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Post by JerryScript on Aug 29, 2015 22:10:45 GMT -5
What is your crankcase vent tube attached to? It's normally attached to the air filter. Most scooters with a uni type filter re-route the vent tube, here we recommend attaching a fuel filter to the end of the tube and zip tying it high on the frame.
If tracing the vent tube doesn't solve the mystery, and there is no leakage, check the plug for fouling, a black build up indicating ring problems.
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Post by JerryScript on Aug 28, 2015 11:00:18 GMT -5
For the seat piece, we'll need a pic and model number.
For throttle cable adjusting, there are nuts in front of and behind the cable attaching bracket on the carb, with a rubber boot on one side. Use those nuts to adjust till you have 1/8-1/4" play. You may have to adjust the idle speed screw after adjusting the slack.
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Post by JerryScript on Aug 28, 2015 10:55:48 GMT -5
If you're keeping it stock, the only 150cc that can handle highway speeds are the 16" wheeled models. Mine tops out at 73mph, and I have driven it across the valley on the freeways many times, no problem cruising 60-65. On the surface roads I have enough power to lead the pack if I want, and enough throttle response to handle any situation. The 16" wheels are night and day different, manhole covers and potholes don't scare me anymore!
I'm waiting a full year before putting a BBK on it, I'm hoping to reach 80mph fully modded. Plenty of parts available online, most standard parts fit, and there are several dealers that carry the special sized parts. Luckily I've only had to replace a master cylinder and turn signal flasher, both are standard to all models.
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Post by JerryScript on Aug 27, 2015 22:15:53 GMT -5
The bn139qmb will take most stock parts, and performance parts for a standard 139qmb. The one difference is the head, the bn uses different sized valves and rocker arms. You can switch to a standard or performance head (I have) but you have to change rocker arms when you do.
Bintelli stands out with their superior warranty and dealer network. Both Lance and Bintelli rebrand the highest quality Chinese manufacturers, and have active oversight agents in China helping to ensure higher QC.
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Post by JerryScript on Aug 27, 2015 20:03:24 GMT -5
The seat lock usually pulls a small cable that releases the latch. Sometimes you can reach up from underneath and feel around to find either the cable or latch. If the lock is on the side it's easier, if it's behind the seat you may have to break it (just drill the lock out and replace it they're cheap).
You can get new keyed ignitions cheap, just about all the trusted dealers with banners at the top of the page carry them.
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Post by JerryScript on Aug 26, 2015 14:01:44 GMT -5
Vibrating plastics that are not secured can squeek.
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Post by JerryScript on Aug 26, 2015 13:52:09 GMT -5
Thanks to dannytroy for the instructions for this simple mod. If you have side by side headlights, with one set to high beam and the other low, like my scooter, here is a simple way to have the option to have both on. Usually these setups have a three position switch, with high, low, and both on with a spring to return to low when released. This spring loaded both on position can be easily made to stay on instead of springing back when released. -remove the two screws holding the switch on the handle bars. --Option 1 -cut the black tab holding the spring with an exacto knife, this is not reversible --Option 2 -use a jewler's screwdriver to pry the spring out --Option 3 -disassemble the switch and remove the spring, then reassemble -put switch back on handle bars and put in the two screws tightly I was able to do option 2 without breaking the tabs, but I could see one or both being broken this way. I did gouge the palm of my hand when I popped the spring out. Now I have a three position switch, with the ability to have added visibility at night with both lights on when I want. |
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Post by JerryScript on Aug 26, 2015 11:23:44 GMT -5
I agree, as I said earlier, a uni often requires up-jetting.
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Post by JerryScript on Aug 25, 2015 12:13:41 GMT -5
Are the jets the same size as the ones in the old carb? If so, you may need to change them, due to the uni intake. A uni usually allows more air in, meaning you need more fuel. I would start with the next size jet up.
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Last try
by: JerryScript - Aug 23, 2015 13:10:53 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by JerryScript on Aug 23, 2015 13:10:53 GMT -5
Jerry, your SSR is the same as my lance. I am a nube, so can you explain how to test the stator with the multimeter. What am I looking for and what exactly do I need to remove to test it besides the fan housing and the flywheel? or do I even need to go that far? Thanks. If your Lance is the same body style, and has the battery under the seat: -remove the seat -remove the battery -remove the seat bucket --If you cannot reach the points to test shown in the video above -remove lower side body panels -place battery on floor panel and hook up, secure it if you attempt to start it! Be careful when pulling the plastics ro get to the screws on the upper side body panels, I scratched mine on the passenger hand grips by pulling up, I've learned to pull down, one screw on each side is a real pain to get to. |
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Last try
by: JerryScript - Aug 23, 2015 11:13:04 GMT -5
via mobile
lain likes this
Post by JerryScript on Aug 23, 2015 11:13:04 GMT -5
The stator pickup was being leaked on by the air box drain tube and the plastic housing is a little eaten away. but the wires are intact and the circuit tested good. This is why I recommended to test the stator with a multimeter when hot. |
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Post by JerryScript on Aug 23, 2015 10:58:25 GMT -5
I took my rear tire to Pep Boys, they mounted it in two minutes. When I asked how much, the guy at the counter said just tip the guy that mounted it. Living in Vegas, a nice tip will get you by more often than not!
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Last try
by: JerryScript - Aug 22, 2015 11:19:11 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by JerryScript on Aug 22, 2015 11:19:11 GMT -5
Test the stator with a multimeter when hot and the problem is happening. I'm thinking you have a heat short.
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New Paint Job
by: JerryScript - Aug 21, 2015 12:05:23 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by JerryScript on Aug 21, 2015 12:05:23 GMT -5
What polishing compound did you use? and what brand of paint works best? I used Turtle Wax polishing compound, half the price of the top brands, and still gives a nice finish. I used Dupli-Color primer and paint, but next time I think I'll try the Krylon paint made for plastics. I don't think it's requires primer, it bonds straight onto the plastic (but would require more coats to hide imperfections without primer). |
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Fuel problems
by: JerryScript - Aug 21, 2015 0:04:12 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by JerryScript on Aug 21, 2015 0:04:12 GMT -5
I've often wondered if the float could be replaced with a ping pong ball. If mine goes bad, I'm going to experiment!
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