00 GMT -5
When it comes to engine parts brands and models often mean nothing as the 50s have a 139QMB engine and many share the same body types as other brands . If you look here you will see the most common types of bodies used www.scrappydogscooters.com/CHASSIS_PARTS.html . My Jonway Magnum has a handsome boy body like the Peace VIPs have and it has an access panel in the front as well as under the seat like most do . I can get to mos t things without having to remove any panels , where some are a pain to get to the carb as mine is exposed rather than covered . You can also remove the entire seat bucket with 4 nuts and a large screw that hold it on . I did remove the entire body as a single piece when I put on a BBK where some the panels are in pieces and not so easy to line up when putting back on . The scooters with 10 inch wheels do not handle that good at top speed and feel sketchy to me like my TaoTao ATma . I am too tall ( 6ft4 ) and had to hunch over and not comfortable . Scooters with larger wheels have a larger wheel base ( called longcase if 12 or larger as 10s are shortcase ) . I really love how my scooter with 13s rides , handles and I feel safe . My other scooter an Echarm has taller 16 wheels but not wide ( doughnuts ) like my 13s are . The handsome boy body also has two headlights that both burn at the same time , where some dual head lights one is for hi and the other low , and many only have a single headlight like a sunny boy body . Since you want to hot rod a 4T 50 , you can buy a BBK , a power kit or evenbolt on an 80+cc crate engine with CVT like here www.scrappydogscooters.com/139QMB_50cc_Performance.html If you want a 50cc toy to mod I would get a 2T ( 2 stroke ) with a Minarelli also called JOG engine type as stock they will outrun many modded 4T 50s and with a BBK , pipe and carb tuned I have smoked all 4T 50 hot rods and 2 GY6 150cc scooters . 2T have less parts to service or break , like valves to adjust or have to change oil . A 2T only uses fresh oil from the oil tank or premix instead of reusing in the crankcase and having to change it out . 2T can rev higher , more so with a BBK and performance pipe so they perform much better . Very easy to rebuild since no cam chain or valves to be bothered with . 2Ts are almost all gone as EPA has prevented any more to be imported except an Aprilia SR50 which costs 2 to 4 times more than most China scooters . 2T parts are easy to get and many high end places to get them as many race them on tracks as well as the streets . Those 2Ts with a Geely engine as well as the stand up gopeds are chaindriven instead of having a CVT which is like having " gears " so they are slooooow . With a CVT you can change out the variator weights and springs in order to tune it as desired |
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Post by skuttadawg on Aug 13, 2013 23:11:39 GMT -5
I would replace the voltage regulator ASAP . I have not heard of starting up a scoot with it unplugged as it may fry your electrical system . A hot or blown fuse can be from to many amps or voltage . Are the lights bright when it runs ? Buy it new or used ? Had higher wattage headlight(s) installed ? Has it blown any bulbs ? Electrical parts burn out just as mechanical parts wear out . Do headlights some on with start of engine or turn of the key ?
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Post by skuttadawg on Aug 11, 2013 0:14:55 GMT -5
Any dino oil for cars will work . I have used Castrol GTX and Shell Rotella when new then switched to Castrol Synblend . They come with crappy shipping oil not break in oil so dump that junk before you ride it . Make sure to change the gear lube with GL5 which is 80w90 and you may opt to use synthetic gear oil like Mobile1 or BelRay Gear Saver . Change both at 250 miles , again at 500 miles and both every 1,000 miles or when the color starts to go from gold to blackened . If black it should have already been changed . Make sure to clean the oil screen too every time you change the engine oil . Go to Dollar Tree and get a syringe like used to marinate meat to measure and put in the gear lube . You want to use any major brand oil with detergents ( nondetergents should NEVER be used ) and wait until 3rd or 4th oil change to opt to use synthetic blend like Synblend or a full synthetic . Synthetic is slicker and you need to use dino oil at first so the rings seat and grind smooth during the break in . Expect some ring dust the first two oil changes with the most on the first service .
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