|
|
Post by geh3333 on May 29, 2015 20:55:42 GMT -5
so my NCY Big Valve Cylinder Head cam in. rapped in some brown paper and did not have an NCY box. How do i know it is NCY? Anyway I took it to the machine shop and which usually works on high end motorcycles and cars and they said this is officially the worse head they ever saw. they said that they will be able to make it much better. The good thing they were so exited about the little head, lol... Here are some pics of the head and the shop.    
as a side note the rest of my order came in, NCY 30mm carburator with no NCY box??? ? Intake manifold looks very nice NCY BBK is in NCY box. Where did you order it from ? |
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on May 29, 2015 19:21:57 GMT -5
I saw that black 117mm disk but saw no reviews on it yet. Didn't know gy6racingteam was slinging it themselves. Think I may just try it on this build, I've had no problems dealing with them on other engine stacks. The P.R. packing newspaper is cool to look through too. Thanks for the links peeps. I've only noticed one 117mm drive face being sold . not sure if you have seen others or not |
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on May 29, 2015 14:04:58 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on May 29, 2015 13:20:23 GMT -5
I cannot think of any reason why that wouldn't work. That's a really good idea. Definitely let me know how that turns out. You saw my other thread where I am not quite happy with the 1500. I think you are on to something. The k&s variator I have is nice , but it takes a little getting use to , to get it tuned in. The koso I had took 9 to 10 gram weights and I was using a 2000 main spring . I was running around 67 mph on a straight run at around 7500 rpms, but the belt was not climbing fully in the variator. I was at 66mph at 7000 rpms with the k&s variator with 15 gram weights and a stock spring , and had full climb on the variator . I have more room to pick up some top end speed , that's where I'm having a little bit of an issue. But I should get it figured out soon . |
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on May 29, 2015 13:12:33 GMT -5
I was lucky to find space for the 10 inch rim, we have a standup 2 door side-by-side fridge/freezer and the freezer is only 10 inches wide. I had to wedge it in ontop of some ice cream lol I'll take a piece of that 10" rim with some ice cream . |
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on May 29, 2015 13:03:12 GMT -5
You could put male and female blade connectors on the wires, and connect the white wire from the switch to the blue wire going to the bulb, and the opposite with the other 2. This should correct it. Then, just switch them back when you get a bulb that works. Yeah , that's really all that would be necessary. Just cut the high and low beam wires reverse them and splice back together. |
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on May 29, 2015 12:02:30 GMT -5
Anyone see that Honda is using the CVT transmission on the new Honda cars like the Honda Civics ?
|
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on May 29, 2015 11:33:50 GMT -5
I don't think so. They are ratednthe same , but I once ordered some main springs and someone sent me ones that were much shorter and they seemed as of they were really weak compared to the ncy and even the stock spring. Actually with the lighter roller weights that the 50cc scoots use , the springs would have to be different.
|
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on May 29, 2015 11:25:37 GMT -5
I stuck my whole 13 inch rim in my freezer for 30 mins and left the tire bake in the hot sun. I also used a little grease around the bead, and that was the easiest I ever got the tires on ! I also just had screw drivers and a sledge hammer. Once you get one side on , try to keep it " the side that's on " up high in the rim " while the rim is lying on the ground. I put something under the tire so it could not fall down in the rim . I forget what I use. This will give u more tire room to stretch over the rim. If you put something under the tire , just hold up one side , opposite of where u are trying to push the tire over the rim . after you start getting the second side over the rim , use a sledge hammer to slowly pound the tire on. Hit the tire close to the bead, right next to the rim . just don't hit the rim , lol. Amazing! I froze the rim for an hour, heated up the tire with hot water, there was still vasoline on the beads from yesterday so I pretty much just popped the tire right on after positioning it right. I oly needed to flip the bead over the rim in a couple spots, otherwise I was using my body weight to push it down with my knees on the tire and a bottle of water under the tire to keep it in position. Lol, its something how much easier it is after doing it that way. I remembered how hard it was to get the tires on the first time I bought tires , so I decided I'd see if freezing the rim would help. Its sounds sorta ridiculous placing the rim in the freezer , lol, but I guess it shrinks just enough to make the job a little easier. Actually the first time I bought tires , I couldn't get them on and had the moto shop do it for me . but last time I didn't want to pay the cash to have them put on so I tried that. And it worked ! |
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on May 29, 2015 2:14:29 GMT -5
From the chart , I'd say the A13 destroys them all !! I mean look at that curve, I bet down hill you'd be able to hit at least 20mph !
