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Post by JerryScript on Apr 1, 2015 15:35:44 GMT -5
I'm at work now, check out videos on YouTube on how to check your float valve.
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Post by JerryScript on Apr 1, 2015 14:40:26 GMT -5
Fuel coming out the drain elbow indicates your float valve may not be working properly.
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Post by JerryScript on Apr 1, 2015 13:13:50 GMT -5
What have the temps been? This is the time of year when it's cold enough in the morning to need to run rich, and warm enough in the afternoon to need to lean it out. Cold air has more oxygen in the same space, so it needs more fuel, warm air is the opposite and needs less fuel.
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Post by JerryScript on Apr 1, 2015 13:07:40 GMT -5
Wow! Thank God you are safe! I've had similar, though less dramatic incidents, really glad to know you made it through this one!
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 31, 2015 16:01:30 GMT -5
The tried and true method is doubling or tripling the base gasket. You can also out in a more powerful starter motor.
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 31, 2015 1:07:04 GMT -5
The old bad wires drained the battery due to greater resistance. The dimmer lights were due to battery charging. Easy starting means less battery drain, and less juice going to charge the battery, more available for your lights. Do you have a 6 pole stator?
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 31, 2015 0:59:17 GMT -5
Any one knows if i need to recheck the torque on the engine head nuts, after i'll end the engine break in? I don't, but it couldn't hurt to do it when you check your valve lash. |
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 31, 2015 0:55:48 GMT -5
I'm not against switching to a Keihin, but it isn't necessary. You can use a Dremmel to cut a screw driver slot in the float bowl screws to remove them. And you can drill a tiny hole in the brass plug over the air/fuel screw, then screw one of your body panel screws in it till it pops out.
You can buy a rotary tool for the cost of a carb, if you don't have one, and use it on tons of projects that will make it pay for itself.
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 30, 2015 9:21:49 GMT -5
Very cool!
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wire gauge?
by: JerryScript - Mar 29, 2015 22:20:07 GMT -5
Post by JerryScript on Mar 29, 2015 22:20:07 GMT -5
Jerry,
A larger gauge (lower gauge number) wire will offer LESS resistance. Oops, thanks for the correction, that's what I get for posting right before going to sleep! I should have said so long as the change in resistance doesn't effect the circuit. |
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 28, 2015 1:55:17 GMT -5
Im looking for a decent set of ear buds that would fit under my helmet so I can listen to my Zune player while riding,,anybody have any ideas? No I don't want speakers on my scoot...lol Please Please Please, let's try to keep these threads on track, and start new threads for different subjects. Reading many of the threads here, you start with some decent feedback in the responses, then it devolves into a conversation between two of the responders, and the conversation has nothing to do with the OP's request. Let's all try to keep things just a bit more organized, please. |
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wire gauge?
by: JerryScript - Mar 28, 2015 1:51:25 GMT -5
Post by JerryScript on Mar 28, 2015 1:51:25 GMT -5
I agree with Leo, unless it is a circuit that will suffer from a bit of extra resistance in the larger gauge wire, always go up one size.
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 27, 2015 15:05:30 GMT -5
If I didn't have any other reason to decide between the two, I would check to see which will have the best weather. Where ever you end up, enjoy the ride!
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 27, 2015 15:02:13 GMT -5
The accelerator pump only squirts a bit of fuel in via a diaphragm, it will not affect your idle speed when not twisting the throttle. After you changed back to the  main jet, did you go thru the carb tuning procedures again? |
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 26, 2015 13:33:02 GMT -5
Doh!!!  |
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main jet, did you go thru the carb tuning procedures again?