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Post by JerryScript on Apr 13, 2015 0:50:53 GMT -5
I just crossed the 1250 mile mark after my ride today through my favorite parts of town to ride in. I wanted to share my thoughts, and a wholehearted recommendation for one of the 16" wheeled models.
I started looking for a new scooter towards the end of last year. I started a new job that has me working at various locations around the valley, and was looking to move up to a 150cc. I had always liked the look of the 16" models, but couldn't find many posts relating to performance, though I found many warning about difficulty finding parts.
I started searching for parts before ordering the scooter, and was happy to find that more parts dealers are carrying parts for the BN157QMJ-3. I've found a half dozen dealers with parts, and between them I'm confident I can get anything unique to this engine, and even a complete replacement engine if needed. Even the unique CVT parts are more easily found these days. After measuring the engine stud spacing, I'm happy to find most BBKs will work as well.
Performance of my stock scooter has been very good. Take off at half throttle leaves cars in my mirrors, and cruising 45-55 at 3/4 throttle leaves enough extra throttle when needed, and keeps me at the head of the pack when riding around the valley. I've had it to just over 70mph on the freeway for short periods, and the 16" wheels give a smooth stable ride at all speeds. The taller wheels and different CVT and final drive gears give the 16" wheeled 150cc models about 15mph more stock than standard 157QMJ models. I plan on upgrading to the 61mm NCY BBK this summer, with appropriate sliders to tune the CVT I hope to top 80mph with a bit of throttle to spare. My variator shows more than 3/8" unused at the edge, so I'm pretty confidentconfident I can get there.
The 16" wheels and size of the scooter give it more of a small motorcycle look and feel. It is no where near as nimble as my 50cc short case with 10" wheels, it turns much slower, but leans better in turns. Riding over a manhole cover with 16" wheels is nothing compared to the spine jarring jolts I experience on my 10" wheeled scooter, and the adjustable dual rear shocks make it tunable for me alone or with a passenger with a quick turn of the adjusters.
So if you are on the fence between a 150cc and something larger, but are not looking to tour the country on it, I would highly recommend getting one of the 16" wheeled 150cc models. At around $1500-2000 depending on where you purchase it, you will get the most bang for your buck, and have a ride that gets constant compliments! BTW- the dark blue paint job on my model is beautiful!
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Post by JerryScript on Apr 12, 2015 22:29:50 GMT -5
I'm pretty sure the cheap fluid is the reason those screws on the reservoir get stuck. Any water contamination in the fluid can cause it to boil, this would release moisture inside the system, and one way it would escape is via the screw holes, with pressure helping it through. The cheap metal these screws are made of then rust and get stuck.
I've changed the brake fluid on four Chinese scooters during PDI (reverse bleed and fill method), and each one had burnt looking brown fluid. And at least one if not both screws were stuck on each reservoir.
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Post by JerryScript on Apr 12, 2015 22:15:10 GMT -5
If valve lash gets real tight, or the valve seats get fouled or burned (burning occurs if lash is way to tight), the valve can stay open just a bit during combustion. This would explain gunk in your valve/rocker arm area.
Sounds like you've got it under control once you get your final parts. Let us know how it goes.
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Post by JerryScript on Apr 12, 2015 3:02:04 GMT -5
Thanks man , . the fan scoop took most of of the side damage when it hit the ground , then after it flew off the exhaust must have scraped the ground a little . there are a few scrapes , one on the muffler , the tip is scraped up a little, and the header has a mark on it where it ended up hitting the ground. The front fairing is cracked in two places , but I intend on using some bondo and some metal screen to take care of it. The main parts are the fan shround and the headlights . after I order those I may try to fix the rest with bondo and some screen , except for the front fender . I can just remove the whole front fender " front fender is two pieces " and ride without it. I kind of like the looks of it with out the fender . Good to hear you are ok! Be sure to check your master cylinder. I had my scooter fall over when I thought I had it on the center stand, broke the brake caliper just like yours. It also messed up the master cylinder plunger, causing it to leak every time I squeezed the brake.
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Post by JerryScript on Apr 10, 2015 16:40:08 GMT -5
If you take a bit and skin through millsc's posts, you'll find he has done more of these than most of us put together. I'll be following this new project closely, just like all your others!
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Post by JerryScript on Apr 9, 2015 14:43:50 GMT -5
My Znen 150cc has front and rear disk brakes, and I'm glad it does. Last month I pulled it out of the garage while running, put it on the center stand, turned around to close the garage door, and my scooter fell over. Itf broke the brake caliper, and damaged the master cylinder. I had to ride with only rear brakes for three days, and if it had been rear drum, I would have been white knuckled the whole time. With rear disk, I only had to stop sooner and increase following distances till I got the front master cylinder replaced.
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Post by JerryScript on Apr 9, 2015 14:26:37 GMT -5
I would contact whoever you bought it from, ask for a part number, and if they carry the part(s) you need.
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Post by JerryScript on Apr 8, 2015 16:02:09 GMT -5
On my 150cc, I plan on switching all lights to LEDs, switching to sliders, installing a cheap android phone for maps and theft prevention/recovery, and a 61mm BBK with uni intake and enlarged exhaust header. Hoping to reach 80, I can already hit 65-70 thanks to the gearing and 16" wheels.
On my 50cc, I plan on switching gears and finally enlarging the exhaust header. Hoping to reach between 55-60, currently topping out around 50.
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Post by JerryScript on Apr 7, 2015 13:38:22 GMT -5
If it's fuel, then it's time to check the head. A leak down test, or just go ahead and lap the valves.
However, the fact it only happens when cold keeps my suspicion pointed at condensation. I wouldn't tear the head down unless there is a loss of power, or the smoke continues after warm up.
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Post by JerryScript on Apr 6, 2015 18:58:32 GMT -5
In my opinion the head and cam is more important then the bbk. Without a ported or a bigger quality head and a better cam , you will never get the performance you are expecting from installing a bbk. On the other hand , with out a bbk you can still get much more out of you scoot from only changing the air and fuel flow through the engine. The head assembly " ports , valves and cam " is what allows more air and fuel to enter the chamber to be burned. Without this upgrade , your scoot will always be lacking. There is no replacement for displacement!
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Post by JerryScript on Apr 6, 2015 18:55:28 GMT -5
Always fun to watch your projects develop! What gears do you plan on using to attempt 60?
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Post by JerryScript on Apr 6, 2015 18:48:36 GMT -5
If is constantly smoking, then it's either oil or a broken exhaust. If it just smokes a while after startup, it could be condensation, especially this time of year.
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Post by JerryScript on Apr 4, 2015 19:11:31 GMT -5
To answer the original question, put a fuel filter on the end of the valve cover vent tube, then zip tie it up high on the frame.
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Post by JerryScript on Apr 3, 2015 20:16:29 GMT -5
Sounds like a short may have happened at the key switch. Since it won't turn, I'm thinking the short melted it a bit. The burnt wires definitely indicates a short somewhere. If you bypass the key switch, will it turn over?
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Post by JerryScript on Apr 3, 2015 15:00:03 GMT -5
No.
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