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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 17, 2015 15:23:27 GMT -5
I have insurance on mine but my reg ran out..jersey wants $67 now to reg a scooter,,thats as much as my truck!!
Makes me mad but I am going to have to do it.
Funny thing was she gave me a moped plate the first time I went there to reg it,,I told her its not a moped,,should have kept my mouth shut.But then again if a cop saw me fly by at 60mph with moped plates he might get upset..lol
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 17, 2015 15:09:43 GMT -5
This might also help you too if you have this PAIR system.
Here is the best spot for your fuel tank vent if you have a 150.
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 17, 2015 15:04:03 GMT -5
I watched a friend use a package of 10 fingernail files to do it once. I was amazed it worked, but once pressed in the ring it measured up perfect. Where there's a will there's a way! That will work,, What I did was put the file in the gap of the ring then just lightly put pressure on both sides of the ring equally so each side of the file was working flat and square to the ring ends,you need to make sure you hold the ring tight,,I would do a couple LIGHT strokes then look closely at my progress making sure I was cutting them perfectly square or as close to square as possible.It doesn't take much to remove.001",,once you go too far its too late. |
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 17, 2015 14:51:58 GMT -5
Ive seen people set them both to .008 on a 57mm with no problems,,but if you do the math in the Wisco chart I posted on my thread they should be a little more than that,,also bottom ring is ALWAYS gapped bigger.
Get yourself a small FINE flat file to do the job then just make sure to debur them with a little bit of 400 grit sandpaper.
I found a great fine flat file at Lowes used for filing rakers on a chainsaw chain,,it was $4 and comes with a depth gauge that you wont use unless working on a chainsaw chain.
Both my oil rings where at .008 from factory so i left them alone.
Use the piston to push the ring down into the jug square before measuring.
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 17, 2015 11:34:57 GMT -5
John is right,,
I always choke off my muffler with a rag or a glove and you would be surprised how much more you can hear,,my pipe almost sounds like a metallic ting ting ting ting along with the rumble when idling,soon as I put my glove over it goes away.
Them all i can hear is the valves a little and the crank of coarse doing its normal thing.These GY6 motors are quit noisy little buggers even when things are normal.
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 17, 2015 11:31:36 GMT -5
I didn't have problems with the crossbar, it sits a bit tight, but a bit of patience can do wonders  Yes,, Patience is important when working on chinese scoot Daneilson...if get to rammy,,things break,must have gentle touch:) |
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 17, 2015 0:12:23 GMT -5
I know some guy who had 30K miles on his chinese scoot and all he did was replace a clutch and tires,,he used the castrol synthetic oil from day one and ran it 45-50 mph for 60 miles everyday to work and back,,he is on youtube also..he sold it still in good running shape.
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 17, 2015 0:08:52 GMT -5
The starter clutch is secured with a backwards thread nut from what I remember that takes a special tool or a chisel to get off.I think the starter clutch has a bunch of small parts in it.If yours is original It wouldn't hurt to replace it Geh.
I was going to do mine but my scooter starts up pretty easy even with the BBK.
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Backfiring
by: jerseyboy - Jan 16, 2015 21:50:25 GMT -5
Post by jerseyboy on Jan 16, 2015 21:50:25 GMT -5
Ohh dewd,,
You should just wait for new rings,,especially if you honed out the cylinder,now your going to have to re hone it again..I set my ring gaps to .009 top .011 bottom and have loads of compression and no smoke,,not even close to being broke in yet...oil rings where both at .008 from factory so i left them alone.Anything more than .012 and i would get new ones,,especially the top,,you can get chatter,scuffing,and blow by if they are too far out of tolerance.
Glad your headed in the right direction at least!
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 16, 2015 21:45:14 GMT -5
That would be a "starter" wind breaker . as in the brand name . that's where I got mine from also,lol. Hey jersey , those hands are hard to keep warm ,lol. Yeah,,they are right out in the wind,,I need to get some heated hand grips if I am going to ride in the Winter..lol |
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 16, 2015 21:43:42 GMT -5
Yes Captain,,
All you will need is a short piece of that pipe,,Id say 6" to get you through the cross bar then just mount the UNI.
Kinda like an extension..keep us posted,,I really enjoy seeing how far the stock taotao's will go,,I was going to run mine until it blew but then I got antsy and did a BBK at 4K km,,it ran perfect up to that point,the original piston was a little scuffed on one side with some carbon down it,not sure why?..lol..oh well,,maybe next time.
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 16, 2015 18:55:21 GMT -5
These motors are made out of swiss cheese from the chinese,,not sure how long it would stay dialed in like you mention,,after time and high RPM's things will change no matter what you do.
I just say put the cross hairs on and have the cam gear perfectly level with plane of head,,leave well enough alone,,sounds way to complicating to me for a GY6 motor,,now if we where talking about a Honda RA121E V12 engine that would be a different story,,but these are little cheap toys to have fun with.Where else could you get a brand new motor/trans for $300 ready to drop in and gooooo!!!..lol
BTW-I noticed awesome results from my A10 cam along with my big port head and 60mm bore...and all was bolt on except for setting ring end gap...its not broke in yet but it pulls alot harder and sounds throatier than any other 150 scooter I heard.
Definitely open to what you are doing though,,very interesting and I like learning about these technical things.
Tom
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 16, 2015 18:39:35 GMT -5
It really stunk but I had to drill a small hole in my right side panel to stop a crack from getting worse,,I plan on doing a little epoxy,scuff,and puff this spring on it,,guess i will grind out the crack a little and try to fill it with epoxy then sand and paint??
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 16, 2015 18:03:56 GMT -5
Im heading to walmart now,,will take a look..need my rice and beans for lunch..lol
Thanks Scoot!
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 16, 2015 18:00:35 GMT -5
How do you know what size uni filter to use? And did you have to adjust the carb after? Filters are usually two sizes (NOT always), one for 50cc carbs (38mm) and the other for 125cc+ carbs (42mm), mine is 125cc but the engine base an parts are pretty much the same than a 150cc, I bought the 42mm "High performance air filters" from Scrappy's, it came with the pre-filter as well, fits on my scoot without issues. Another thing I'm planning to experiment with is to put an extension hose on the carb's manifold to place the filter facing the front of the bike, some place where it gets more air and water can't get in; my scooter has a decorative grill on the plastic front, that might be useful to catch the bigger particles, then the pre-filter and filter would take care of the rest. I saw some real nice nylon cord reinforced polypipe at Homedepot,,its like $5 for 3ft.I bet the 2" will fit right on the back of the carb then you can relocate that UNI anywhere you like,,mine is in the stock airbox,,but I have five 3/4" holes drilled in the box,,i kinda like my idea cause it keeps the UNI out of the water and major road dust but still get the performance of having it there. |
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