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Post by dakotafig on Mar 8, 2014 11:05:45 GMT -5
Also, what did you adjust your valves to?
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Post by dakotafig on Mar 8, 2014 11:03:17 GMT -5
One of the first things you should do is adjust the carb. In the tech section there is a great write up on how to adjust the carb. Have you had the carb apart to see what size jets are installed? These things come with pretty much random jets installed from China. I had to go up about 15 sizes to get mine adjusted correctly. Surprised it didn't kill itself in the first 1000 miles I drive it. Always better to be slightly rich than slightly lean.
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Post by dakotafig on Mar 8, 2014 10:50:05 GMT -5
Is there a specific dimension this should be put back on to, like distance between back of gear and case or should the shaft be marked to put it back in the same location?
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Post by dakotafig on Mar 6, 2014 13:27:19 GMT -5
For the horn question in your earlier posts, it is most likely the horn itself, I believe they die fairly commonly. The horn is usually in the front behind the headlights somewhere. Pull the wire off the horn and put a multimeter between that wire and ground (battery negative). Turn the switch on and press the horn switch. If you have voltage then it is the horn itself or your horn isn't getting a good ground. If you don't have voltage then it is somewhere upstream like a switch etc. If it looks like the horn itself is bad you can do one last check by running a jumper wire from the battery to the input of the horn to see if it goes off like that.
If it is bad you can just go to a parts store and buy a replacement horn and put it in. A replacement horn might be just a touch bigger but you should be able to bend the bracket it is on to make it fit.
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Post by dakotafig on Mar 6, 2014 13:16:48 GMT -5
It should be ok, but there is always that one chance where the starting process could draw to much current etc etc and kill it. I used to always run a battery tender on mine but I unplugged it before I started it. I actually hooked up a cord from the battery to under the seat and put an s plug on it so when I pulled in the garage and shut it off I just flipped up the seat and plugged the float charger to it. 11 pole upgrade solved the need for that.
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Post by dakotafig on Mar 4, 2014 23:25:52 GMT -5
Pepboyjoe, in all honesty you are really going to want an 11 pole stator upgrade, I don't think the stock 8 pole will really like it at all, and there is no way a 6 pole will keep up.
As for the MAP sensor, if this is like an automotive style sensor (which I'm assuming it is) you should be able to check it. There should be a voltage, a common and a signal pin if it is a 3 wire sensor. You should be able to change the pressure on the sensor and watch the signal voltage between signal and common change from around 5 volts to almost zero volts. I'm not for sure what the pressure range on this MAP sensor is compared to an automotive style is however.
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Post by dakotafig on Mar 2, 2014 16:53:33 GMT -5
Is there a way to upload a pdf file to the message board, or do I need to host it on my own somewhere and link to it? I would like to post my first draft instructions on what I did for this project for everyone to review and give me feedback. If I need to host is somewhere I can figure something out.
The instructions I wrote up ended up being a little more than I expected, but I hope they at least can make sense to someone and help them complete this down the road.......
Thanks.
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Post by dakotafig on Mar 1, 2014 21:04:00 GMT -5
So your saying you don't get anything out if the valve cover vent, yet your crankcase is building pressure? Sorry maybe I didn't understand what you were meaning. Wide open throttle or not that air flow is coming from somewhere and if it is enough to be more than what the valve cover can vent that's probably bad. I put an actual breather filter on the end of my valve cover vent. I brought the hose up to the side of the frame under the seat and zip tied it making sure there were no dips in the hose. The filter looks like a mini uni filter.
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Post by dakotafig on Mar 1, 2014 18:11:04 GMT -5
Compression test would answer everything.
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Post by dakotafig on Feb 28, 2014 0:24:07 GMT -5
Maybe it's just me but I don't think you would want to start it if they are touching. The rod will stretch, valves will grow longer ect once started. Basically no good can come of it, and it isn't something that would fix itself.
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Post by dakotafig on Feb 27, 2014 1:01:19 GMT -5
What do you mean by "previous setting won't work on this one"?
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Post by dakotafig on Feb 26, 2014 9:17:06 GMT -5
That is a good looking scoot! Liquid cooled and EFI!
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Post by dakotafig on Feb 26, 2014 0:43:44 GMT -5
Sure enough, looked tonight and it was there. Had the cover off several times but didn't pay attention to that. Guess I should check it out at some point and make sure mine isn't clogged.
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Post by dakotafig on Feb 24, 2014 8:57:50 GMT -5
what happens when it breaks down and dont tell me it doesnt When it breaks down, you fix it. Just like when the carb screws up you fix it. The majority of us probably don't ride our Chinese scoots in absolutely desolate places. My opinion (and that is all it is, I'm not flaming back) I would take fuel injection any day over a carb no matter where I would be going.
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Post by dakotafig on Feb 22, 2014 15:59:24 GMT -5
Do the Chinese scoots have that on the CVT? I don't recall ever seeing anything like that.
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