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Post by geh3333 on Jun 5, 2015 17:49:41 GMT -5
yeah ground is to the valve cover bolt, and even with gaskets the valve cover isnt isolated, valve cover has a o-ring seal not a pancake gasket so its metal to metal contact with the cylinder head and the cylinder studs run thru everything, it's really not a bad place for a ground several factory scooters have that being the place for the engine ground, its not like the provided an extra 12 inches of wire to move it either, thats where it was originally, thats the only place the wire was long enough to attach to and it ohms out as a good spot with my meter, never saw the need to move it. The gaskets on the valve cover really don't make a difference with the ground , since the bolt is threaded into the head. |
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 5, 2015 17:41:25 GMT -5
Yes got it opened!! Thank you all, it was still hooked up, to an aftermarket release hidden in the body panels.. I tried to post this answer as a quick reply but didn't see it on the board. As you can see a REAL newbie to forum boards. Does anyone know where I can buy the plastic clips that hold the panels on. Yes I broke them searching for the release cable. tjanddj Zip ties !! |
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 5, 2015 12:22:55 GMT -5
I agree , just go through all the wiring , even if you have to remove most of the harness . at this point I'd say you will need to test the stator and regulator to see if they are still usable. Hopefully you caught it in time. When a short occurs it is very important to check every piece of wiring to see where it happened and if it caused any other damage to other wires in the harness.
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 5, 2015 12:11:24 GMT -5
The more I look , the more I have a problem with the exhaust port. There is no space for the donut type gasket now . I don't use one , but some use both types of exhaust gaskets. I really don't think they should have ported the exhaust port. They usually come big enough on the bigger heads. If the exhaust port is now bigger then the header diameter , it may cause some issue with the gasses escaping smoothly. I would have liked to see just a nice polish job on the exhaust port. I would have piked to see the lines smoothened out where the gasket sits also. I don't mean to be negative , I'm just a little concerned.
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 5, 2015 12:05:14 GMT -5
Not sure if its just the pic , intake and exhaust ports look pretty messy. The first pic looks pretty clean , but still not that polished. I'm curious what others think .
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 5, 2015 2:10:31 GMT -5
Thanks for the help so far everyone. Where can I buy and how can I install the fuel pump? It would make sense for fuel delivery to be the issue because sometimes I simply don't feel reaction to throttle action. I'll slow down to take a turn and then try to spring back to 40 mph from about 17 or 20 mph and it just takes forever, but not because I'm impatient. It takes forever because the engine is simply not working at WOT-like RPMs. A gravity fed system does not need a fuel pump. The carb bowl can only hold so much fuel before the float slows the flow down. I would get rid of any vacuum operated fuel valve and replace it with a manual shutoff valve. I never close mine unless I am doing any type of work where I need to shut the fuel flow off. The float in the carb will shut the fuel flow off when the scoot sits. Or you could shut it down every time your not riding , what ever you prefer. A fuel pump on a gravity fed system is like installing another front brake lever somewhere on the scoot and pulling both at the same time. |
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 5, 2015 1:59:31 GMT -5
We had this problem about 2 weeks or so ago, the electric start AND the kick start weren't working. We took it to the dealer and got it repaired, the electric start worked for one day and then stopped working again. We can kick start it fine but not electric, it just makes a grinding sound. We bought another spark plug but when we called the dealer and asked they said they already replaced it when it was there and that it was most likely the battery, that it was a bad battery and wasn't recharging. We checked the battery with a tester we had and it says the battery has voltage. We live pretty far from the dealer and literally just got it back, and they were kinda jerks to us last time we took it so we really don't want to take it back. The problem they fixed while it was there was a hole in the left intake valve, but obviously there was another problem that they did not fix. Does anyone have any idea what could be wrong? We really don't want to have to buy another battery unless we absolutely have to, we've only been able to kick start it for about a week now. It runs fine when we do kickstart it. Easy to tell if it is the battery . get a set of jumper cables , hook the scoot batter to a car battery. Try to start the scoot. If it starts just fine , then the battery is toast. Even if the battery is showing voltage doesn't mean its ok. The battery should read over 12 volts when fully charged and must be able to hold the voltage under load. These batteries go bad pretty easy. Now if you jump the scoot and all it does is grinds, then I would say a possible starter or starter clutch issue . |
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 5, 2015 1:42:57 GMT -5
Howdy all, old scootdawg coming over to tap to collective brain. I have half a dozen or so of the chinese bastards, done engine swaps mods, etc...never been anything i could figure out.... butblew the engine out a tao tao 21b at 65mph, shredded it to little pieces, literally broke the mounts and case and everything else, rod sheared and jack hammered the case to bits, the brake line and all the wiring and lines and such is the only thing kept the rear wheel from separating from the scooter and probably killing me. Stuck in a new engine, changed the stator out for the one out the old engine, and literally fired it up on the first push of the starter button. ran the engine, which purred like a kitten, 20 minutes later i changed the oil, fired it back up and warmed it up went for full throttle it burped, coughed and hiccuped, then the wiring harness from the stator, (stator and magnetic pickup harness) started smoking.....smoked a few wires, ideas before i tear it apart or is it a bad juju scooter, toss it on the curd and forget about it? after i take my engine of course, or not. Well obviously an electrical issue. You used the old stator , and old regulator. I'd say since the engine nearly tore from the scoot , you had bare spots in the wiring , possibly caused by the near disaster. Dmartin is the guy to ask for answers here on the site . he knows everything there is to know about anything electrical on these scoots . |