|
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on May 29, 2015 1:51:54 GMT -5
Wow , its funny , I just read were someone shimmed the stock spring with a 1/4 inch shim ! Lol. 1/4 inch is way to much. He lost a good bit of top end " I wonder why ?,lol " I'm really thinking this will work! I wish I would have thought of this before ordering the 1000 main spring , lol.
|
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on May 29, 2015 1:43:39 GMT -5
Well I cannot sleep so I'm up thinking of ways to get my CVT tuned before my 1000 main spring comes in. Since my stock spring is opening slightly too soon , I beleive I found a way to fix that. If I buy a washer to place between the main spring and the clutch pad assembly, I believe it may stiffen up enough so my clutch pulley stays closed just long enough for me to reach 7500 rpms, and still end up opening fully. I can buy a big enough washer that is about 1mm or so thick , or possibly buy 2 of them just in case 1 is not enough. Anyone think this is a good or bad idea ?
|
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on May 29, 2015 0:49:50 GMT -5
I see , it was the Yamaha with the efi . I like to see others with great results with just a 58.5 kit.
|
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on May 29, 2015 0:42:54 GMT -5
@dmartin did you get before and after numbers, such as RPMs at low, cruising, and high speeds, and of course during acceleration? Was it a significant enough difference to need to change the CVT weights or springs? Do you mostly get more torque, mid-range acceleration, or top end? I plan on upgrading my 150cc one component at a time, including BBK, head, intake and exhaust, and sliders to dial it all in. I'm thinking of doing just the 4 valve head first, with uni intake and some exhaust modifications, then do the BBK later, and tune the CVT with sliders each time if necessary. Sorry for the late reply. No, I didn't get before and after numbers...I pretty much know what the stock numbers are. I've only taken this new engine out for a few short test runs.... This 4 valve head is taller than the stock head and in addition, the exhaust flange is at a different angle which causes the muffler to both, hit the frame on bumps and stick out about a foot past where it normally rides.... Taida makes a 4 valve muffler, I'm waiting for it to arrive in the mail... I was going to take this myffler and have it bent, but decided against it cause I need the muffler for when I test other engines.... This is what I can tell you... On dirt, with my feet on the floorboard, I can goose the throttle and literally peel out.... On one of my test rides, I hit 67 MPH and still had a couple 1000 RPM's left. It does not slow down on hills..... I'm using the stock gears and they are for sure limiting me... I'm expecting 70, maybe even 75MPH top end with the right gears..... And remember, this is a no bore upgrade... I only went up to a 155cc (58.5mm). I also have a Taida 232cc that's 4 valve. But you have to remember, this is a brand new engine and It's still in the break in period. I haven't really got into it yet... Not to mention, I have about 10 builds going on right now.... I will update you guys more with better results with some time..... My initial performance assessment is for $$$ it cost, it's well worth it. I will put my 58.5mm 4 valve, against any other 58.5mm 2 valve out there. Did you say you have the efi on the scoot also ? Is that with the 58.5 ? The efi makes a big difference also . at the same time , I try to express that you really don't need to go that big when it comes to a big bore kit to reach the 65mph range . even without efi. Im really impressed with the 58.5 kit that I have. I know I've said this before , but I know of many with bigger kits that do not have the top end I have. I can say its because of this or that , but unless I actually went through and did whole load of tests I really don't know the actually reason for this. I also have no clue what cam I'm using ! I wish I did. The cam I am using makes a night and day difference in performance from the stock cams . funny thing is that the stock cam that can with my scoot and the stock cam that can with the new engine are noticeably different " lobe height" which was kind of strange. |
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on May 29, 2015 0:31:36 GMT -5
dmartin95 , sorry man these terms got me confused too. What I meant I am going with the big bore kit ncy 61mm where ad my friends won't upgrade ccs at all. Why am I goin with A14 well that is tough to explain as I made my decision based from what I read online if it is all true. Anyway from what I read the A14 performs best on hand ported heads and also it makes its power from 6500 rpm too abot 8k rpm and peak power is at 7500 rpm. Since I do not plan to go much higher rpm then 7700 rpm i figure it would work for me, but really I don't know. Supposedly the other type of cams like a9 make peak power at 8500 rpm. TBA , it sems that with most cams the scoot should still have top power near 7500 rpms , at least that's what everyone , even the mods seem to suggest . I would imagine when we go with a bigger bore and all the other mods , that the power bands would slightly change , bit I don't think anyone has any real numbers on what they would be . especially with all the different configurations there are . |
|
