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I am really interested in seeing how yours turns out. I just did a lot of re-wiring on mine mostly because of an 11 pole stator upgrade, but also to have the future capability of FI.

The thing I have seen that is kind of vague is the throttle cable modification to make it hook up to the throttle body. Did you have to do much with that?

You should be able to take the sender out and check the resistance versus float angle. If the resistance doesn't change as you move the float or if the float circuit has zero resistance or is open then the sender is bad.

I believe this is fairly common.

If the resistance looks ok you would want to look up what the resistance range should be and verify. If the sender looks good than it is wiring or your gauge.

It really wasn't that bad. If I was just going to upgrade the stator and rectifier, probably a 4 with 10 being the hardest. But, that doesn't give the wiring any protection at all. Obviously doing something the second time is much easier than the first so I could do the complete wiring change over in an evening this second time around. I would say my mods were probably only a 5 in terms of difficulty just for the fact I had to fish wires through the body, ect. I guess not really that hard, just takes some time.

That's why I'm hoping I can get some complete instructions and diagrams posted soon so maybe I could take the learning curve out for somebody.

Well, I have learned a lot and found a couple of potential other issues over the weekend. The first issue was the ignition switch not shutting off the scoot. Well, I took the switch out and found the green wire was broken off at the solder joint. I have been having an issue with it cutting out at various times while driving it and I'm not for sure if this could have anything to do with it or not..... Anyway, so I soldered the wire back on and all is well on that front.



The biggest thing was the fuse block. I went to O'Reilly's and purchased a 5 circuit fuse block. Here is my thoughts with that:
Circuit 1: Headlights
Circuit 2: Rectifier output
Circuit 3: Ignition switch
Circuit 4: Dash lights etc.
Circuit 5: Future (fuel injection )

Since I have a uni filter I don't have the stock air box, so I used one of the stock air box bracket and bent it flat to use as a mounting spot for the fuse block. I ran a main wire from the battery with a 20 amp fuse to supply power to each circuit on the fuse block. Then, each one of the individual power feeds runs up to the front. If I would have thought that through in the first place I could have bundled the wires and pulled them up at one time, but I ended up pulling three separate wires at three separate times. The ignition switch feed uses the existing stock wire, but the only thing it powers is the power to the ignition switch. I cut the other red wire that used to go to the stock rectifier. I'm not finished with the last circuit in these pictures yet, and I still have a zip tie holding the fuse block down, but I will screw that down tonight.





Up front, I used two relays for the headlights. They basically follow the exact wiring diagram photo I posted earlier. You can see them just below and to the right of the horn.



Some of you might ask why did I put the rectifier directly to the fuse block on its own wire. Well, as I took one of my mirrors off I found one of the running light wires had chafed through and actually shorted out. Well, being the fact there was no fuse between the rectifier and anything else that could have very likely contributed to the death of the factory rectifier. So, with its very own fuse almost directly to the battery, it would never be affected by any other short circuit or other wiring malfunction. I will probably end up increasing the fuse size to a 15 amp because if the 11 pole stator/rectifier is 135 watt, that is a little over 11 amps. My thoughts on fuses are always start small and go from there.......

Hopefully tonight I can get everything completely buttoned up. The snow is almost completely melted so I could be riding.

I do have one minor question, I haven't hooked up the fuel enricher yet and I will have to poke a new wire into the little two wire plug. Does anybody have any recommendations on getting the wires out of the plug without destroying it?

Quick update on the not shutting off thing, completely unrelated to the stator upgrade. I would ground out the wire and it shut off. Next step was checking connections ect. Well, I found that if I wiggled the wires going into the back of the switch it would trigger the kill wire. So, I guess I'll be opening that up to see what is going on in there.

Also, I checked the voltage at the battery, 14.3 volts at any speed. Awesome......

I have lots of pictures of the fuse block and wiring I did and I will be posting those later.

Thanks for everyone's help!

Ok, I have verified when the ignition switched is turned off the voltage is turned off on the black wire. I will check the grounding and see what I have going on there, I just didn't know exactly how the kill was activated on the CDI.

I didn't have my dmm in the shop last night so I will check that out this afternoon.

As for the headlight relay you are right, I can use a single pole double throw relay. Low beam power can go through the NC contact and the high beam power can go through the NO contact. Then the original high beam power can run the coil of that relay. I would have probably figured that out, it was just to late last night for me be thinking straight.

I have a 150 gy6.

Thanks for the pictures. I looked at the stator a little closer and then it became fairly obvious to me which was the pick up wire. Sometimes I ask stupid questions even though I have the answer right in front of me.