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 5, 2015 1:32:44 GMT -5
personally the 30mm carbs have never worked for me, i have tried a couple on several different scooters, since they work off constant velocity, and the max volume is pretty much decided by the engine size and rpm. at high rpms the engine can not draw more air in order to push up the slide and raise the needle for more fuel, by increasing the diameter or the bore the slide has to raise less in order to feed the same volume of air, almost anytime i see a 30mm work was when someone had a carb adjusted for crap, and going to a well adjusted stock carb increases throttle response and drive-ablity and power. They tend to be harder to tune . I actually cut a coil or so off of the plunger spring , I kept the pilot in that came with my 32mm carb and I went with a 125 main jet. I can get my scoot to idle even under 1500 rpms , as low as 1300 rpms without stalling. I had a member try a cheap 30mm carb with no luck , no matter what size jet he used . finally the shop that he took it to said the carb must be defective , as I would imagine many of the cheap branded carbs are. He bought a 28mm mikuni racing carb and used a much bigger main jet then was even tried in the 30mm. He had a 61mm gy6 200 from scrappy. It was acting rich even with a 115 main jet with the 30mm carb. His 28mm mikuni racing carb took an equivalent of a keihin 140 main jet , If I remember correctly. These bigger pumper carbs can def be a pain to tune . I believe the pump can even be adjusted for when it squirts the extra fuel in. I have great throttle response now and great power throughout the throttle range . this also has a lot to do with the CVT , so I cannot say the carb is the only reason for this. I had a little slower takeoff when I had the cheap koso variator in . it would not let my belt drop in the variator , which slowed takeoff down a little . actually some setups may not be able to take the bigger carb . its just strange to me , considering I have a small 58.5 bbk and my 32mm pumper carb seems to be a perfect match for it. Of course I have a nice head also . I'd like to get ahold of one of the scoots that don't seem to be able to handle the bigger carbs and see if I could figure out why . |
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 5, 2015 1:02:58 GMT -5
If its attached like many other scoots , you can take the front bolt out and release the front of the seat . from there you may be able to pop the seat off or even be able to get inside to change the battery. Def post a pic. I locked my keys under my seat before and I was able to just unbolt the front of the seat from the frame and get into the compartment that way.
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 5, 2015 1:00:00 GMT -5
I never removed an engine, but it does look like a lot to do. Here is how I would set the scooter up if trying to get that bolt out without disconnecting the engine nor removing the head from the engine. Remove the exhaust, cooling fan cover and just the bottom half of the plastic cooling shroud. That half of the cooling shroud will look something like this:  Then drain the gas tank and carburetor of gas. With some old sheets, towels, pillows, yoga mats, cushions, whatever can be found, create a soft area on the floor for the scooter. Then gently lay the scooter onto its side. After that, you should be able to sit down next to it and do your work much more easily since the bottom of the engine has no shrouding and is facing you instead of the ground. That's actually not that bad of an idea. You really wouldn't even have to lay it down flat on it side . you could probably have the scoot about a ft and a half from actually laying on its side and still be able to everything just fine. |
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 5, 2015 0:53:21 GMT -5
I destroyed one of my stock heads trying to drill out a broken stud. I tried to rethread one of the holes but it didnt work out. Please explain whT you did. I drilled the stud out . while doing so , I messed the threads up , so I tried rethreading a size bigger , but it didn't work. I'm thinking the kit I used was old and wore out. When I got to the point of rethreading , it just wasn't threading right. |
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 5, 2015 0:47:46 GMT -5
Another thing that helps , is to use the actual uni filter oil , rather then motor oil or none at all. The oil that's made for these foam filters are made to help with dirt and moisture.
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 5, 2015 0:40:24 GMT -5
Another nice thing about the radiator hose , you can cut it in a way that it angles the carb down a little , if the cross bar is in the way of the carb inlet. I had to slightly do that also. You can cut a 2 inch or so piece of hose , attach it to the manifold , then cut the hose so the carb slides straight in and even with the engine. This way the filter can attach to the carb under the crossbar.
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 4, 2015 3:40:19 GMT -5
My engine case says 1p39qmb , and the valve cover has a 50cc stamped into it, lol. But it came as a 150cc , now with all the mods. So its registered as a 150cc with a new engine that screams 50cc and its actually ,155cc or so scoot that will nearly hit 70mph , lol. I'm sure if I got pulled over and the they looked over the scoot there may be a few questions. But then again , here in PA even a 50cc needs to be registered and you still need a motorcycle license , so I really don't think all that matters here , now that I think about it.
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